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D. H. Peregrine

Bio: D. H. Peregrine is an academic researcher from University of Bristol. The author has contributed to research in topics: Breaking wave & Wave propagation. The author has an hindex of 31, co-authored 64 publications receiving 6420 citations.


Papers
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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the Boussinesq equations for long waves in water of varying depth are derived for small amplitude waves, but do include non-linear terms, and solutions have been calculated numerically for a solitary wave on a beach of uniform slope, which is also derived analytically by using the linearized long-wave equations.
Abstract: Equations of motion are derived for long waves in water of varying depth. The equations are for small amplitude waves, but do include non-linear terms. They correspond to the Boussinesq equations for water of constant depth. Solutions have been calculated numerically for a solitary wave on a beach of uniform slope. These solutions include a reflected wave, which is also derived analytically by using the linearized long-wave equations.

1,352 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the growth of an undular bore from a long wave is described, which forms a gentle transition between a uniform flow and still water, and a physical account of its development is followed by the results of numerical calculations.
Abstract: If a long wave of elevation travels in shallow water it steepens and forms a bore. The bore is undular if the change in surface elevation of the wave is less than 0·28 of the original depth of water. This paper describes the growth of an undular bore from a long wave which forms a gentle transition between a uniform flow and still water. A physical account of its development is followed by the results of numerical calculations. These use finite-difference approximations to the partial differential equations of motion. The equations of motion are of the same order of approximation as is necessary to derive the solitary wave. The results are in general agreement with the available experimental measurements.

961 citations

Book ChapterDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors discuss the varied physical circumstances in which interactions among water waves and currents occur and different mathematical approaches, relevant observations, and experiments that are applicable to all or some of these physical circumstances are described.
Abstract: Publisher Summary This chapter discusses the varied physical circumstances in which interactions among water waves and currents occur. Different mathematical approaches, relevant observations, and experiments that are applicable to all or some of these physical circumstances are described. The emphasis is on waves and their interaction with preexisting currents rather than on wave-generated currents. Common simplifying assumption is that the waves are of sufficiently small amplitude for the free-surface boundary conditions to be linearized and evaluated at, or close to, the mean free surface. Most progress can be made in this subject with such a constraint, but wherever possible, finite-amplitude effects are discussed. Unlike some other common forms of wave motion, water waves involve water motion varying with direction perpendicular to the space in which they propagate. The chapter concludes on the interaction of waves generated by a ship with the flow around it.

564 citations

Journal ArticleDOI

352 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a numerical solution is obtained to describe the behavior of a uniform bore over a sloping beach and the subsequent run-up and backwash, and the results exhibit features which have only previously been described in a qualitative manner.
Abstract: A numerical solution is obtained to describe the behaviour of a uniform bore over a sloping beach and the subsequent run-up and back-wash. The results exhibit features which have only previously been described in a qualitative manner. These include the formation’ of a landward-facing bore in the back-wash. A comprehensive set of results are presented for a typical initial subcritical bore height ratio.

324 citations


Cited by
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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated.
Abstract: A third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated. The model is based on a Eulerian formulation of the discrete spectral balance of action density that accounts for refractive propagation over arbitrary bathymetry and current fields. It is driven by boundary conditions and local winds. As in other third-generation wave models, the processes of wind generation, whitecapping, quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom dissipation are represented explicitly. In SWAN, triad wave-wave interactions and depth-induced wave breaking are added. In contrast to other third-generation wave models, the numerical propagation scheme is implicit, which implies that the computations are more economic in shallow water. The model results agree well with analytical solutions, laboratory observations, and (generalized) field observations.

3,625 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: To the best of our knowledge, there is only one application of mathematical modelling to face recognition as mentioned in this paper, and it is a face recognition problem that scarcely clamoured for attention before the computer age but, having surfaced, has attracted the attention of some fine minds.
Abstract: to be done in this area. Face recognition is a problem that scarcely clamoured for attention before the computer age but, having surfaced, has involved a wide range of techniques and has attracted the attention of some fine minds (David Mumford was a Fields Medallist in 1974). This singular application of mathematical modelling to a messy applied problem of obvious utility and importance but with no unique solution is a pretty one to share with students: perhaps, returning to the source of our opening quotation, we may invert Duncan's earlier observation, 'There is an art to find the mind's construction in the face!'.

3,015 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a systematic method is developed which allows one to identify certain important classes of evolution equations which can be solved by the method of inverse scattering, where the form of each evolution equation is characterized by the dispersion relation of its associated linearized version and an integro-differential operator.
Abstract: A systematic method is developed which allows one to identify certain important classes of evolution equations which can be solved by the method of inverse scattering The form of each evolution equation is characterized by the dispersion relation of its associated linearized version and an integro-differential operator A comprehensive presentation of the inverse scattering method is given and general features of the solution are discussed The relationship of the scattering theory and Backlund transformations is brought out In view of the role of the dispersion relation, the comparatively simple asymptotic states, and the similarity of the method itself to Fourier transforms, this theory can be considered a natural extension of Fourier analysis to nonlinear problems

2,746 citations

Book
24 Feb 2012
TL;DR: This book is a tutorial written by researchers and developers behind the FEniCS Project and explores an advanced, expressive approach to the development of mathematical software.
Abstract: This book is a tutorial written by researchers and developers behind the FEniCS Project and explores an advanced, expressive approach to the development of mathematical software. The presentation spans mathematical background, software design and the use of FEniCS in applications. Theoretical aspects are complemented with computer code which is available as free/open source software. The book begins with a special introductory tutorial for beginners. Followingare chapters in Part I addressing fundamental aspects of the approach to automating the creation of finite element solvers. Chapters in Part II address the design and implementation of the FEnicS software. Chapters in Part III present the application of FEniCS to a wide range of applications, including fluid flow, solid mechanics, electromagnetics and geophysics.

2,372 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors consider the formation of droplet clouds or sprays that subsequently burn in combustion chambers, which is caused by interfacial instabilities, such as the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability.
Abstract: The numerical simulation of flows with interfaces and free-surface flows is a vast topic, with applications to domains as varied as environment, geophysics, engineering, and fundamental physics. In engineering, as well as in other disciplines, the study of liquid-gas interfaces is important in combustion problems with liquid and gas reagents. The formation of droplet clouds or sprays that subsequently burn in combustion chambers originates in interfacial instabilities, such as the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability. What can numerical simulations do to improve our understanding of these phenomena? The limitations of numerical techniques make it impossible to consider more than a few droplets or bubbles. They also force us to stay at low Reynolds or Weber numbers, which prevent us from finding a direct solution to the breakup problem. However, these methods are potentially important. First, the continuous improvement of computational power (or, what amounts to the same, the drop in megaflop price) continuously extends the range of affordable problems. Second, and more importantly, the phenomena we consider often happen on scales of space and time where experimental visualization is difficult or impossible. In such cases, numerical simulation may be a useful prod to the intuition of the physicist, the engineer, or the mathematician. A typical example of interfacial flow is the collision between two liquid droplets. Finding the flow involves the study not only of hydrodynamic fields in the air and water phases but also of the air-water interface. This latter part

1,949 citations