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Vincent Marieu

Bio: Vincent Marieu is an academic researcher from University of Bordeaux. The author has contributed to research in topics: Shore & Surf zone. The author has an hindex of 27, co-authored 113 publications receiving 2221 citations. Previous affiliations of Vincent Marieu include Centre national de la recherche scientifique.
Topics: Shore, Surf zone, Bathymetry, Foredune, Rip current


Papers
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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A detailed inspection of the 1500m-long bimonthly topographic surveys of Truc Vert beach shows that in early January 2014 the outstanding shore-normal incident storm swell "Hercules" with Hs and peak wave period Tp peaking at 9.6m and 22m, respectively, triggered the formation of a localized megacusp embayment with the erosion scarp height exceeding 6m in its centre where the dune retreat reached 30m as mentioned in this paper.

270 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
30 Apr 2010
TL;DR: In this paper, the meso-macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing was analyzed using hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images.
Abstract: Five weeks of hourly, 10-min time-exposure video images were used to analyze the meso–macro-tidal double-barred Truc Vert Beach, SW France, under intense wave forcing. The four storms experienced, one of which with an offshore significant wave height over 8 m, induced dramatic changes in the double sandbar system. The subtidal outer bar migrated offshore rapidly (up to 30–50 m/day) and its pre-existing crescentic pattern was wiped out. The seaward-protruding parts of the outer bar barely migrated offshore during the most intense storm, whereas a landward-protruding part was shed off. Over the entire study period, the outer-bar dynamics was dominated by alongshore-averaged changes rather than alongshore non-uniform changes, while the opposite was observed for the inner bar. In addition, the outer-bar dynamics was predominantly controlled by the time-varying offshore wave conditions, whereas the inner-bar dynamics was influenced largely by the tide-range variations. Our observations put forward the key role of morphological settings (the presence of a subtidal bar and its shape) and tidal range in governing inner-bar behaviour within a double sandbar dynamics, and provide strong support for previous suggestions that sandbars cannot be studied in isolation.

112 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a low-cost GoPro-equipped DJI Phantom 2 quadcopter and a 20 MPix camera-equipped drone were used to remotely sense the coastal dune morphology over large spatial scales.
Abstract: In this paper, coastal dune data are collected at Truc Vert, SW France, using photogrammetry via Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs). A low-cost GoPro-equipped DJI Phantom 2 quadcopter and a 20 MPix camera-equipped DJI Phantom 4 Pro quadcopter UAVs were used to remotely sense the coastal dune morphology over large spatial scales (4 km alongshore, i.e., approximately 1 km2 of beach-dune system), within a short time (less than 2 h of flight). The primary objective of this paper is to propose a low-cost and replicable approach which, combined with simple and efficient permanent Ground Control Point (GCP) set-up, can be applied to routinely survey upper beach and coastal dune morphological changes at high frequency (after each storm) and high resolution (0.1 m). Results show that a high-resolution and accurate Digital Surface Model (DSM) can be inferred with both UAVs if enough permanent GCPs are implemented. The more recent DJI Phantom 4 gives substantially more accurate DSM with a root-mean-square vertical error and bias of 0.05 m and −0.03 m, respectively, while the DSM inferred from the DJI Phantom 2 still largely meets the standard for coastal monitoring. The automatic flight plan procedure allows replicable surveys to address large-scale morphological evolution at high temporal resolution (e.g., weeks, months), providing unprecedented insight into the coastal dune evolution driven by marine and aeolian processes. The detailed morphological evolution of a 4-km section of beach-dune system is analyzed over a 6-month winter period, showing highly alongshore variable beach and incipient foredune wave-driven erosion, together with wind-driven inland migration of the established foredune by a few meters, and alongshore-variable sand deposition on the grey dune. In a context of widespread erosion, this photogrammetry approach via low-cost flexible and lightweight UAVs is well adapted for coastal research groups and coastal dune management stakeholders, including in developing countries where data are lacking.

106 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors quantified the nadir altimetry performance over a medium river (200m or lower wide) with a pluvio-nival regime in a temperate climate (the Garonne River, France).

99 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used long piston cores and high-resolution acoustic data from the northern Bay of Biscay for the first time to estimate the discharge of the English Channel palaeoriver at the end of the last glacial period (i.e. Weichselian).

96 citations


Cited by
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01 Jan 1981
TL;DR: It is suggested that the reproductive season of certain long—lived, patch—dependent species is moulded by the disturbance regime, and the necessary and vital connection between disturbance which generates spatial pattern and species richness in communities open to invasion is discussed.
Abstract: The mussel Mytilus californianus is a competitive dominant on wave—swept rocky intertidal shores. Mussel beds may exist as extensive monocultures; more often they are an everchanging mosaic of many species which inhabit wave—generated patches or gaps. This paper describes observations and experiments designed to measure the critical parameters of a model of patch birth and death, and to use the model to predict the spatial structure of mussel beds. Most measurements were made at Tatoosh Island, Washington, USA, from 1970—1979. Patch size ranged at birth from a single mussel to 38 m2; the distribution of patch sizes approximates the lognormal. Birth rates varied seasonally and regionally. At Tatoosh the rate of patch formation varied during six winters from 0.4—5.4% of the mussels removed per month. The disturbance regime during the summer and at two mainland sites was 5—10 times less. Annual disturbance patterns tended to be synchronous within 11 sites on one face of Tatoosh over a 10—yr interval, and over larger distances (16 km) along the coastline. The pattern was asynchronous, however, among four Tatoosh localities. Patch birth rate, and mean and maximum size at birth can be used as adequate indices of disturbance. Patch disappearance (death) occurs by three mechanisms. Very small patches disappear almost immediately due to a leaning response of the border mussels (0.2 cm/d). Intermediate—sized patches (<3.0 m2) are eventually obliterated by lateral movement of the peripheral mussels: estimates based on 94 experimental patches yield a mean shrinking rate of 0.05 cm/d from each of two principal dimensions. Depth of the adjacent mussel bed accounts for much of the local variation in closing rate. In very large patches, mussels must recruit as larvae from the plankton. Recovery begins at an average patch age of 26 mo; rate of space occupation, primarily due to individual growth, is 2.0—2.5%/mo. Winter birth rates suggest a mean turnover time (rotation period) for mussel beds varying from 8.1—34.7 yr, depending on the location. The minimal value is in close agreement with both observed and calculated minimal recovery times. Projections of total patch area, based on the model, are accurate to within 5% of the observed. Using a method for determining the age of patches, based on a growth curve of the barnacle Balanus cariosus, the model permits predictions of the age—size structure of the patch population. The model predicts with excellent resolution the distribution of patch area in relation to time since last disturbance. The most detailed models which include size structure within age categories are inconclusive due to small sample size. Predictions are food for large patches, the major determinants of environmental patterns, but cannot deal adequately with smaller patches because of stochastic effects. Colonization data are given in relation to patch age, size and intertidal position. We suggest that the reproductive season of certain long—lived, patch—dependent species is moulded by the disturbance regime. The necessary and vital connection between disturbance which generates spatial pattern and species richness in communities open to invasion is discussed.

1,082 citations

Dissertation
01 Jan 2002

570 citations

Journal Article
TL;DR: The nitrogen-isotope record preserved in Southern Ocean sediments, along with several geochemical tracers for the settling fluxes of biogenic matter, reveals patterns of past nutrient supply to phytoplankton and surface-water stratification in this oceanic region as mentioned in this paper.
Abstract: The nitrogen-isotope record preserved in Southern Ocean sediments, along with several geochemical tracers for the settling fluxes of biogenic matter, reveals patterns of past nutrient supply to phytoplankton and surface-water stratification in this oceanic region. Areal averaging of these spatial patterns indicates that reduction of the CO2 ‘leak’ from ocean to atmosphere by increased surface-water stratification south of the Polar Front made a greater contribution to the lowering of atmospheric CO2 concentration during the Last Glacial Maximum than did the increased export of organic carbon from surface to deep waters occurring further north.

484 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors reconstruct the demise of the British-Irish Ice Sheet (BIIS) and present palaeo-glaciological maps of retreat stages between 27 and 15 ka BP.

471 citations