Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 1982"

TL;DR: In this article, three models, indicated as the refraction model, the parabolic refraction-diffraction model and the full refractiondiffraction models, are briefly described, together with a comparison of the computational results of these models with measurements in a hydraulic scale model.

TL;DR: In this paper, a large number of two-dimensional and three-dimensional mobile-bed model tests has been carried out to investigate the process of dune erosion and the state of art after a series of small-scale tests is summarized.

TL;DR: In this article, the variations of radiation stress and mean water level are studied for the two-dimensional shoaling and breaking of progressive, periodic waves on a plane, gently sloping laboratory beach.

TL;DR: In this paper, a second-order transfer function for estimating the long-wave height is proposed, which is based on the difference of the wave-number vectors of the short-wave wave fields.

TL;DR: The Nearshore Sediment Transport Study (NSTS) sponsored by the National Sea Grant Office included a field component to quantify the total longshore sediment transport relationship as discussed by the authors, which encompassed a period of eighteen months during which ten surveys were conducted.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors defined the basic forms in which wind speed and wave height persistence statistics may be defined for offshore engineering applications, and described the development of a mathematical persistence model.

TL;DR: In this article, explicit formulae for linear wave quantities are presented, which are accurate within one percent for h L o (water depth to deep-water wave length) less than 0.20.

TL;DR: In this paper, a first approach to the behavior, flow characteristics and stability of mound breakwaters under oblique wave attack is undertaken by assuming that oblique incidence only affects the slope angle.

TL;DR: In this paper, a case study of the effects of tidal currents on the wave heights in a tidal entrance, viz. the Oosterschelde estuary in the Netherlands, is presented.

TL;DR: The joint surge-tide probability method for estimating the frequency of occurrence of extreme high sea levels is particularly useful when only a few years of sea level observations are available for the location of interest.

TL;DR: In this article, an efficient three-dimensional model of coastal currents and sediment transport has been developed for the Mississippi Sound and the results of a laboratory study on settling, resuspension, and deposition of sediment are briefly described.

TL;DR: In this paper, a two-layer model is proposed to investigate the possibility that jets or "bursts" of fluid hurled up from flat beds of sand or gravel in oscillatory flow may produce significant modification of the velocity profile.

TL;DR: In this paper, a comparison between sudden and gradual closure methods, the latter being subdivided into vertical, horizontal and combined methods, is made, and a case study has been worked out briefly.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used second order gravity wave theory to explain the observed discrepancies in the first order transformation of the pressure spectrum into a surface level spectrum, leading to hitherto unexplained discrepancies with prototype simultaneous pressure and level measurements.

TL;DR: In this article, measurements of water particle velocities in laboratory-scale irregular, non-periodic surface waves were taken over a range of elevations using Laser Doppler anemometry and included observations of particle kinematics at two points separated in plan.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present a method for computing the rate of shoaling in channels subject to shoaling with bypassing, and the method also permits estimates of the effect of the dredged channel on the downdrift beaches.

TL;DR: In this article, the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach was measured and compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories.

TL;DR: In this paper, a static and dynamic test of 4t reinforced units and 4t, 0.4t and 0.04t unreinforced units were used to measure the concrete surface and reinforcing bar stress of Dolos, and impact load were measured.

TL;DR: In this article, the problem is reduced to a linear system of algebraic equations that is solved by the conjugate gradient algorithm, and the reliability of the method is investigated by comparison of the numerical results with experimental data.

TL;DR: In this article, the second approximation for the mass transport velocity within the oscillatory bottom boundary layer under sinusoidal progressive and standing waves of finite amplitude is obtained, which essentially ensures continuity of the vertical gradient of mass transport at the edge of the layer and is of third-order in the perturbation parameter.

TL;DR: In this article, a detailed tide and interaction analysis for two major ports in close proximity can reveal substantial differences in interaction behaviour and hence the applicability of joint probability methods, and the most attractive and suitable method is that of joint surge-tide probability analysis.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the relationship between the transmission coefficient and a breakwater height above mean sea level normalized with a theoretical wave run-up height, and reported a relationship between transmission coefficients and breakwater heights.

TL;DR: A depression in mid North Atlantic moved at a speed such that it generated high waves of unusually long period and large wavelength as mentioned in this paper, which travelled in precisely the right direction to carry them into the English Channel, where they arrived during a time of spring tides and when low barometric pressure contributed to long waves impinging high on the foreshore, causing appreciable damage to sea defences and property.

TL;DR: In this article, a detailed historical, movable bed models, and field studies have been conducted with the aim of defining a proper defence system for these beaches, and the results of these studies are reported here.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the possibilities of maintaining the harbour entrance channel at certain depths and to find some means to stabilise and improve the Durban beaches, and the results showed that maintaining the harbor entrance channel can improve the stability of Durban's beaches.

TL;DR: The spatial distribution of the common Atlantic Coast mole crab, Emerita talpoida, is strongly influenced by inshore processes and the grain size and morphology of sand beaches.

TL;DR: In this paper, the breakwater described in this case history used the Kowalski or Goodyear design, which is made up of modules of eighteen tyres which are connected up to form a flexible mat.

TL;DR: In this article, a joint probability analysis of storm tides is made for the Battery, New York (U.S.A.), and Newark Bay, New Jersey, U.S., by using existing gage data at the Battery to construct frequency/probability curves of peak surge elevations and tidal amplitudes.

TL;DR: In this article, a comprehensive overview of the comparative importance of the approximations of the terms of the hydrodynamic equations based on experiments of typical estuaries is available, and a practical assessment of the relative importance of timestep size, grid size, depth accuracy, roughness estimates, and approximation of the closure term by viscosity or other expressions.

TL;DR: In this paper, the longshore wind generates barotropic continental shelf waves, raising or lowering the mean sea level by as much as 30 cm and generating longshore currents over the continental shelf, even very close to the coast, that are often larger than the tidal currents.