P
P.B. Smit
Researcher at Delft University of Technology
Publications - 39
Citations - 1431
P.B. Smit is an academic researcher from Delft University of Technology. The author has contributed to research in topics: Breaking wave & Wind wave. The author has an hindex of 12, co-authored 36 publications receiving 1106 citations.
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SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters
TL;DR: In this article, a computational procedure has been developed for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface, rotational flows in one and two horizontal dimensions using SWASH.
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Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model
TL;DR: In this article, the authors assume a hydrostatic pressure distribution at the front of a breaking wave, which ensures that the wave front develops a vertical face and conserves mass and momentum.
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Non-hydrostatic modeling of surf zone wave dynamics
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors compare simulations with SWASH to flume observations of random, unidirectional waves, incident on a 1:30 planar beach, and show that the model accurately predicts second-order bulk parameters such as wave height and period, the details of the spectral evolution, and higher-order statistics, such as skewness and asymmetry of the waves.
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Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves under laboratory conditions
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors compared the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH with flume observations of infragravity waves propagating over a plane slope and a barred beach, and found that the predicted bulk wave parameters, such as wave height and mean wave period, were in good agreement with the observations.
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Nonlinear infragravity–wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach
TL;DR: In this article, a high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies.