Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 

About: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology is an academic journal published by Wiley-Blackwell. The journal publishes majorly in the area(s): Medicine & Internal medicine. It has an ISSN identifier of 1473-2130. Over the lifetime, 4056 publications have been published receiving 38997 citations.

Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms

Abstract: Water is absolutely essential for the normal functioning of the skin and especially its outer layer, the stratum corneum (SC). Loss of water from the skin must be carefully regulated, a function dependent on the complex nature of the SC. The retention of water in the SC is dependent on two major components: (1) the presence of natural hygroscopic agents within the corneocytes (collectively referred to as natural moisturizing factor) and (2) the SC intercellular lipids orderly arranged to form a barrier to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The water content of the SC is necessary for proper SC maturation and skin desquamation. Increased TEWL impairs enzymatic functions required for normal desquamation resulting in the visible appearance of dry, flaky skin. There have been recent discoveries regarding the complex mechanisms of skin hydration. In particular, it has been discovered that glycerol, a well-known cosmetic ingredient, exists in the SC as a natural endogenous humectant. Hyaluronan, which has been regarded mainly as dermal component, is found in the epidermis and is important for maintaining normal SC structure and epidermal barrier function. More importantly, the discovery of the existence of the water-transporting protein aquaporin-3 in the viable epidermis and the presence of tight junction structures at the junction between the stratum granulosum and SC have brought new insights into the mechanisms of skin water distribution and barrier function.

Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications.

Abstract: Collagen is a fibrillar protein that conforms the conjunctive and connective tissues in the human body, essentially skin, joints, and bones. This molecule is one of the most abundant in many of the living organisms due to its connective role in biological structures. Due to its abundance, strength and its directly proportional relation with skin aging, collagen has gained great interest in the cosmetic industry. It has been established that the collagen fibers are damaged with the pass of time, losing thickness and strength which has been strongly related with skin aging phenomena [Colageno para todo. 60 y mas. 2016. http://www.revista60ymas.es/InterPresent1/groups/revistas/documents/binario/ses330informe.pdf.]. As a solution, the cosmetic industry incorporated collagen as an ingredient of different treatments to enhance the user youth and well-being, and some common presentations are creams, nutritional supplement for bone and cartilage regeneration, vascular and cardiac reconstruction, skin replacement, and augmentation of soft skin among others [J App Pharm Sci. 2015;5:123-127]. Nowadays, the biomolecule can be obtained by extraction from natural sources such as plants and animals or by recombinant protein production systems including yeast, bacteria, mammalian cells, insects or plants, or artificial fibrils that mimic collagen characteristics like the artificial polymer commercially named as KOD. Because of its increased use, its market size is valued over USD 6.63 billion by 2025 [Collagen Market By Source (Bovine, Porcine, Poultry, Marine), Product (Gelatin, Hydrolyzed Collagen), Application (Food & Beverages, Healthcare, Cosmetics), By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 2014 - 2025. Grand View Research. http://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/collagen-market. Published 2017.]. Nevertheless, there has been little effort on identifying which collagen types are the most suitable for cosmetic purposes, for which the present review will try to enlighten in a general scope this unattended matter.

Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation.

Abstract: Resveratrol, an antioxidant polyphenol from red wine, has been the subject of intense interest in recent years due to a range of unique anti-aging properties. These include cardiovascular benefits via increased nitric oxide production, down-regulation of vasoactive peptides, lowered levels of oxidized low-density lipoprotein, and cyclooxygenase inhibition; possible benefits on Alzheimer's disease by breakdown of beta-amyloid and direct effects on neural tissues; phytohormonal actions; anticancer properties via modulation of signal transduction, which translates into anti-initiation, antipromotion, and antiprogression effects; antimicrobial effects; and sirtuin activation, which is believed to be involved in the caloric restriction-longevity effect. Here we report a resveratrol-based skin care formulation, with 17 times greater antioxidant activity than idebenone. The role of resveratrol in prevention of photoaging is reviewed and compared with other antioxidants used in skin care products.

The efficacy and safety of combined microneedle fractional radiofrequency and sublative fractional radiofrequency for acne scars in Asian skin

Abstract: SummaryBackground Microneedle fractional radiofrequency has been reported to be effective for improving wrinkles, enlarged pores and various scars. Sublative fractional radiofrequency has been shown to induce both fractional ablation of epidermis and upper dermal remodelling, which had rejuvenation effects in photoaged skin. Both modalities may have the potential synergy to improve acne scars. Objective To evaluate the efficacy and safety of combined microneedle and sublative fractional radiofrequency for acne scars in Asian skin. Methods Twenty subjects comprised 11 males and 9 females (mean age 23.65 ± 2.94, skin phototype III–IV) with moderate to severe acne scars. The subjects received three consecutive combined microneedle and sublative fractional radiofrequency at 4-week intervals over 12 weeks. Both blinded dermatologists and subjects assessed the clinical improvement based on the standardized photography and questionnaires, respectively. The quartile grading scale was utilized and defined as follows: grade 1, 0–25% improvement; grade 2, 26–50% improvement; grade 3, 51–75% improvement and grade 4, 76–100% improvement. Results All 20 subjects were assessed to have grade 2 or more clinical improvement by physicians; four (20%) had grade 4, 10 (50%) had grade 3, and six (30%) had grade 2 improvement. The subjects' grading also showed a good concordance as indicated by Kappa index of 0.695. The mean duration of post-therapy crusting was 5.2 days and post-therapy erythema lasted 2.5 days. Conclusion Combined microneedle and sublative fractional radiofrequency can have a positive therapeutic effect with no serious complications and may provide a new therapeutic approach on acne scars in Asians.

Natural products as photoprotection

Abstract: The rise in solar ultraviolet radiation on the earth's surface has led to a depletion of stratospheric ozone over recent decades, thus accelerating the need to protect human skin against the harmful effects of UV radiation such as erythema, edema, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and skin cancer. There are many different ways to protect skin against UV radiation's harmful effects. The most popular way to reduce the amount of UV radiation penetrating the skin is topical application of sunscreen products that contain UV absorbing or reflecting active molecules. Based on their protection mechanism, the active molecules in sunscreens are broadly divided into inorganic and organic agents. Inorganic sunscreens reflect and scatter UV and visible radiation, while organic sunscreens absorb UV radiation and then re-emit energy as heat or light. These synthetic molecules have limited concentration according to regulation concern. Several natural compounds with UV absorption property have been used to substitute for or to reduce the quantity of synthetic sunscreen agents. In addition to UV absorption property, most natural compounds were found to act as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory agents, which provide further protection against the damaging effects of UV radiation exposure. Compounds derived from natural sources have gained considerable attention for use in sunscreen products and have bolstered the market trend toward natural cosmetics. This adds to the importance of there being a wide selection of active molecules in sunscreen formulations. This paper summarizes a number of natural products derived from propolis, plants, algae, and lichens that have shown potential photoprotection properties against UV radiation exposure-induced skin damage.