The fashion industry is facing increasing global scrutiny of its environmentally polluting supply chain operations. Despite the widely publicized environmental impacts, however, the industry continues to grow, in part due to the rise of fast fashion, which relies on cheap manufacturing, frequent consumption and short-lived garment use. In this Review, we identify the environmental impacts at critical points in the textile and fashion value chain, from production to consumption, focusing on water use, chemical pollution, CO2 emissions and textile waste. Impacts from the fashion industry include over 92 million tonnes of waste produced per year and 79 trillion litres of water consumed. On the basis of these environmental impacts, we outline the need for fundamental changes in the fashion business model, including a deceleration of manufacturing and the introduction of sustainable practices throughout the supply chain, as well a shift in consumer behaviour — namely, decreasing clothing purchases and increasing garment lifetimes. These changes stress the need for an urgent transition back to ‘slow’ fashion, minimizing and mitigating the detrimental environmental impacts, so as to improve the long-term sustainability of the fashion supply chain. The increase in clothing consumption, exemplified in fast fashion, has severe environmental consequences. This Review discusses the impacts of fashion on natural resources and the environment, and examines how technology, policy and consumer behaviour can mitigate the negative effects of the fashion industry.

The environmental price of fast fashion

Somatotyping—Development and Applications

This thesis examines zero-waste fashion design: design activity that results in zero-waste garments. Conventional design approaches waste approximately 15 per cent of the fabric used in the design and make of a cut and sew garment. The responsibility for this wastage belongs with manufacture, which is constrained by what has already been designed and pattern cut. The economic systems that underpin fashion design and manufacture are such that there is little economic incentive to be concerned with this wastage. An examination of the material and social investments embodied in fabrics alongside their environmental impacts, reveals that these investments are wasted in the wasted fabric.
The context of this study is contemporary fashion design within the ready-to-wear industry: fashion design that leads to the manufacturing of multiples of one design. The contextual review of this study examines different methods of fashion creation. Design ideation tools and the relationship between fashion design and pattern cutting in current industry provide the frame for design practice in this study, together with an analysis of historical and contemporary zero-waste and less-waste garments. Findings from the contextual review frame a series of briefs for design experiments. This study asks: What are the opportunities for creating zero-waste garments within contemporary menswear fashion design practice using cut and sew methods?
Fashion design practice is the primary research tool in this study. Design processes and their outcomes are documented in a journal, and the journals are transcribed and analysed. Successful strategies for zero-waste fashion design, emerging from the data, are presented. Pattern cutting emerges as integral to zero-waste fashion design. Zero-waste fashion design is examined in relation to fashion manufacture, as particular manufacturing issues such as fabric as material, and the grading of garment patterns to achieve size ranges of garments, create new kinds of opportunities for zero-waste fashion design. This study also asks: To what extent is a zero-waste approach feasible and desirable within contemporary fashion industry? This study demonstrates that zero-waste fashion design generates new opportunities for fashion design to engage with fashion manufacture that may not currently exist.
This study calls for fashion design to consider pattern cutting an integral part of the fashion design process. Such an approach to fashion design creates new opportunities for the fashion industry and fashion design education. Zero-waste fashion design is part of a larger picture of beauty for everyone, that fashion is capable of being the source of.

Zero-waste fashion design : a study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting

The aim of this study was to examine the effect of fading methods such as sand-blasting, laser and washing on performance properties of denim products. In this study, on one type of denim fabric, f...

A Comparison Among Performance Characteristics of Various Denim Fading Processes

Green reducing agents for indigo dyeing on cotton fabrics

Denim trousers, commonly known as “blue jeans”, have maintained their popularity for many years. For the purpose of supporting customers’ purchasing behaviour and to address their aesthetic taste, companies have been trying in recent years to develop various techniques to improve the visual aspects of denim fabrics. These techniques mainly include printing on fabrics, embroidery and washing the final product. Especially, fraying certain areas of the fabric by sanding and stone washing to create designs is a popular technique. However, due to certain inconveniences caused by these procedures and in response to growing demands, research is underway to obtain a similar appearance by creating better quality and more advantageous manufacturing conditions. As is known, the laser is a source of energy which can be directed on desired objects and whose power and intensity can be easily controlled. Use of the laser enables us to cut a great variety of material from metal to fabric. Starting off from this point, we thought it would be possible to transfer certain designs onto the surface of textile material by changing the dye molecules in the fabric and creating alterations in its colour quality values by directing the laser to the material at reduced intensity. This study mainly deals with a machine specially designed for making use of laser beams to transfer pictures, figures as well as graphics of desired variety, size and intensity on all kinds of surfaces in textile manufacturing such as knitted—woven fabrics, leather, etc. at desired precision and without damaging the texture of the material. In the designed system, computer-controlled laser beams are used to change the colour of the dye material on the textile surface by directing the laser beams at a desired wavelength and intensity onto various textile surfaces selected for application. For this purpose, a laser beam source that can reach the initial level of power and that can be controlled by means of a computer interface; reflecting mirrors that can direct this beam at two axes; a galvanometer which comprised of an optical aperture; and a computer program that can transfer images obtained in standard formats to the galvanometer control card were used. Developing new designs by using the computer and transferring the designs that are obtained on textile surfaces will not only increase and facilitate the production in a more practical manner, but also help you to create identical designs. This means serial manufacturing of the products at a standard quality and increasing their added values. Moreover, creating textile designs using laser will also contribute to the value of the product as far as the consumer is concerned because it will not cause any wearing off and deformation in the texture of the fabric unlike the sanding and stoning processes. Another advantage of this system is that it gives a richer look to the product by causing the textile surfaces to get wrinkled and become three-dimensional by deformation as well as enabling you to create pictures and patterns on leather and synthetic fabrics by means of heat. As for the results of the study, the first step was to prepare 40 pairs of denim trousers, half of which were prepared manually and the other half by using laser beam. Time studies were made at every step of the production. So as to determine the abrasion degrees of the trousers in design applications, tensile strength as well as tensile extension tests were conducted for all the trousers.

Improving the appearance of all textile products from clothing to home textile using laser technology

In order to provide clothing fit, it is necessary to associate garment patterns with body shapes. In this study, basic skirt patterns werecreated using the Computer Aided Design (CAD) system according to Contec, Metric, Muller, and Basic Blocks Pattern Making Systems in order to evaluate fit. These patterns are dressed up on virtual mannequins which have been created in the three-dimensional (3D) virtual sewing and try-on system. The mannequins’ sizes (38) and body dimensions are specified according to international size charts. Besides this the body shapes are selected as hourglass, triangle, or rectangle. The fit is evaluated according to pressure and tension maps, which are the tools of the 3D virtual sewing and try-on system. Although the mannequins are in same the size, different results are obtained for each body shape. Also different results are acquired for each pattern making system. Consequently it can be said that the pattern making systems are not suitable for each body shape.

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Fitting Evaluation of Pattern Making Systems According to Female Body Shapes

The objective of this research is to conduct a comparison in pattern and marker making between the CAD and manual methods as regards individual course steps and total time values, and to determine the effective of model complexity on these times. For this purpose, four models starting from the simplest to the most complex were designed, and the course steps of the traditional manual method and CAD were first established. Each course step was carried out repeatedly by an expert according to statistical norms. In order to determine in which steps and for which model CAD can be more productive, the data obtained for both methods was compared with respect to the individual time value of each course step and the total time values. Furthermore, the possible causes of the results obtained were discussed and suggestions were put forward.

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The Comparison of the Manual and CAD Systems for Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making Processes

Indigo dye has been widely used for dyeing traditional blue denim products intended to give a worn faded look. However, while using the warp yarn dyeing process with indigo dye often occur problems of colour variation. To prevent colour variation, controlling the indigo dye baths is an important factor. The objectives of this study include adjusting dosages of leuco indigo, hydrosulphite, pH (caustic), using an automatic measurement and dosing system taking redox titrations as the basis. It was observed that measurements carried out with this system became more reliable and also had a positive effect on the quality of the product.

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Automatic Indigo Measurement System as Part of a Dosing System for Indigo Dyeing

The use of stone-washing and bleaching to create surface effects on fabrics is difficult to control and caustic. A novel machine uses laser-beam intensity variation to reproducibly modify the surface of fabrics without harming product quality.

Ziynet Ondogan

Papers

Improving the appearance of all textile products from clothing to home textile using laser technology

Fitting Evaluation of Pattern Making Systems According to Female Body Shapes

The Comparison of the Manual and CAD Systems for Pattern Making, Grading and Marker Making Processes

Automatic Indigo Measurement System as Part of a Dosing System for Indigo Dyeing

Laser machine creates patterns in fabric