Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 1983"

TL;DR: In this paper, a new way of implementing radiation boundary conditions in finite difference schemes is reported, where instead of prescribing the incident field at the model boundary, waves are generated inside the boundary.

TL;DR: The mild-slope equation is a vertically integrated refraction-diffraction equation, used to predict wave propagation in a region with uneven bottom slopes as mentioned in this paper, which is based on the assumption of a mild bottom slope.

TL;DR: In this article, a theoretical solution for the reflection of linear shallow-water waves from a vertical porous wave absorber on a horizontal bottom is presented, where periodic solutions are matched at the front face of the absorber by assuming continuity of pressure and mass.

TL;DR: Kraus et al. as mentioned in this paper made a numerical simulation of the long-term shoreline evolution of the sandy beach adjacent to Oarai Harbor, Japan and verified the model's predictive capability.

TL;DR: In this paper, a nonlinear theory correct to second order for steps of infinite and finite lengths subjected to single harmonic waves is presented, and boundary value problem for the second-order scattered velocity potential is linearly decomposed into two separate boundary value problems, each having only one inhomogeneous boundary condition.

TL;DR: Packwood et al. as discussed by the authors used a numerical model to calculate the influence of a porous bed on the run-up of a bore on a gently sloping sandy beach and found that fine-medium grade sands have very little effect in the runup phase.

TL;DR: The boundary integral equation method (BIEM) was developed as a tool for studying two-dimensional, nonlinear water wave problems, including the phenomena of wave generation, propagation and run-up.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for linear waves to find an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation on a simple topography; i.e. topographies with incrementally constant slope and straight parallel contours.

TL;DR: In this article, an analysis of laminar and turbulent flow in porous stone material is presented to evaluate the order of magnitude of scale effects in hydraulic models, and an evaluation of the energy dissipation is made in order to determine the scale effect due to “laminar” flow.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors show that as the offshore wave height increased, the inshore wave height tended to saturate at an Hs of about 3 m. The measured saturation level corresponds to a wave breaking when its height is approximately 0.5 the water depth.

TL;DR: In this paper, a discussion on the effect of beach scraping on dunes and dykes against erosion is carried out and the conclusion is that, undertaken in a practical and modest manner, scraping is not harmful but rather it is beneficial in protecting dykes and dunes against erosion on a short-term basis.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors examined the effect of wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents on non-planar, concave-up beaches and found that the influence of lateral mixing increases as the wave height decreases.

TL;DR: For a concave-up 2 3 power Bruun profile, the following two sediment transport models were developed: (1) a Bagnold-type model and (2) a combined wave-current stress model as discussed by the authors.

TL;DR: Harper et al. as mentioned in this paper presented a Bathystrophic storm tide approximation to open-boundary water levels, which was used to simulate hurricane storm surge. But this approach is not suitable for hurricane flooding.

TL;DR: In this article, a stochastic relationship giving the critical bed shear stress for the initiation of sand transport under these conditions is applied to hydraulic and sedimentary data obtained from two entrances in Florida.

TL;DR: In this paper, the geometrical properties of the armor layer of rubble mound breakwaters were investigated by observations made on two cases: a laboratory-scaled model of natural rock and a breakwater in the sea, constructed with a uniform slope of tetrapods.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors solved the unsteady shallow-water vorticity equation dominating nearshore flow on a gently sloping plane beach by using the implicit finite difference technique under the assumption of constant viscosity over the flow field.

TL;DR: In this article, three methods available for measurement of suspended sediment concentration were chosen and tested in natural conditions, including sand traps, a radioisotopic probe and a long-action sampler (bathometer).

TL;DR: In this paper, a technique for analyzing multi-modal directional wave spectra from tri-orthogonal measuring methods is discussed for measurements, made with a three-dimensional acoustic current meter in the southern part of the North Sea.