Kaikanani Woollings

Bio: Kaikanani Woollings is an academic researcher from University of Calgary. The author has contributed to research in topics: Injury prevention & Climbing injuries. The author has an hindex of 4, co-authored 6 publications receiving 112 citations. Previous affiliations of Kaikanani Woollings include University of Alberta.

Risk factors for injury in sport climbing and bouldering: a systematic review of the literature

Abstract: Background Rock climbing is an increasingly popular sport worldwide, as a recreational activity and a competitive sport. Several disciplines including sport climbing and bouldering have developed, each employing specific movements and techniques, leading to specific injuries. Objective To examine risk factors and prevention measures for injury in sport climbing and bouldering, and to assess the methodological quality of existing studies. Methods 12 electronic databases and several other sources were searched systematically using predetermined inclusion and exclusion criteria. Eligible articles were peer-reviewed, based on primary research using original data; outcome measures included injury, morbidity or mortality in rock climbing, and included one or more potential risk factor or injury prevention strategy. Two independent reviewers assessed the methodology of research in each study using the Downs and Black Quality Index. The data extracted is summarised, and appraisals of the articles are presented with respect to the quality of evidence presented. Results 19 studies met the inclusion criteria, and introduced 35 possible risk factors or injury prevention measures in climbing. Age, increasing years of climbing experience, highest climbing grade achieved (skill level), high climbing intensity score (CIS) and participating in lead climbing are potential risk factors. Results regarding injury prevention measures remain inconclusive. Discussion This field is relatively new and, as such, the data are not as robust as for more established sports with a larger research foundation. The key need is establishing modifiable risk factors using prospective studies and high quality methodology, such that injury prevention strategies can be developed. The CIS may be a useful measure in this field of research.

Incidence, mechanism and risk factors for injury in youth rock climbers

Abstract: Background Rock-climbing participation has grown globally in recent years, and the sport was officially recognised by the International Olympic Committee in 2010. The epidemiology of climbing injuries in adults has been examined, but few studies have investigated injury in youth climbers. Objective To examine the incidence, mechanisms and risk factors for injury in recreational and elite sport climbers and boulderers aged 11–19 years. Study design Cross-sectional. Methods Youth (n=116) were recruited from climbing facilities across Alberta, Canada. Participants completed an anonymous questionnaire from October 2012 to March 2013. Climbing injury incidence proportions and incidence rates (IR) were calculated. ORs with corresponding 95% CIs were estimated for possible risk factors. Results The injury IR was 4.44 injuries/1000 climbing hours (95% CI 3.74 to 5.23). Sprains (27%) and strains (26%) were the predominant injury types, and repetitive overuse was the primary mechanism of injury (42%). Hands and fingers were the most commonly injured locations (21%). Exploratory analyses showed three risk factors for injury: older age (15–19 vs 11–14 years; OR=11.30, 95% CI 2.33 to 54.85), injury in a sport other than climbing (OR=6.46, 95% CI 1.62 to 25.68) and preventive taping (OR=5.09, 95% CI 1.44 to 18.02). Conclusions Injury risk is high in youth climbers. Findings are consistent with the reported rates, types and mechanisms in adults. Modifiable risk factors warrant further investigation to inform the development of injury prevention strategies, targeting high-risk climbers including adolescents and those with previous injury.

Pediatric and adolescent injury in rock climbing

Abstract: Rock climbing is a fast-growing sport performed by athletes in all age groups, especially youths. While epidemiological data are available for injuries in adults, these data are lacking for young climbers. The current literature shows it being a comparably safe activity, mostly in indoor and sport climbing. Age related self-responsibility is necessary under guided supervision by an adult. Injuries are mostly related to a fall (e.g. alpine environment) or overstrain. Epiphyseal stress fractures of the fingers are a major concern, especially during the pubertal growth spurt. A critical evaluation of finger pain in young climbers as well as a neglect of certain training exercises is crucial. Suggestions for injury prevention and further research are provided.

Concussion Burden, Recovery, and Risk Factors in Elite Youth Ice Hockey Players.

Abstract: OBJECTIVE: To examine rates of concussion and more severe concussion (time loss of greater than 10 days) in elite 13- to 17-year-old ice hockey players. METHODS: This is a prospective cohort study (Alberta, Canada). Bantam (13-14 years) and Midget (15-17 years) male and female elite (top 20% by division of play) youth ice hockey players participated in this study. Players completed a demographic and medical history questionnaire and clinical test battery at the beginning of the season. A previously validated injury surveillance system was used to document exposure hours and injury during one season of play (8 months). Players with a suspected ice hockey-related concussion were referred to the study sport medicine physicians for assessment. Time loss from hockey participation was documented on an injury report form. RESULTS: Overall, 778 elite youth ice hockey players (659 males and 119 females; aged 13-17 years) participated in this study. In total, 143 concussions were reported. The concussion incidence rate (IR) was 17.60 concussions/100 players (95% CI, 15.09-20.44). The concussion IR was 1.31 concussions/1000 player-hours (95% CI, 1.09-1.57). Time loss of greater than 10 days was reported in 74% of cases (106/143), and 20% (n = 28) had time loss of greater than 30 days. CONCLUSIONS: Concussion is a common injury in elite youth ice hockey players. In this study population, a large proportion of concussions (74%) resulted in a time loss of greater than 10 days, possibly reflecting more conservative management or longer recovery in youth athletes.

Concussion rates and recovery in elite youth ice hockey players

Abstract: Objective To examine rates of concussion and severe concussion (time loss greater than 10 days) in elite youth ice hockey players. Design Prospective cohort study Setting Alberta, Canada Participants Bantam (13–14 years) and Midget (15–17 years) male and female elite (top 30% by division of play) youth ice hockey players. Assessment of risk factors Participants completed a demographic and medical history questionnaire and clinical test battery at the beginning of the season. A previously validated injury surveillance system was used to document exposure hours and injury during one season of play (8 months). Outcome measures Players with a suspected ice hockey-related concussion were referred to the study sport medicine physicians for assessment. Time loss from hockey participation was documented on an injury report form. Main results Overall, 778 elite youth ice hockey players (659 males, 119 females; aged 13–17 years) participated in this study. In total, 143 concussions occurred. The concussion incidence proportion (IP) was 18 concussions/100 players. The concussion incidence rate (IR) was 1.31 concussions/1000 player-hours (95% CI; 1.09, 1.57). Time loss greater than 10 days was reported in 74% of cases (106/143) and 20% (n=28) had time loss of greater than 30 days. Conclusions Concussion is a common injury in elite youth ice hockey players. In this study population, a large proportion of concussions (74%) resulted in a time loss of greater than 10 days, possibly reflecting more conservative management or longer recovery in youth athletes. Competing interests None.

Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association position statement

Abstract: The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers’ characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to...

A Systematic Review of the Association Between Physical Fitness and Musculoskeletal Injury Risk: Part 1-Cardiorespiratory Endurance.

Abstract: Musculoskeletal injuries (MSK-Is) are a significant health problem for both military and athletic populations. Research indicates that MSK-I is associated with physical fitness; however, the association between specific components of physical fitness and MSK-I in military and athletic populations has not been systematically examined. Our goal was to systematically review the literature to provide a best evidence synthesis on the relationship between components of physical fitness and MSK-I risk in military and civilian athletic populations. This first of 3 manuscripts focuses on cardiorespiratory endurance (CRE). MEDLINE, EBSCO, EMBASE, and the Defense Technical Information Center were searched for original studies published from 1970 through 2015 that examined associations between physical fitness and MSK-I. Forty-nine of 4,229 citations met our inclusion criteria. Primary findings indicate that there is (a) strong evidence that poor performance on a set distance run for time is a predictor for MSK-I risk in both genders; (b) strong evidence that poor performance on timed shuttle runs is a predictor for MSK-I risk in males; (c) moderate evidence in males and limited evidence in females that poor performance on a timed step test is a predictor of MSK-I risk; and (d) limited or insufficient evidence that poor performance on the Cooper run test, maximal and submaximal aerobic graded exercise tests, and the Conconi test are predictors of MSK-I risk in males or females or both. Several measures of CRE are risk factors for training-related MSK-I in military and civilian athletic populations, indicating that CRE may be an important measure for MSK-I risk stratification.

Pediatric and adolescent injury in rock climbing

Abstract: Rock climbing is a fast-growing sport performed by athletes in all age groups, especially youths. While epidemiological data are available for injuries in adults, these data are lacking for young climbers. The current literature shows it being a comparably safe activity, mostly in indoor and sport climbing. Age related self-responsibility is necessary under guided supervision by an adult. Injuries are mostly related to a fall (e.g. alpine environment) or overstrain. Epiphyseal stress fractures of the fingers are a major concern, especially during the pubertal growth spurt. A critical evaluation of finger pain in young climbers as well as a neglect of certain training exercises is crucial. Suggestions for injury prevention and further research are provided.