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S. Buatois

Bio: S. Buatois is an academic researcher from University of Lorraine. The author has contributed to research in topics: Climbing & Poison control. The author has an hindex of 2, co-authored 2 publications receiving 9 citations.

Papers
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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: Both high level and elevated BMI may increase the demands to the hands and fingers leading to CRIH, and it is difficult to address as the climbers cannot recommend the climbers to climb easier routes and decrease their BMI below 20 kg/m2.
Abstract: This study aimed to investigate the protective mechanisms or risk factors that can be related to the occurrence of hand climbing-related injuries (CRIH ) CRIH (tendon, pulley, muscle, and joint injuries) were retrospectively screened in 528 adult climbers The questionnaire contained anthropometric items (eg, body mass index - BMI), as well as items regarding climbing and basic training activities (warm-up, cool-down and session durations, number of session per week, hydration, practice level, climbing surface, and duration of the cardiovascular training) Higher skilled climbers and climbers with BMI above 21 kg/m(2) were more likely to have experienced CRIH (P Language: en

7 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the protective mechanisms or risk factors that can be related to the occurrence of hand climbing-related injuries (CRIH) and found that higher skilled climbers and climbers with BMI above 21 kg/m(2) were more likely to have experienced CRIH.
Abstract: This study aimed to investigate the protective mechanisms or risk factors that can be related to the occurrence of hand climbing-related injuries (CRIH ). CRIH (tendon, pulley, muscle, and joint injuries) were retrospectively screened in 528 adult climbers. The questionnaire contained anthropometric items (e.g., body mass index - BMI), as well as items regarding climbing and basic training activities (warm-up, cool-down and session durations, number of session per week, hydration, practice level, climbing surface, and duration of the cardiovascular training). Higher skilled climbers and climbers with BMI above 21 kg/m(2) were more likely to have experienced CRIH (P Language: en

2 citations


Cited by
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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A critical evaluation of finger pain in young climbers as well as a neglect of certain training exercises is crucial, and Suggestions for injury prevention and further research are provided.
Abstract: Rock climbing is a fast-growing sport performed by athletes in all age groups, especially youths. While epidemiological data are available for injuries in adults, these data are lacking for young climbers. The current literature shows it being a comparably safe activity, mostly in indoor and sport climbing. Age related self-responsibility is necessary under guided supervision by an adult. Injuries are mostly related to a fall (e.g. alpine environment) or overstrain. Epiphyseal stress fractures of the fingers are a major concern, especially during the pubertal growth spurt. A critical evaluation of finger pain in young climbers as well as a neglect of certain training exercises is crucial. Suggestions for injury prevention and further research are provided.

40 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: There is so far little evidence on effective injury prevention measures in top athletes, and antidoping measures, in general, requiring further work, and an improved data situation regarding high-performance climbing athletes is crucial to ensure that the sport continues to be largely safe and injury-free.
Abstract: Climbing as a competition sport has become increasingly popular in recent years, particularly the sub-discipline of bouldering. The sport will debut in the Tokyo Summer Olympic Games. National and international competitions have three disciplines: lead (climbing with rope protection), bouldering (climbing at lower heights with mattress floor protection) and speed (maximum speed climbing on a standardised route in 1-on-1 mode). There is also a 'combined mode' of all three disciplines (combined) which forms the Olympic competition format; all competition formats are held on artificial walls. Existing literature describes a predominantly low injury frequency and severity in elite climbing. In comparison to climbing on real rock, artificial climbing walls have recently been associated with higher injury rates. Finger injuries such as tenosynovitis, pulley lesions and growth plate injuries are the most common injuries. As finger injuries are sport-specific, medical supervision of climbing athletes requires specific medical knowledge for diagnosis and treatment. There is so far little evidence on effective injury prevention measures in top athletes, and antidoping measures, in general, requiring further work in this field. An improved data situation regarding high-performance climbing athletes is crucial to ensure that the sport continues to be largely safe and injury-free and to prevent doping cases as extensively as possible.

19 citations

Journal Article
01 Jul 2016-Harefuah
TL;DR: The anatomy, biomechanics and the common hand injuries in rock climbers are described, potentially resulting in ligament and tendon sprains or rupture and even bone fracture.
Abstract: INTRODUCTION: Rock climbing, whether practiced in nature on cliffs and boulders or indoors on walls made of resin and wood, has gained tremendous popularity in recent decades More people are exposed to injuries associated with the unique biomechanical forces of rock climbing A series of repetitive high torque movements of the upper limbs are needed to ascend a wall or rockface These movements subject the hand and wrist to large forces, potentially resulting in ligament and tendon sprains or rupture and even bone fracture This review describes the anatomy, biomechanics and the common hand injuries in rock climbers Language: he

13 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: It is suggested that there is no need for maintaining a low BMI to be able to reach elite levels in climbing and that the average BMI of climbers up to the elite level is similar to that of a lower rate of performance.
Abstract: Objectives To assess possible associations between performance level (achieved level of difficulty), chronic injuries and body mass index (BMI) in sport climbing. Method Retrospective survey. Setting Web-based questionnaire. Participants 667 active climbers (385 reported having chronic injuries). Outcome measure BMI, performance level in sport climbing, onset of a climbing-related injury, preferred style of climbing, education, gender. Statistics Descriptive statistics and general linear model(GLM) performed with SPSS V.25 for windows. Result No associations were found between level of performance in sport climbing, onset of a climbing-related injury, preferred style of climbing, education, gender and BMI. Conclusion BMI is not associated with climbing-related chronic injury or level of performance in climbing. The average BMI of climbers up to the elite level is similar to that of a lower rate of performance. Clinical relevance The findings in this study suggest that there is no need for maintaining a low BMI to be able to reach elite levels in climbing.

10 citations

01 Jan 2017
TL;DR: In this paper, an estudio de tipo descriptivo transversal que busca relacionar aspectos de fuerza potencia and resistencia with the prevalencia of lesiones derivadas de escaladores de roca bogotanos was conducted.
Abstract: Este trabajo tuvo como objetivo establecer la relacion que existe entre la fuerza potencia y resistencia con la prevalencia de lesiones musculoesqueleticas en escaladores de roca bogotanos. Es un estudio de tipo descriptivo transversal que busca relacionar aspectos de fuerza potencia y resistencia con la prevalencia de lesiones derivadas de la practica deportiva de escalada en roca. Se conto con la participacion de 59 sujetos, los cuales cumplieron con los criterios para ser parte de la investigacion. Se aplicaron tests de potencia: para miembro superior se utilizo el test denominado UPLT (Upper Limb Power Test), medido y analizado por software Kinovea; para potencia del miembro inferior se realizaron las pruebas de Bosco CMJ (Counter Movement Jump) y SJ (Squat Jump) en la plataforma COBS; asimismo, se realizaron pruebas de fuerza resistencia para miembro superior (pull-ups o dominadas), y para miembro inferior flexo-extension en una pierna (Single Leg Test). Las pruebas fueron seleccionadas por su pertinencia segun gesto tecnico y fiabilidad. Se llevo a cabo una encuesta especifica para escaladores que logra determinar la prevalencia de lesion y establecer posibles relaciones entre estos aspectos. Estos fueron los resultados mas destacados: la lesion mas prevalente fue de mano (34%), seguida de hombro (21%), codo y rodilla (8%). Ademas, el sexo es una variable explicativa al tener en cuenta el IMC (p=0,0010) y el hecho de haber sufrido o no lesiones en los ultimos tres anos. Por ultimo, los siguientes factores son explicativos para la presencia de lesion y caracteristicos en los diferentes tipos de escalada independientemente del grado de dificultad: fuerza especifica en terminos de potencia de miembros superiores (p= 0.0009); potencia de miembros inferiores (p= 0.0312) y (p= 0.0382); fuerza resistencia de miembro superior (p= 0.0947), asi como la fuerza resistencia para pierna derecha (p= 0.0008) e izquierda (p= 0.0009). Por los resultados obtenidos en esta investigacion y los encontrados en las bases de datos, se concluye que faltan mas estudios sobre prevalencia de lesiones que expliquen usando factores como la fuerza potencia y resistencia de miembros superiores e inferiores en escaladores de roca.

3 citations