Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2000"

TL;DR: In this article, a model distribution consisting of a Rayleigh distribution, or a Weibull distribution with exponent equal to 2, for the lower wave heights and a higher exponent for the higher wave heights was proposed.

TL;DR: In this paper, a one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented.

TL;DR: New features have been added and several necessary changes have been made to the standard WAM-cycle4 (WAMC4) model code for it to run efficiently when applied to shallow water regions, considerably reducing the computational time needed and increasing the accuracy in high-resolution applications.

TL;DR: In this paper, a free empirical coefficient alpha in a formula for the average rate of energy dissipation was found to be a function of the dimensionless parameter F-c0 = (g(1.25)H(0)(0.5)T(2.5))/h(r)(1.75), proposed by Gourlay.

TL;DR: In this article, a review of operational systems used for real-time prediction of tides, surges and waves in northwest Europe is presented, taking the form of a snapshot of models, related observing systems and dissemination procedures in use early in 1999.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors compared 12 existing longshore sediment transport formulae using a measured annual transport rate from a shingle beach and a concurrent hindcast wave climate and derived two new empirical equations, one from a numerical model calibrated against the same data set, the other derived from field experiments on coarse grained beaches.

TL;DR: In this paper, an extended set of Boussinesq equations, which are used to model breaking waves, is derived and the wave breaking is described by accounting for the effect of vorticity generated by the breaking process.

TL;DR: In this article, an approach to describe complex sea states including the ones consisting of superpositions of swell and wind sea components, using a nautical radar in X-band as a remote sensing technique is presented.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors developed an asymptotic theory for the flow kinematics of a thin layer of viscous mud under water surface waves, where the mud depth, the mud Stokes' boundary layer thickness, and the wave amplitude are assumed to be comparable with one another, and much smaller than the wavelength.

TL;DR: In this article, Symonds et al. presented new experimental data on 2D surf beat generation by a time-varying breakpoint induced by bichromatic wave groups.

TL;DR: In this article, the Gaussian theory is reviewed and nonlinear short-term probability distributions are derived from a narrow band second-order model, which has different impact on different measurement techniques, and this is further demonstrated for wave data from WAVEMOD Crete measurement campaign and laser data from the North Sea.

TL;DR: In this paper, the 2D scour at the trunk section of a rubble-mound breakwater was investigated with both regular and irregular waves, and the maximum scour depth was found to be smaller in the present case than that of the vertical-wall breakwater case.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors discuss the use of distribution functions in the description of the long-term behaviour of significant wave height data and show that the usual goodness-of-fit diagnostics do not ensure correct predictions of return values based on arbitrary statistical models.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors summarized the results of over 8 years of data describing the performance of a large beach nourishment project on Perdido Key, immediately adjacent to Pensacola Pass in Escambia County, FL, USA.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors extended the modelling of suspended particulate matter (SPM) on the local coastal scale to SPM modelling on the scale of the North Sea, focusing on representing SPM patterns and their seasonal distribution.

TL;DR: In this paper, a combination of established methods is used in an attempt to account for the most important physical processes involved in this complicated problem, while keeping the computational burden modest, and the model is validated for the linear problem, and non-linear calculations are compared with experimental measurements for a ship moored in an L-shaped harbor.

TL;DR: In this article, the coastline changes at Wladyslawowo harbour in Poland, characterised by distinct longshore sediment transport, were analyzed using available field data using four models: genesis, litpack, unibest and sand94.

TL;DR: In this article, a spectral wave model with non-linear dissipation is validated and applied in wind-wave investigations in the Sylt-Romo Bight, and it is shown that inclusion of currents distinctly improves the hindcast skill for wave periods.

TL;DR: The oceanographic tower Acqua Alta as mentioned in this paper was constructed in early 1970 in the Adriatic Sea some 20 km from Venice to obtain information about the meteomarine conditions off the Venice lagoon, where the old town is threatened by ever more severe floodings.

TL;DR: In this paper, a review of the basic features of multivariate autoregressive models is presented, and then applications are made to the wave time series of Figueira da Foz, in Portugal.

TL;DR: In this article, a wave model and a hydrodynamic model were incorporated into a coupling framework that allows an efficient exchange of information between them, and a series of experiments were performed to investigate the sensitivity of waves and surges to coupling.

TL;DR: In this paper, a non-linear threshold autoregressive (TAR) model was used to describe the wave height of sea states at Figueira da Foz, located in the Portuguese coast.

TL;DR: In this article, the role and contribution of satellite data in operational oceanography is reviewed, with emphasis on northern European seas, and the suitability of existing satellite data to fulfil the operational requirements for temporal and spatial coverage, data delivery in near real-time, and long-term access to data is discussed in light of the fact that optical/infrared data in northern Europe are severely hampered by frequent cloud cover, while microwave techniques can provide useful data independent of weather and light conditions.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the annual variation in the net longshore sediment transport rates at three South African and at one North African sites and found that measurements of longshore transport rates should be conducted continuously for 5-8 years in order to obtain an accurate value (within 10%) of the true long-term mean net long-shore transport rate.

TL;DR: In this paper, the wave-induced cyclic pore-pressure response of a seabed in the vicinity of a submarine pipeline was investigated. And the question of perturbation effects affecting the wave induced pore pressure field by the presence of a stiff and impermeable body of the submarine pipeline is analyzed thoroughly.

TL;DR: In this paper, the spectral wave model is adapted for applications with high spatial resolution, and a number of additional features pertaining to shallow water are revealed including the sensitivity to specification of wind directions and the excessive temporal spreading of short-lived distant events.

TL;DR: In this paper, a finite element computational grid is made of some 16,300 triangular elements with sizes ranging between 13 km (on the offshore boundary) and 1 km (near the coast), with local refinements on the continental shelf and in the area of Figueira da Foz.

TL;DR: Van Dongeren et al. as mentioned in this paper used the quasi-3D (Q3D) nearshore circulation model SHORECIRC to study infragravity (IG) waves, forced by normally and obliquely incident wave groups.

TL;DR: In this article, a three-dimensional multi-level hydrodynamic model is proposed to predict and correct the free surface water elevation in a non-uniform staggered grid system, where the governing equations are explicitly and implicitly discretized into finite difference forms.

TL;DR: In this article, a one-dimensional model was developed for undertow and longshore current, which was calibrated with field data obtained over longshore bars at Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS).