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Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2009"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging ability and total phenolic content of major chemical compositions were investigated.
Abstract: Forty-five kinds of commonly used essential oils were employed to investigate the DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) radical scavenging ability and total phenolic content of major chemical compositions. The free-radical scavenging ability and total phenolic content of cinnamon leaf and clove bud essential oils are the best among these essential oils. One-half milliliter of cinnamon leaf and clove bud essential oils (10 mg/ml EtOH) are shown to be 96.74% and 96.12% of the DPPH (2.5 ml, 1.52x10(-4) M) free-radical scavenging ability, respectively. Their EC50 (effective concentrations) are 53 and 36 (microg/ml). One milligram per milliliter of cinnamon leaf, clove bud, and thyme red essential oils were shown to be 420, 480, and 270 (mg/g of GAE) of total phenolic content, respectively. Eugenol in cinnamon leaf and clove bud essential oils (82.87% and 82.32%, respectively) were analyzed by GC-MS. It is clear that the amounts of the phenol compounds in essential oils and the DPPH free-radical scavenging ability are in direct proportion.

39 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: It is hypothesized that these amino sugars modulate keratinocyte cellular adhesion and differentiation, leading to the normalization of stratum corneum exfoliation, and the use of amino sugars such as NAG as alternative compounds to replace theUse of alpha-hydroxy acids in skin care.
Abstract: Alpha-hydroxy acids have been used topically to treat skin for both dermatological and cosmetic problems for many years. Though there are many known benefits of the use of alpha-hydroxy acids on skin, there have been recent reports that topical treatments with alpha-hydroxy acids increase skin damage resulting from UVB. Additionally, high concentrations of alpha-hydroxy acids by themselves have also been found to cause skin irritation. In order to find alternatives to alpha-hydroxy acids, we investigated a variety of amino sugar compounds that were previously reported to inhibit the reaggregation of dissociated corneocytes by modulating cellular adhesion. In vivo, we observed that topical treatments with a formulation containing N-acetyl-glucosamine (NAG) led to an increase in skin moisturization, a decrease in skin flakiness, and the normalization of stratum corneum exfoliation. In vitro, we observed an upregulation of differentiation markers, keratin 10 and involucrin, in keratinocytes treated with NAG. CD44 is a lectin cell adhesion molecule that is also expressed in keratinocytes. Amino sugars such as NAG may competitively bind to CD44, modulating keratinocyte cellular adhesion. We hypothesize that these amino sugars modulate keratinocyte cellular adhesion and differentiation, leading to the normalization of stratum corneum exfoliation. We propose the use of amino sugars such as NAG as alternative compounds to replace the use of alpha-hydroxy acids in skin care.

14 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The proposed determination methods were validated for specificity, linearity, repeatability, system stability, intermediate precision, and accuracy, and could be rapid, selective, and proper applications for the assay of sunscreen agents in suncare products.
Abstract: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl butylphenol and bis-ethylhexyloxy phenol methoxyphenyl triazine are sunscreen agents that have hydrophobic behaviors in common. They were not normally assayed with the following four sunscreen agents that have hydrophilic behaviors in a single chromatographic run: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, and ethylhexyl triazone. For that reason, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl butylphenol and bis-ethylhexyloxy phenol methoxyphenyl triazine require much time in order to assay products with those materials. A rapid, selective, and reproducible determination method needs to be developed for the simultaneous examination of methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl butylphenol and bis-ethylhexyloxy phenol methoxyphenyl triazine with the sunscreen agents, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, and ethylhexyl triazone. This new technique could reduce time in examining the sunscreen agents and be effective for quality control of suncare products. In this paper, the HPLC and UPLC system is used for developing the determination of the sunscreen agents. Several evaluations of some mixtures of eluents and columns were obtained for the optimal condition of separation. In HPLC, the optimal peak resolution was obtained through ethanol-water gradient elution and a 75-mm C18 column with a 3.5-microm-sized particle on a flow rate of 1.0 ml/min. In UPLC, the most distinctive peak resolution was obtained through methanol-water gradient elution and a 50-mm C18 column with a 1.7-microm-sized particle on a flow rate 0.4 ml/min. Both of those chromatographic determination methods could be used in the examination of six types of sunscreen agents without any interference from other product excipients in the agents. The proposed determination methods were validated for specificity, linearity, repeatability, system stability, intermediate precision, and accuracy. Consequently, HPLC and UPLC determination methods could be rapid, selective, and proper applications for the assay of sunscreen agents in suncare products.

8 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The results indicate that the recognition of panelists of the improvement in hair luster and bounce in the root part of the hair were recognized by the panelists after the long-term application of the scalp lotion with Eucalyptus extract.
Abstract: A long-term usage investigation of a scalp lotion containing Eucalyptus extract, which increases the amount of ceramide in the skin, was carried out to explore the change in physical properties of the hair fiber. Half-head or whole-head usage studies of a scalp lotion with Eucalyptus extract were carried out for the following groups: Japanese female, Japanese senior female, Japanese male, and Caucasian female panelists. As a result, the improvement in hair luster and bounce in the root part of the hair were recognized by the panelists after the long-term application of the scalp lotion with Eucalyptus extract. Measurement of hair gloss intensity and bending stress at the root suggests that this improvement is based on changes in these physical properties. These results indicate that the recognition of panelists is based on an actual change in the hair fiber properties. The efficacy of Eucalyptus extract is expressed regardless of race, age, or gender, since similar results were confirmed in all panelist groups. In order to investigate the cause of these phenomena, we measured the elasticity (Young's modulus) of the new-growth part of the cortex in Eucalyptus extract-treated hair and placebo hair by the nano-indentation method of atomic force microscopy (AFM). These results suggest that the Young's modulus of the new-growth part of the cortex in Eucalyptus extract treated-hair increases in comparison with placebo hair. The IR spectra of treated samples of hair show changes that appear to confirm a decrease in the alpha-helix structure and an increase in the beta-sheet structure.

6 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: It is shown that both adhesion to the hair and polymer cohesion are important in determining fixative polymer performance, and the implications for the formulation of fixative systems are discussed.
Abstract: A novel approach is taken to understand the mechanical performance of fixative-treated hair tresses. Polymer composite principles are applied to explain the performance. Examples are given for polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer that show that the choice of neutralizer affects the film properties of anionic acrylic polymers by plasticization or by hardening through ionic (physical) crosslinking. The effect of these changes in the polymer film on the composite properties was determined by mechanical stiffness and high-humidity curl retention testing. It is shown that both adhesion to the hair and polymer cohesion are important in determining fixative polymer performance. The implications of the results for the formulation of fixative systems are discussed.

6 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A rapid clinical method to screen potential skin whiteners using a UV-induced skin tan as a model and providing reproducible results and valuable information about the potential skin-lightening activity of topical preparations is designed.
Abstract: Skin without significant dyschromia is an aesthetic requirement for people worldwide. There are several in vitro methods to determine the whitening potential of actives; however, the in vivo testing of skin whiteners is a long and expensive process. We have designed a rapid clinical method to screen potential skin whiteners using a UV-induced skin tan as a model. Small areas of identical suntan are repeatably induced on the skin, and treatment of these sites allows rapid screening of several skin whiteners within the course of a month. The method provides reproducible results and valuable information about the potential skin-lightening activity of topical preparations.

3 citations