http://basin.earth.ncu.edu.tw/download/courses/seminar_MSc/2012/1018_1_1.pdf

Marine hyperpycnal flows: initiation, behavior and related deposits. A review

Instruments for particle size and settling velocity observations in sediment transport

Advective flows rapidly transport water, solutes, and particles into and out of permeable sand beds and significantly affects the biogeochemistry of coastal environments. In this paper, we reviewed the drivers of porewater and groundwater advection in permeable shelf sediments in an attempt to bridge gaps among different disciplines studying similar problems. We identified the following driving forces: (1) terrestrial hydraulic gradients, (2) seasonal changes in the aquifer level on land moving the location of the subterranean estuary, (3) wave setup and tidal pumping, (4) water level differences across permeable barriers, (5) flow- and topography-induced pressure gradients, (6) wave pumping; (7) ripple and other bed form migration, (8) fluid shear, (9) density-driven convection, (10) bioirrigation and bioturbation, (11) gas bubble upwelling, and (12) sediment compaction. While these drivers occur over spatial scales ranging from mm to km, and temporal scales ranging from seconds to years, their ultimate biogeochemical implications are very similar (i.e., they are often a source of new or recycled nutrients to seawater and transform organic carbon into inorganic carbon). Drivers 2–12 result in no net water input into the ocean. Taking all these mechanisms into account, we conservatively estimate that a volume equivalent to that of the entire ocean is filtered by permeable sediments at time scales of about 3000 years. Quantifying the relative contribution of these drivers is essential to understand the contribution of sediments to the global cycles of matter.

The driving forces of porewater and groundwater flow in permeable coastal sediments: a review

Over the past two decades the application of acoustics to the measurement of small-scale sediment processes has been gaining increasing acceptance within the sedimentological community. This has arisen because acoustics has the potential to measure non-intrusively, with high temporal and spatial resolution, profiles of suspended sediment size and concentration, profiles of flow, and the bedform morphology. In the present article we review the capability of acoustics to deliver on its potentiality to make a valuable and unique contribution to the measurement of small-scale sediment processes. The article introduces the reasons for using acoustics, the physics underlying the approach, a series of examples illustrating collected data, a discussion on some of the difficulties encountered when applying acoustics and finally a look to the future and possible new developments.

/pdf/a-review-of-acoustic-measurement-of-small-scale-sediment-3bqxvluwn7.pdf

A review of acoustic measurement of small-scale sediment processes

[i] Numerical simulations of the Hudson River estuary using a terrain-following, three-dimensional model (Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS)) are compared with an extensive set of time series and spatially resolved measurements over a 43 day period with large variations in tidal forcing and river discharge. The model is particularly effective at reproducing the observed temporal variations in both the salinity and current structure, including tidal, spring neap, and river discharge-induced variability. Large observed variations in stratification between neap and spring tides are captured qualitatively and quantitatively by the model. The observed structure and variations of the longitudinal salinity gradient are also well reproduced. The most notable discrepancy between the model and the data is in the vertical salinity structure. While the surface-to-bottom salinity difference is well reproduced, the stratification in the model tends to extend all the way to the water surface, whereas the observations indicate a distinct pycnocline and a surface mixed layer. Because the southern boundary condition is located near the mouth the estuary, the salinity within the domain is particularly sensitive to the specification of salinity at the boundary. A boundary condition for the horizontal salinity gradient, based on the local value of salinity, is developed to incorporate physical processes beyond the open boundary not resolved by the model. Model results are sensitive to the specification of the bottom roughness length and vertical stability functions, insofar as they influence the intensity of vertical mixing. The results only varied slightly between different turbulence closure methods of k-e, k-ω, and k-kl.

/pdf/numerical-modeling-of-an-estuary-a-comprehensive-skill-19nixbo1kt.pdf

Numerical modeling of an estuary: A comprehensive skill assessment

Observations of cross-shelf sediment transport conducted in the winter of 1997–1998 as part of the STRATAFORM program reveal that gravitationally forced density flows of fluid mud trapped within the thin wave bottom boundary layer provide a mechanism for forming flood deposits on the Eel river continental shelf. The data from two moored tripods located on the 20 and 60 m isobaths combined with “rapid response” hydrographic surveys, indicate a process whereby the Eel River delivers sediment on to the inner shelf faster than dispersal and transport processes are able to move it offshore. The river does not deliver sediment beyond the inner shelf because the plume is trapped along the coast due to onshore surface flow associated with downwelling favorable winds. However, the final flood deposition region is located seaward of the 50-m isobath. Acoustic backscattering data taken on the 60-m isobath (in the historic flood deposit region) show two depositional events of 6 and 13 cm during a period of high river discharge and high waves in January of 1998. These depositional events are associated with fluid mud layers that scale in thickness with the wave boundary layer. Velocity profiles from a vertical array of current meters spanning the bottom 2 m of the water column show that the current meter closest to the seafloor has the largest offshore velocity during the depositional events, indicating an offshore flow of the fluid mud from the inner shelf to the flood deposit region. During periods of low concentration suspended sediment transport without fluid mud layers present, either no deposition or erosion was found indicating that the offshore flow of the fluid mud is the dominant depositional mechanism.

The role of wave-induced density-driven fluid mud flows for cross-shelf transport on the Eel River continental shelf

Observations of the temporal evolution of the geometric properties and migration of wave-formed ripples are analyzed in terms of measured suspended sand profiles and water velocity measurements. Six weeks of bedform observations were taken at the sandy (medium to coarse sized sand) LEO-15 site located on Beach Haven ridge during the late summer of 1995 with an autonomous rotary sidescan sonar. During this period, six tropical storms, several of hurricane strength, passed to the east of the study site. Ripples with wavelengths of up to 100 cm and with 15 cm amplitudes were observed. The predominant ripples were found to be wave orbital scale ripples with ripple wavelengths equal to 3/4 of the wave orbital diameter. Although orbital diameters become larger than 130 cm during the maximum wave event, it is unclear if a transition to non-orbital scaling is occurring. Ripple migration is found to be directed primarily onshore at rates of up to 80 cm/day. Suspended transport due to wave motions, calculated by multiplying acoustic backscatter measurements of suspended sand concentrations by flow velocity measurements, are unable to account for a sufficient amount of sand transport to force ripple migration and are in the opposite direction to ripple migration. Thus it is hypothesized that the onshore ripple migration is due to unobserved bedload transport or near-bottom suspended transport. Bedload model calculations forced with measured wave velocities are able to predict the magnitude and direction of transport consistent with observed ripple migration rates. Sequences of ripple pattern temporal evolution are examined showing mechanisms for ripple directional change in response to changing wave direction, as well as ripple wavelength adjustment and erosion due to changing wave orbital diameter and relative wave-to-current velocities.

https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1029/1998JC900026

Geometry, migration, and evolution of wave orbital ripples at LEO-15

Observations and modeling of wave-supported sediment gravity flows on the Po prodelta and comparison to prior observations from the Eel shelf

Several large floods of the Eel River in northern California occurred during 1997 and 1998, with peak discharge ranging from 4000 to 12,000 m 3  s −1 . The flood conditions persisted for 1–3 days and were usually accompanied by strong winds from the southern quadrant. The structure of the river plume was strongly influenced by the wind-forcing conditions. During periods of strong southerly (downwelling favorable) winds, the plume was confined inside the 50-m isobath, within about 7 km of shore, with northward velocities of 0.5–1 m s −1 . Occasional northerly (upwelling favorable) winds arrested the northward motion of the plume and caused it to spread across the shelf. Sediment transport by the plume was confined to the inner shelf (water depths less than 50 m), during both southerly and northerly wind conditions. During southerly wind periods, fine, unaggregated sediment was rapidly transported northward to at least 30 km from the river mouth, but flocculated sediment was deposited within 1–10 km of the river mouth. During northerly (upwelling-favorable) winds, most of the sediment fell out within 5 km of the mouth, and negligible sediment was carried offshore, even though the low-salinity plume extended beyond the 60-m isobath. Although sediment deposition from the plume is confined to the inner shelf, the stratigraphy indicates that the principal flood deposits on the adjacent continental shelf occur in a patch between the 60- and 90-m isobath. Thus, the deposition on the inner shelf is ephemeral, and some mechanism other than plume transport delivers the sediment from the inner shelf to the mid-shelf.

The structure of the Eel River plume during floods

The Hudson River estuary has a pronounced turbidity maximum zone, in which rapid, short-term deposition of sediment occurs during and following the spring freshet. Water-column measurements of currents and suspended sediment were performed during the spring of 1999 to determine the rate and mechanisms of sediment transport and trapping in the estuary. The net convergence of sediment in the lower estuary was approximately 300,000 tons, consistent with an estimate based on sediment cores. The major input of sediment from the watershed occurred during the spring freshet, as expected. Unexpected, however, was that an even larger quantity of sediment was transported landward into the estuary during the 3-mo observation period. The landward movement was largely accomplished by tidal pumping (i.e., the correlation between concentration and velocity at tidal frequencies) during spring tides, when the concentrations were 5 to 10 times higher than during neap tides. The landward flux is not consistent with the long-term sediment budget, which requires a seaward flux at the mouth to account for the excess input from the watershed relative to net accumulation. The anomalous, landward transport in 1999 occurred in part because the freshet was relatively weak, and the freshet occurred during neapetides when sediment resuspension was minimal. An extreme freshet occurred during 1998, which may have provided a repository of sediment just seaward of the mouth that re-entered the estuary in 1999. The amplitude of the spring freshet and its timing with respect to the spring-neap cycle cause large interannual variations in estuarine sediment flux. These variations can result in the remobilization of previously deposited sediment, the mass of which may exceed the annual inputs from the watershed.

Peter Traykovski

Papers

The role of wave-induced density-driven fluid mud flows for cross-shelf transport on the Eel River continental shelf

Geometry, migration, and evolution of wave orbital ripples at LEO-15

Observations and modeling of wave-supported sediment gravity flows on the Po prodelta and comparison to prior observations from the Eel shelf

The structure of the Eel River plume during floods

Sediment transport and trapping in the Hudson River estuary