scispace - formally typeset
Search or ask a question
Author

Masataka Yamaguchi

Bio: Masataka Yamaguchi is an academic researcher from Kyoto University. The author has contributed to research in topics: Mechanical wave & Wave shoaling. The author has an hindex of 4, co-authored 9 publications receiving 39 citations.

Papers
More filters
Proceedings ArticleDOI
29 Jan 1970
TL;DR: In this article, the validity and limiting condition for the application of the finite amplitude standing wave theories by the perturbation method was discussed. But the authors did not consider the effect of perturbations on the wave pressure on a vertical wall by standing waves.
Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to make clear the validity and limiting condition for the application of the finite amplitude standing wave theories by the perturbation method In a numerical example, the errors of each order solution of these theories for two non-linear free surface conditions are computed for various kinds of wave characteristics and compared with each other Some experiments on the wave pressure on a vertical wall by standing waves were carried out and a plot of the limiting condition for the application of these theories is proposed based on the comparison with theoretical curves In addition, as an example of the application of these theories, the change of characteristics of wave pressure of standing waves accompanying the overtopping wave on a vertical wall is discussed.

5 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
29 Jan 1972
TL;DR: In this article, the authors measured horizontal and vertical water particle velocities induced by regular waves, wind waves generated by a wind wave tank and ocean waves in shallow water using a Doppler-type sonic current meter.
Abstract: Measurements of horizontal and vertical water particle velocities induced by regular waves, wind waves generated by a wind wave tank and ocean waves in shallow water were made using a Doppler-type sonic current meter. For regular waves, the validity of wave theories such as Stokes and cnoidal waves is investigated by comparison between theoretical curves and the experimental results. For wind waves and ocean waves, power spectra of water particle velocities and cross-correlations between surface displacement and water particle velocity are considered, especially in the latter case, directional spectra calculated from both the records are compared each other.

4 citations


Cited by
More filters
Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, an alternative Stokes theory for steady waves in water of constant depth is presented where the expansion parameter is the wave steepness itself, and the first step in application requires the solution of one nonlinear equation, rather than two or three simultaneously as has been previously necessary.
Abstract: An alternative Stokes theory for steady waves in water of constant depth is presented where the expansion parameter is the wave steepness itself. The first step in application requires the solution of one nonlinear equation, rather than two or three simultaneously as has been previously necessary. In addition to the usually specified design parameters of wave height, period and water depth, it is also necessary to specify the current or mass flux to apply any steady wave theory. The reason being that the waves almost always travel on some finite current and the apparent wave period is actually a Dopplershifted period. Most previous theories have ignored this, and their application has been indefinite, if not wrong, at first order. A numerical method for testing theoretical results is proposed, which shows that two existing theories are wrong at fifth order, while the present theory and that of Chappelear are correct. Comparisons with experiments and accurate numerical results show that the present theory ...

488 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
Bernard Molin1
TL;DR: In this paper, a non-linear theory is presented to derive second-order waveloads, in terms of the wave-steepness, which makes the solution valid for all range of wave frequencies.

223 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present convincing evidence of the fact that the value of 0.55 is the largest wave height to water depth ratio realizable for stable, shallow water oscillatory waves propagating in water of constant depth (horizontal bed).

135 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors give a model for the force exerted on vertical walls by the reflection of water waves with an arbitrary angle of incidence, and show that the maximum force per unit length can be caused by obliquely-incident waves rather than standing waves.
Abstract: Formulae are given for the force exerted on vertical walls: by the reflection of water waves with an arbitrary angle of incidence. The variation of the loads with all design variables show a number of unusual features, including the fact that the maximum force per unit length can be caused by obliquely-incident waves rather than standing waves. It is important for design that the whole range of possible wave conditions be considered. A method is developed for the numerical solution of the problem, which unlike the theory on which the above-mentioned formulae are based, solves the stated problem exactly. Results from the approximate formulae are compared with those from the numerical method, and are found to be surprisingly accurate over a wide range of wave conditions.

55 citations