Author
J.C.W. Berkhoff
Bio: J.C.W. Berkhoff is an academic researcher. The author has contributed to research in topics: Mild-slope equation & Diffraction. The author has an hindex of 1, co-authored 1 publications receiving 732 citations.
Papers
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29 Jan 1972
TL;DR: In this paper, the derivation of a two-dimensional differential equation, which describes the phenomenon of combined refraction - diffraction for simple harmonic waves, and a method of solving this equation is presented.
Abstract: This paper treats the derivation of a two-dimensional differential equation, which describes the
phenomenon of combined refraction - diffraction for simple harmonic waves, and a method of solving this
equation The equation is derived with the aid of a small parameter development, and the method of
solution is based on the finite element technique, together with a source distribution method
756 citations
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TL;DR: In this article, a third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated.
Abstract: A third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated. The model is based on a Eulerian formulation of the discrete spectral balance of action density that accounts for refractive propagation over arbitrary bathymetry and current fields. It is driven by boundary conditions and local winds. As in other third-generation wave models, the processes of wind generation, whitecapping, quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom dissipation are represented explicitly. In SWAN, triad wave-wave interactions and depth-induced wave breaking are added. In contrast to other third-generation wave models, the numerical propagation scheme is implicit, which implies that the computations are more economic in shallow water. The model results agree well with analytical solutions, laboratory observations, and (generalized) field observations.
3,625 citations
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TL;DR: In this article, a parabolic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy.
Abstract: A parabolic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. The coefficient of the dissipation term is related to a number of dissipative models. Wave calculations are performed for a localized area of dissipation, based on a friction model for a spatial distribution of rigid vertical cylinders. The region of localized dissipation creates a shadow region of low wave energy, which may have important implications for the response of neighboring shore lines.
484 citations
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Swinburne University of Technology1, University of New South Wales2, National Technical University of Athens3, University of Miami4, Naval Postgraduate School5, United States Naval Research Laboratory6, European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts7, Delft University of Technology8, Arctic and Antarctic Research Institute9, Katholieke Universiteit Leuven10, University of Turin11, Engineer Research and Development Center12, University of Florida13, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration14
TL;DR: This paper tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems the authors presently face.
469 citations
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TL;DR: In this article, the wave problem is introduced and a derivation of Berkhoff's surface wave theory is outlined, and appropriate boundary conditions are described, for finite and infinite boundaries.
Abstract: The wave problem is introduced and a derivation of Berkhoff's surface wave theory is outlined. Appropriate boundary conditions are described, for finite and infinite boundaries. These equations are then presented in a variational form, which is used as a basis for finite and infinite elements. The elements are used to solve a wide range of unbounded surface wave problems. Comparisons are given with other methods. It is concluded that infinite elements are a competitive method for the solution of such problems.
428 citations
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TL;DR: In this paper, a parabolic approximation to the reduced wave equation was proposed for the propagation of periodic surface waves in shoaling water. The approximation is derived from splitting the wave field into transmitted and reflected components.
Abstract: A parabolic approximation to the reduced wave equation is investigated for the propagation of periodic surface waves in shoaling water. The approximation is derived from splitting the wave field into transmitted and reflected components.In the case of an area with straight and parallel bottom contour lines, the asymptotic form of the solution for high frequencies is compared with the geometrical optics approximation.Two numerical solution techniques are applied to the propagation of an incident plane wave over a circular shoal.
348 citations