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Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 1994"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the mean flow and turbulence in a wave flume for a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker were studied, and the results indicated that there are fundamental differences in the dynamics of turbulence between spilling and plunging breakers, which can be related to the processes of wave breaking and turbulence production.

384 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors studied the physics and characteristics of impact pressure due to collisions of breaking waves against a vertical wall and found that when a small amount of air is entrapped between the breaking wave and the wall at the collision, the impact pressure increases considerably.

236 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The results suggest that the present design approaches cannot explain most of the failure modes reported, and that the stability of vertical breakwaters is an integrated and complex problem which can satisfactorily be solved only by dynamic analysis and probabilistic design approaches.

224 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, numerical computations based on a one-dimensional time domain Boussinesq model with improved dispersion characteristics are carried out to model relatively long, unidirectional waves propagating over a submerged obstacle.

220 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a model of a fringing reef with a steep face and an outer reef-top slope gradually decreasing in the landward direction was used to measure wave transformation of regular waves.

198 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present convincing evidence of the fact that the value of 0.55 is the largest wave height to water depth ratio realizable for stable, shallow water oscillatory waves propagating in water of constant depth (horizontal bed).

135 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the P.C.-model ODIFLOCS, developed at Delft University of Technology within the framework of the European MAST-Coastal Structures project, describes the wave motion on and in several types of structures.

122 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors summarized the large Italian experience in design and construction of vertical breakwaters for harbor protection and highlighted the numerous advantages of the modern reinforced concrete cellular caisson technique.

89 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a semi-empirical model is presented to simulate the morphological behaviour of a tidal basin in response to a change in one or more of the extrinsic conditions.

83 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a sensitivity analysis of the relevant parameters affecting the dynamic response of a caisson breakwater subject to breaking wave loads is performed by using a numerical model validated by large-scale model tests.

80 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a review of the history of breakwater construction in Japan is reviewed and present design methods of vertical breakwaters are discussed in terms of wave forces and breakwater stability.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated flow separation effects induced by time-periodic water waves travelling over a submerged rectangular obstacle and found that the formation and growth of separation region respond directly to the wave transformation above the submerged obstacle, leading to a variety of different eddy geometries.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a critical case of a plunging-wave impact on a vertical wall is examined and the impact pressures can be approximately decomposed into a primary component associated with the overall wave evolution and a component influenced by the trapped air dynamics.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the decomposition phenomenon of a nonlinear wave train passing over a submerged shelf without breaking has been investigated by a previously developed numerical model, which is triggered by higher harmonic generation and nonlinear resonant interaction over the shelf.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, approximate formulae of wave-current friction coefficient and phase difference, spanning all flow regimes, are obtained based upon the theoretical results of Tanaka and Shuto (1981).

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a wave-generated bedform geometry from field and laboratory measurements are re-evaluated in terms of relative fluid orbit diameter at the bed, and a wave period parameter, χ = ϱD/γ8T2.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the reflection characteristics of vertical and sloping permeable seawalls were determined with a numerical model based on the methodology proposed by Ijima et al. (1976), and the variation of the reflection coefficients with the porosity of the wall, its friction factor and the relative wall width was compared with the analytical results of Madsen (1983).

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the relationship between the measured wave height and the subsurface wave pressure was directly assessed without resorting to the pressure response factor and the correction factor, and the empirical expression was compared with the experimental data and observational data from Hom-ma et al.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, an evolution equation is developed from the mild slope equation by using the perturbation method and the alternating direction implicit method is used to solve the equation and the numerical scheme is unconditional stable.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a model for the motion of an upright section of a composite breakwater activated by an impulsive force due to breaking waves is presented, where the foundation is represented by a system of mass and dual springs for rotational and horizontal motions.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, hydraulic tests of the erosion by waves of a laboratory flume profile made from intact samples of till, a preconsolidated cohesive material, are described, and two sets of tests are replicated in order to demonstrate their repeatability.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a simple model was developed to predict current velocity profiles in the presence of waves, which can be used to calculate the wave friction factor, current friction velocity and current velocities without laborious iterations involved.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the mild slope equation is solved by a generalized conjugate gradient method, which has a fast convergence rate, relatively small storage requirement and is easy to apply to complicated non-rectangular regions.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors measured sediment concentrations in and around the surf zone measured from pumped samples were compared to measurements from an optical backscatterance (OBS) sensor at higher values of the eddy diffusivity and sediment grain size under breaking waves, the pump trapping efficiency was increased by up to 21 times.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the dispersion of a 2D non-buoyant jet discharged beneath a series of progressive gravity waves is compared to an identical discharge in a stagnant ambient, showing that the oscillatory wave motion has a significant effect upon both the mean velocity profiles and the magnitude of the turbulent fluctuations.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The relationship between swash force, sand grain size, dune density and dune erosion was investigated in a series of laboratory experiments as mentioned in this paper, and the results showed that the relationship between the two factors are related linearly.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A new two-dimensional empirical eigenfunction model is developed for the prediction of beach changes due to cross-shore and longshore sediment transports that simplifies the complex representation of eigenfunctions presented by Hsu et al. (1986), and takes advantage of this simplication to reduce artificial errors and save computer time for further applications.

Journal ArticleDOI
Martin Mathiesen1
TL;DR: A theoretically founded parametric model for the estimation of duration statistics for significant wave height is established in this paper, which requires information both on the distribution and the average absolute rate of change of significant wave length.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a general formulation of small and large-angle parabolic approximations in conformally mapped coordinate systems is introduced, applied to the study of two particular cases involving a polar coordinate system.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a three-dimensional PC-based hydrodynamic model, B achom -3, is developed using an Alternating Direction Implicit (ADI) finite difference scheme.