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Volker Schöffl

Bio: Volker Schöffl is an academic researcher from University of Erlangen-Nuremberg. The author has contributed to research in topics: Climbing & Medicine. The author has an hindex of 31, co-authored 129 publications receiving 2623 citations. Previous affiliations of Volker Schöffl include Leeds Beckett University & University of Otago.


Papers
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TL;DR: Pulley injuries were the most frequent injuries in rock climbers, and whereas grade 1-3 injuries respond well to conservative treatment, grade 4 injuries require surgical repair.

148 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration as mentioned in this paper, and a position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014.
Abstract: The research base for rock climbing has expanded substantially in the past three decades as worldwide interest in the sport has grown. An important trigger for the increasing research attention has been the transition of the sport to a competitive as well as recreational activity and the potential inclusion of sport climbing in the Olympic schedule. The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) was formed in 2011 to bring together climbers, coaches and researchers to share knowledge and promote collaboration. This position statement was developed during and after the 2nd IRCRA Congress which was held in Pontresina, in September 2014. The aim of the position statement is to bring greater uniformity to the descriptive and statistical methods used in reporting rock climbing research findings. To date there is a wide variation in the information provided by researchers regarding the climbers’ characteristics and also in the approaches employed to convert from climbing grading scales to...

141 citations

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TL;DR: Based on injury data, climbers younger than 16 years should not participate in international bouldering competitions and intensive finger strength training is not recommended, and evidence-based recommendations were sought to inform the training of young climbers.
Abstract: Key questions regarding the training and physiological qualities required to produce an elite rock climber remain inadequately defined. Little research has been done on young climbers. The aim of this paper was to review literature on climbing alongside relevant literature characterising physiological adaptations in young athletes. Evidence-based recommendations were sought to inform the training of young climbers. Of 200 studies on climbing, 50 were selected as being appropriate to this review, and were interpreted alongside physiological studies highlighting specific common development growth variables in young climbers. Based on injury data, climbers younger than 16 years should not participate in international bouldering competitions and intensive finger strength training is not recommended. The majority of climbing foot injuries result from wearing too small or unnaturally shaped climbing shoes. Isometric and explosive strength improvements are strongly associated with the latter stages of sexual maturation and specific ontogenetic development, while improvement in motor abilities declines. Somatotyping that might identify common physical attributes in elite climbers of any age is incomplete. Accomplished adolescent climbers can now climb identical grades and compete against elite adult climbers aged up to and >40 years. High-intensity sports training requiring leanness in a youngster can result in altered and delayed pubertal and skeletal development, metabolic and neuroendocrine aberrations and trigger eating disorders. This should be sensitively and regularly monitored. Training should reflect efficacious exercises for a given sex and biological age.

113 citations

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TL;DR: The demographics of climbing-related injuries were evaluated to improve the comprehension of current injury characteristics, and male climbers were significantly older, had more climbing years, and were climbing at a higher climbing level.

110 citations

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TL;DR: Closed traumatic ruptures of finger flexor tendon pulleys began to be recognized specifically over the past several decades and are seen more commonly in rock climbers.
Abstract: Closed traumatic ruptures of finger flexor tendon pulleys began to be recognized specifically over the past several decades. This injury, although rare in the general population, is seen more commonly in rock climbers. This article analyzes this type of injury and the current diagnostic and therapeutic criteria. Ultrasound and magnetic resonance imaging are used to differentiate between a pulley strain, partial rupture, complete rupture, or multiple ruptures. Grade I to III injuries (strains, partial rupture, single ruptures) are treated conservatively with initial immobilization and early functional therapy under pulley protection. Grade IV injuries (multiple ruptures) require surgical repair.

104 citations


Cited by
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TL;DR: The studies summarized in this volume indicate many population groups have similar potentials for growth in major body dimensions, and the narrower range of means among European than among African groups that range from "tribal" to well-off indicates the range of variation in growth would be reduced greatly if the environmental circumstances allowed.
Abstract: This is a very large compilation of growth data with an extremely wide coverage of population groups, many of which will be completely unknown to all but the professional ethnographer. There is, however, a disappointingly narrow coverage of variables (length, weight, body widths, circumferences and proportions, skinfold thicknesses, and maturity). Many of the findings are relevant to an important question: should one set of growth reference data be used throughout the world, thus allowing ready comparability between groups, or should there be separate sets for each major racial group or even a multitude of local sets? The studies summarized in this volume indicate many population groups have similar potentials for growth in major body dimensions. For example, the narrower range of means among European than among African groups that range from "tribal" to well-off indicates the range of variation in growth would be reduced greatly if the environmental circumstances allowed

516 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The purpose of the current review is to highlight the structure‐function relationship of tendons and related structures to provide an overview for readers whose interest in tendons needs to be underpinned by anatomy.
Abstract: The purpose of the current review is to highlight the structure-function relationship of tendons and related structures to provide an overview for readers whose interest in tendons needs to be underpinned by anatomy. Because of the availability of several recent reviews on tendon development and entheses, the focus of the current work is primarily directed towards what can best be described as the ‘tendon proper’ or the ‘mid-substance’ of tendons. The review covers all levels of tendon structure from the molecular to the gross and deals both with the extracellular matrix and with tendon cells. The latter are often called ‘tenocytes’ and are increasingly recognized as a defined cell population that is functionally and phenotypically distinct from other fibroblast-like cells. This is illustrated by their response to different types of mechanical stress. However, it is not only tendon cells, but tendons as a whole that exhibit distinct structure-function relationships geared to the changing mechanical stresses to which they are subject. This aspect of tendon biology is considered in some detail. Attention is briefly directed to the blood and nerve supply of tendons, for this is an important issue that relates to the intrinsic healing capacity of tendons. Structures closely related to tendons (joint capsules, tendon sheaths, pulleys, retinacula, fat pads and bursae) are also covered and the concept of a ‘supertendon’ is introduced to describe a collection of tendons in which the function of the whole complex exceeds that of its individual members. Finally, attention is drawn to the important relationship between tendons and fascia, highlighted by Wood Jones in his concept of an ‘ectoskeleton’ over half a century ago – work that is often forgotten today.

391 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: Expanding the understanding of these pathways, the cross-talk between them and the activation of inflammatory mechanisms by intermittent hypoxia in OSAS will provide new avenues of therapeutic opportunity for the disease.
Abstract: There is increasing evidence that intermittent hypoxia plays a role in the development of cardiovascular risk in obstructive sleep apnoea syndrome (OSAS) through the activation of inflammatory pathways. The development of translational models of intermittent hypoxia has allowed investigation of its role in the activation of inflammatory mechanisms and promotion of cardiovascular disease in OSAS. There are noticeable differences in the response to intermittent hypoxia between body tissues but the hypoxia-sensitive transcription factors hypoxia-inducible factor-1 and nuclear factor-kappaB appear to play a key role in mediating the inflammatory and cardiovascular consequences of OSAS. Expanding our understanding of these pathways, the cross-talk between them and the activation of inflammatory mechanisms by intermittent hypoxia in OSAS will provide new avenues of therapeutic opportunity for the disease.

313 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A systematic review of the literature on the frequency and characteristics of sports related growth plate injuries affecting children and youth in organised sport found most physeal injuries appeared to resolve with treatment and rest.
Abstract: A systematic review of the literature on the frequency and characteristics of sports related growth plate injuries affecting children and youth in organised sport was carried out. Both acute and chronic physeal injuries related to participation in sports have been reported to occur, although injury incidence data are somewhat limited. Of particular concern is the growing number of stress related physeal injuries, including those affecting the lower extremities. Although most physeal injuries appeared to resolve with treatment and rest, there is also evidence of growth disturbance and deformity. Possible injury risk factors and countermeasures are discussed, and suggestions for directing future research provided.

311 citations