Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 1990"

TL;DR: In this article, a discussion is given of the physical approximations used in obtaining water wave dispersion relations, which relate wave length and height, period, water depth and current.

TL;DR: In this paper, a coastal evolution concept is proposed and materialized with which shoreline position changes for different sea level rise scenarios are predicted, based on morphodynamic processes from the shelf to the first dune row, and integrates over coastal units of approximately 10 km alongshore length.

TL;DR: In this paper, a method based on linear diffraction theory for predicting the wave field in a harbor containing partially reflecting boundaries is described. But the method does not account adequately for the effects of wave diffraction and partial reflections.

TL;DR: In this article, the wave-current friction coefficients and the phase lead of the bottom shear stress over the free-stream oscillatory velocity for rough, smooth and transitional smooth-to-rough turbulent flow are presented.

TL;DR: In this article, the observed characteristics of some basic integral parameters for regular waves essential for the determination of the energy flux, the radiation stress, and the energy dissipation throughout the surf zone are discussed.

TL;DR: Greenwood et al. as mentioned in this paper measured the horizontal, cross-shore velocity field in the lowermost meter of the water column, in association with measurements of waves and the mean elevation of water surface, across a nontidal, low relief, barred surf-zone.

TL;DR: In this paper, a closed-form transformation of random variable is performed to yield the probability density function for wave height across a beach of uniform slope starting from a Rayleigh distribution well seaward of the surf zone, the transformation is accomplished by using linear wave theory for shoaling and an analytical solution of a model for decay of regular waves due to breaking.

TL;DR: In this article, the most common parameters and functions used to characterize wave groups in linear seas are reviewed and interrelated in a unified manner, and the theoretical estimates used to demonstrate the relationships between the various parameters must be considered as only first-order trends to parameter estimates computed from real wave data.

TL;DR: The stability analysis for a double-inlet bay system is applied to an inlet system resembling Big Marco Pass and Capri Pass on the lower west coast of Florida.

TL;DR: In this article, a numerical model is presented for the description of the erosion and sedimentation near pipelines on the sea bottom, based on the Navier-Stokes equations and the equation of motion and continuity of sediment.

TL;DR: In this article, an economic full implicit finite-difference scheme and variable grid size were used to solve the depth-averaged equations of motion and the continuity equation for estimating the detailed tidal-current fields in the middle reach of the James River near Hogpoint, Virginia.

TL;DR: In this article, a case history of observed flow modification is provided by dye studies and records of currents around the diffusers of the San Onofre Nuclear Generating Station (SONGS), which entrain a volume of flow on the order of 1000 m3 s−1.

TL;DR: In this article, the main features of morphological processes along the Romanian Black Sea coast, such as the influence of the changes in the sediment regime at the Danube mouths onshore erosion and the effect of jetties and harbour works in interrupting longshore sand transport, are presented.

TL;DR: In this paper, a special method for performing field experiments was developed to characterize concentration fields on a vast aquatory from the water edge to the significant depth of sediment movement, where a significant amount of sand and aleurite particles are suspended near the bottom at a depth of 30 m or even deeper.

TL;DR: In this paper, a field study of wave reflections from an exposed dissipative beach, using only water-surface elevation data from five wave height sensors, was carried out using a technique normally reserved for laboratory use to separate incident and reflected infragravity wave energy spectra.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors proposed a multi-distributional framework for extreme event analysis, where the design criteria for coastal structures must allow for future maxima to be generated from a sequence of different distributions.

TL;DR: In this paper, a transport formula is presented which is based upon the rate of energy dissipation in breaking waves and incorporates a dimensionless grain size parameter, and has been calibrated against field and laboratory data.

TL;DR: In this paper, an analysis of wave and current evolution in shoaling and breaking waves in the cross-shore plane adopts the integral method used successfully for turbulent shear flows.

TL;DR: In this article, the hydrodynamic pressure due to random waves on a large vertical cylinder, resting on a flume bed and piercing above the free surface has been investigated experimentally in constant water depth.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors examined the behavior of breakwater armor layer stability through laboratory experiments and a probabilistic model and found that the interlocking resistance of artificial blocks when randomly placed is, more or less, proportional to the weight of the units.

TL;DR: In this paper, a double-factor method for a modified vectorial Morison Equation is presented and the coefficients are determined by a least-squares error principle and calculated by a numerical method.

TL;DR: In this paper, a model for probabilistic analysis of the extreme wave run-up on a coastal dike has been defined for evaluation of the event of waves overtopping the dike during severe wave action under a combination of a high tide and a storm surge.

TL;DR: A series of hydraulic model tests was carried out to investigate the mechanisms by which reshaped breakwaters, that is breakwaters in which the initial profile is adjusted into a more stable profile as a result of wave action, gain their stability.

TL;DR: In this article, the use of steel reinforcement in slender-section concrete armour units used to protect the North Wirral coastline from storm erosion is described, where electrical potential and resistivity methods are used to assess the level of corrosion activity in the steel reinforcement.

TL;DR: In this paper, an experimental investigation has been carried out on random wave-induced forces on a smooth horizontal submarine pipeline held fixed at various gaps from a plane boundary, where the pipeline was subjected to random waves with Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum (P-M spectrum) at various energy levels to achieve different significant wave conditions.

TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of wave-induced seepage on an impervious breakwater, resting on a submerged bed of sand, and constructed with an extended foundation base, are considered.