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Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2001"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process, and the model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations.

217 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
Florence Cayocca1
TL;DR: In this paper, a two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates, which supported the idea that the Arcachon lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades.

205 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The results of the European Union Marine Science and Technology (EU MAST) III project "Scour Around Coastal Structures" (SCARCOST) as mentioned in this paper were summarized under three headings.

201 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, an experimental study on the onset of scour below and self-burial of pipelines in currents/waves was conducted, where pressure was measured on the surface of a slightly buried pipe at two points, one at the upstream side and the other at the downstream side of the pipe, both in the sand bed.

189 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A selection of threshold data sets from previous investigations is used to re-examine, selectively, some of the empirical curves that are most commonly used for the prediction of sediment threshold, implying that the formulae must be treated with caution in applications.

182 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) technique is used in the measurement of vortex generation and evolution due to flow separation around a submerged rectangular obstacle under incoming cnoidal waves.

178 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, an apparent conflict exists in the literature regarding the net effect of infiltration-exfiltration on the sediment transport, through the combined effects of stabilisation-destabilisation and boundary layer modification.

162 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a relationship between the level of aeration and the violence of the impact is derived, which enables the reduction in impact pressure caused by aeration to be estimated and provides a better means of predicting impact pressures in laboratory seawater wave tests from freshwater tests than either the Froude or Cauchy laws.

150 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the Eulerian frequency spectrum was used to describe the wave front dynamics, to derive the length and velocity macro and micro scales, and to derive a wave front model.

127 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, video-based swash motions from three studies (on two separate beaches) were analyzed with respect to theoretical swash trajectories assuming plane beach ballistic motions under quadratic friction.

117 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a modified methodology is proposed based on an analytical model of null drift current and using an empirical approach, which is able to locate the downcoast starting point of the static equilibrium beach from which the parabolic plan form of Hsu and Evans is valid.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented, where the model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: Based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in Cartesian coordinates, the equations in generalized coordinates are derived to adapt computations to irregularly shaped shorelines, such as harbors, bays and tidal inlets, and to make computations more efficient in large nearshore regions.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, an efficient and robust flow solver for the integration of the classic Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE) on a beach of arbitrary topography is described.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the skill of six well-known formulas developed for calculating the longshore sediment transport rate was evaluated in the present study, and the Van Rijn formula was found to yield the most reliable predictions over the range of swell and storm conditions covered by the field data set.

Journal ArticleDOI
Stig M. Løvås1, Alf Tørum1
TL;DR: In this paper, a set of results from a laboratory study on water wave propagation above submerged vegetation growing in the surf zone and the effect of submerged vegetation on dune erosion was presented.

Journal ArticleDOI

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a piston-type wavemaker was set up in the computational domain to produce the incident solitary waves and the associated boundary layer flow in a wave tank with a flat bed.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a particle image velocimetry (PIV) method was proposed to quantify the horizontal flow structure of swash flows in the foreshore of the Gulf of Mexico.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a horizontal sand bed under non-breaking waves is reported and sediment mobility measurements are performed with the objective of determining the effect of shear stress on sediment mobility.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center, where an active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to control the cross-shore distribution of the mean longshore current.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the reflection characteristics of a slotted seawall depend mainly on the porosity of the slotted plate and the incident wave height, and it is found that the reflection coefficient reaches its minimum value as the chamber width is about a quarter of the incident wavelength.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The main characteristics of the nourishment campaigns (year, volume, budget, transport method, sand data, etc.) are presented in this paper, where location of sand borrow sites and distance to the beaches are also shown.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a comparison of measured and predicted ripple geometries leads to the recommendation that the method of Mogridge, Davies and Willis can be used to predict ripple geometry for field-scale oscillatory flows.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the relationship of reflection and transmission coefficients to the wave number at different submergence depth ratios is presented. And the accurate discrimination, by this method, of the phase-locked and free modes allows the quantification of the higher harmonics generated by the breakwater and the analysis of the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the submerged plate.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broadbanded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, an analytical model has been developed that predicts the reflection of irregular waves normally incident upon a perforated-wall caisson breakwater, and the model somewhat over-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger values, and underpredicts at smaller values.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated temporal and spatial variations in shoreline position along the southern Baltic coast using singular spectrum analysis (SSA) with the overall aim to determine characteristic patterns in the shoreline response and whether these patterns displayed forced or self-organized behavior.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of random waves on bottom friction was studied by assuming the wave motion to be a stationary Gaussian narrowband random process, and by using friction coefficient formulas for sinusoidal waves.

Proceedings ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a Navier-Stokes solver with a k-w turbulence model is used for simulating spilling breakers in the surf zone, and two different numerical techniques for describing the free surface are investigated.