Evolution of Design Method Against Random Waves Statistical Properties and Spectral of Sea Waves Transformation and Deformation of Random Sea Waves Design of Breakwaters Design of Coastal Dikes and Seawalls Probabilistic Design of Harbor Facilities Harbor Tranquility and Vessel Mooring Hydraulic Model Tests with Random Waves Theoretical Description of Random Sea Waves Statistical Theory of Irregular Waves Techniques of Random Wave Analysis 2D Computation of Wave Transformation with Random Breaking and Nearshore Currents Statistical Analysis of Extreme Waves Prediction and Control of Beach Deformation Processes.

Random seas and design of maritime structures

▪ Abstract The more violent impacts of water waves on walls create velocities and pressures having magnitudes much larger than those associated with the propagation of ordinary waves under gravity. Insight into these effects has been gained by irrotational-flow computations and by investigating the role of entrained and trapped air in wave impacts. This review focuses on the results of theoretical work, making particular note of the value of considering pressure impulse, and highlights the aspects that are poorly understood.

Water-wave impact on walls

Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives

Modified Moving Particle Semi-implicit methods for the prediction of 2D wave impact pressure

Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 1: Results from large-scale regular wave tests on vertical and sloping walls

The influence of air and scale on wave impact pressures

When an ocean wave breaks against a steep-fronted breakwater, sea wall or a similar marine structure, its impact on the structure can be very violent. This paper describes the theoretical studies that, together with field and laboratory investigations, have been carried out in order to gain a better understanding of the processes involved. The wave's approach towards a structure is modelled with classical irrotational flow to obtain the different types of impact profiles that may or may not lead to air entrapment. The subsequent impact is modelled with a novel compressible-flow model for a homogeneous mixture of incompressible liquid and ideal gas. This enables a numerical description of both trapped air pockets and the propagation of pressure shock waves through the aerated water. An exact Riemann solver is developed to permit a finite-volume solution to the flow model with smallest possible local error.The high pressures measured during wave impacts on a breakwater are reproduced and it is shown that trapped air can be compressed to a pressure of several atmospheres. Pressure shock waves, reflected off nearby surfaces such as the seabed, can lead to pressures comparable with those of the impact. Typical examples of pressure-time histories, force and impulse are presented and discussed in terms of their practical implications. The numerical model proposed is relevant for a variety of flows where air effects are important. Further applications, including extended studies of wave impacts, are discussed.

Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 2: Modelling the effect of air

Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

The effects of scale and aeration on violent breaking wave impacts with trapped and entrained air are investigated both analytically and numerically. By dimensional analysis we show that the impact pressures for Froude scaled conditions prior to the impact depend on the scale and aeration level. The Bagnold–Mitsuyasu scaling law for the compression of an air pocket by a piston of incompressible water is rederived and generalised to 3D air pockets of arbitrary shape. Numerical results for wall pressure, force and impulse are then presented for a flip-through impact, a low-aeration impact and a high-aeration impact, for nine scales and five levels of initial aeration. Two of these impact types trap a pocket of air at the wall. Among the findings of the paper is that for fixed initial aeration, impact pressures from the flip-through impact broadly follow Froude scaling. This is also the case for the two impact types with trapped air pockets for impact pressures below 318 kPa, while impact pressures above this value broadly follow the Bagnold–Mitsuyasu scaling law with full-scale pressures greater than those predicted by the Froude law. For all impact types, the effect of aeration is found to reduce the maximum impact pressure, maximum force and impulse. Good agreement with the asymptotic model of Peregrine & Thais (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 325, 1996, pp. 377–397) is found for the flip-through impact pressure and a fair agreement is found for the low- and high-aeration impacts. Based on the numerical results, a modified scaling curve that combines Froude scaling and the Bagnold–Mitsuyasu law is suggested. The practical implications of the findings are discussed and attention is drawn to the limitations of physical model tests.

G. N. Bullock

Papers

Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 1: Results from large-scale regular wave tests on vertical and sloping walls

The influence of air and scale on wave impact pressures

Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 2: Modelling the effect of air

Breakpoint generated surf beat induced by bichromatic wave groups

Violent breaking wave impacts. Part 3. Effects of scale and aeration