Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2011"

Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations.

Abstract: This study aims to evaluate the skin moisturizing efficacy of formulations containing different concentrations of panthenol. Formulations supplemented with or without 0.5%, 1.0%, or 5.0% panthenol were applied daily to the forearms of healthy subjects. Skin conditions in terms of moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were analyzed before and after 15- and 30-day periods of application. The formulations were also applied after skin washing with sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) to evaluate the immediate effects on TEWL and skin moisture. Panthenol-containing formulations (1.0% and 5.0%) produced significant decreases in TEWL after 30-day applications. In skin washed with SLES, significant reduction of TEWL was evident two hours after application of formulations loaded with panthenol when compared with control and vehicle. It is concluded that skin integrity is maintained by the improved protective effect of 1.0% panthenol added to the formulation.

Enhanced female attractiveness with use of cosmetics and male tipping behavior in restaurants.

Abstract: Several studies have found that cosmetics improve female facial attractiveness when judgments are made based on photographs. However, these studies were conducted only in the laboratory, while field studies are scarce in the literature. In fact, only one study has tested the effect of cosmetics on behavior. In this study the effect of cosmetics on tipping behavior and the link between behavior and judgment on the physical attractiveness of waitresses wearing or not wearing cosmetics were tested. A female waitress with or without makeup was instructed to act in her usual way with her patrons. Results showed that the makeup condition was associated with a significant increase in the tipping behavior of male customers. It was also found that the effect of makeup on tipping behavior was mediated by the perception of the physical attractiveness of the waitress, but only when considering male customers.

Proteomic analysis of hair shaft and nail plate.

Abstract: The protein components of living cells in the hair follicle are amenable to study by standard molecular biological techniques, but identifying those in the hair shaft has been problematic until recently. Most of the protein, primarily keratins and keratin associated proteins, can be extracted under denaturing conditions, but 15-20% is intractable due to transglutaminase-mediated cross-linking. Shotgun proteomics now permits identifying >300 constituents of the isopeptide cross-linked proteome and even certain post-translational modifications. The proteins originate from all the intracellular compartments, indicating that the cross-linking process makes effective use of available resources to produce structures with great mechanical stability. Knowing this proteome provides a foundation for correlating defects in hair shaft structure with protein deficiencies. Such investigations can be extended to mouse models of aberrant pelage hair. Thus, inbred mouse strains can be distinguished by their hair proteomes, raising the possibility of similar variation in the human population. The nail plate is also amenable to this shotgun proteomic approach. Providing discrete and noninvasive sampling of the human proteome, these epidermal appendages could have diagnostic utility for certain disease states.

Tryptophan fluorescence in hair-examination of contributing factors.

Abstract: Various types of hair, including white (unpigmented), Piedmont (yellow-colored), blonde, brown, curly black of African origin, straight black of Chinese origin, and chemically processed (bleached) hair, were studied by using fluorescence spectroscopy. Fluorescence measurements were obtained by using a single- or double-grating fluorescence spectrophotometer and a bifurcated fiber optics accessory to measure the spectra directly from the surface of the hair. The results have shown that all types of hair share similar fluorescence characteristics, as recorded by excitation at 290 nm, 320 nm, 350 nm, and 380 nm, with emissions that could be ascribed to chromophores such as tryptophan (Trp), N-formylkynurenine, kynurenine, and 3-hydroxykynurenine. The relative intensities of fluorophore emissions were found to be dependent on factors such as melanin content and the history of UV light or thermal exposure. Trp fluorescence was also found to be dependent upon the state of the hair matrix. Softening of hair keratin by chemical reduction (breakage) of disulfide bonds or by hydration, leads to a 50%-100% increase in Trp emission intensity. Conversely, stiffening of the hair matrix by re-oxidation of reduced hair with hydrogen peroxide, or drying of wet hair, produces a decrease in fluorescence intensity. The results were interpreted by invoking the behavior of certain enzymes, which demonstrate Trp quenching by neighboring disulfide bonds or by hydrogen bonding with alanine residues, or with certain side-chain amino acids.

Chemical stability and degradation mechanisms of ferulic acid (F.A) within various cosmetic formulations

Abstract: Ferulic acid (F.A) receives significant interest in the beauty industry with regard to its skin-whitening and anti-oxidant properties. However, its use in cosmetics is limited due to pH- and temperature-related instabilities. In this study, we investigated the stability of F.A in eight different prototype formulae. The results confirmed that in our conditions the stability of F.A is pH- and temperature-related. Additionally, the nature of the solvent dipropylene glycol (DPPG) showed a capacity to stabilize F.A. A series of experiments was further planned for studying the mechanism of degradation of F.A. In a prototype of a cosmetic medium, F.A degrades first through a decarboxylation step, leading to 4-hydroxy-3-methoxystyrene (PVG). Further, F.A and PVG are both involved in an additional reaction, resulting in the trans-conjugation dimer of PVG. The consequences of these results in formulating F.A are discussed.

A study of four antioxidant activities and major chemical component analyses of twenty-five commonly used essential oils.

Abstract: Twenty-five essential oils and their major chemical components were screened for their possible antioxidant activities by assaying their DPPH free-radical scavenging activity (DFRS), total phenolic contents (TPC), trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC), and ferric thiocyanate (FTC). Based on the TPC and TEAC assays, the essential oil ajowan is among the best essential oils studied. Furthermore, the DFRS and FTC assays reveal that the essential oils cinnamon bark extra and oregano are also among the best oils studied. More specifically, at a concentration of 1 mg ml(-1), the essential oils cinnamon bark extra and benzoin showed 93.75 ± 0.01% and 90.64 ± 0.01% DFRS, while the essential oils ajowan and oregano showed TEAC values of 4374.72 ± 0.01 and 4023.49 ± 0.01 μM of trolox per mg, respectively. In addition, the essential oils oregano and ajowan showed 29.17 ± 0.02% and 25.26 ± 0.03% FTC based on the assay results. At a concentration of 10 mg ml(-1), the essential oils ajowan and oregano showed 1845.20 ± 0.04 and 1665.36 ± 0.04 μg of TPC relative to GAE, respectively. Two major chemical components of the essential oils cinnamon bark extra, ajowan, and oregano were trans-cinnamaldehyde (90.61%), eugenol (2.58%), carvacrol (61.20%), p-cymene (37.44%), thymol (77.09%), and p-cymene (10.01%). It is clear that phenolic compounds in the aforementioned essential oils yield a positive correlation with the DFRS, TPC, TEAC, and FTC assays.

Photocytotoxicity in human dermal fibroblasts elicited by permanent makeup inks containing titanium dioxide

Abstract: Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a pigment widely used in decorative tattoo and permanent makeup inks. However, little is known about the risks associated with its presence in these products. We have developed an in vitro assay to identify inks containing TiO2 that are cytotoxic and/or photocytotoxic. The presence of TiO2 in ten permanent makeup inks was established by X-ray fluorescence. Using X-ray diffraction, we found that seven inks contained predominately TiO2 (anatase), the more photocatalytically active crystalline form of TiO2. The remaining inks contained predominately TiO2 (rutile). To identify cytotoxic and/or photocytotoxic inks, human dermal fibroblasts were incubated for 18 h in media containing inks or pigments isolated from inks. Fibroblasts were then irradiated with 10 J/cm2 UVA radiation combined with 45 J/cm2 visible light for determining photocytotoxicity, or kept in the dark for determining cytotoxicity. Toxicity was assessed as inhibition of colony formation. No inks were cytotoxic. However eight inks, and the pigments isolated from these inks, were photocytotoxic. Using ESR, we found that most pigments from photocytotoxic inks generated hydroxyl radicals when photoexcited with UV radiation. Therefore, the possibility of photocytotoxicity should be considered when evaluating the safety of permanent makeup inks containing TiO2.

The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing.

Abstract: Hot flat irons are used to create straight hair styles. As these devices operate at temperatures over 200 °C they can cause significant damage to hair keratin. In this study, hair thermal damage and the effect of various polymeric pretreatments were investigated using FTIR imaging spectroscopy, DSC, dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), AFM, SEM, and thermal image analysis. FTIR imaging spectroscopy of hair cross sections provides spatially resolved molecular information such as protein distribution and structure. This approach was used to monitor thermally induced modification of hair protein, including the conversion of α-helix to β-sheet and protein degradation. DSC measurements of thermally treated hair also demonstrated degradation of hair keratin. DVS of thermally treated hair shows the reduced water regain and lower water retention, compared to the non-thermally treated hair, which might be attributed to the protein conformation changes due to heat damage. The protection of native protein structure associated with selected polymer pretreatments leads to improved moisture restoration and water retention of hair. This contributes to heat control on repeated hot flat ironing. Thermally stressing hair led to significantly increased hair breakage when subjected to combing. These studies indicate that hair breakage can be reduced significantly when hair is pretreated with selected polymers such as VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, polyquaternium-55, and a polyelectrolyte complex of PVM/MA copolymer and polyquaternium-28. In addition, polymeric pretreatments provide thermal protection against thermal degradation of keratin in the cortex as well as hair surface damage. The morphological improvement in cuticle integrity and smoothness with the polymer pretreatment plays an important role in their anti-breakage effect. Insights into structure-property relationships necessary to provide thermal protection to hair are presented.

Depigmenting action of a nanoemulsion containing heartwood extract of Artocarpus incisus on UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in C57BL/6 mice.

Abstract: Melasma hyperpigmentation is an acquired disorder predominantly affecting the female population. The present study was conducted to determine the potential of a botanical extract to reduce observable hyperpigmentation. The extract from heartwood of Artocarpus incisus was formulated into nanoemulsions, and the depigmenting efficacy of the formulated nanoemulsion was determined in vivo. HPLC analysis showed that the extract contained artocarpin in an amount of 44.5 ± 0.1% w/w. The extract exhibited melanogenesis inhibition with an IC(50) value of 30.2 ± 2.4 mg/ml, while kojic acid, a well known lightening agent, exhibited an IC(50) of 51.4 ± 5.1 mg/ml. The nanoemulsion containing the extract was then formulated and prepared by the phase inversion technique. The concentration of the extract used was about six times its IC(50). The optimal formula containing 0.02% w/w extract, 41.6% w/w isopropyl myristate, 0.03% w/w α-tocopherol, 5% w/wglyc-eryl monostearate (co-emulsifier), 8% w/w ceteareth-10 (emulsifier), 0.05% triethanolamine, 0.03% w/w carbopol 940, and water adjusted to 100% w/w provided a homogeneous o/w emulsion with a droplet size of 325 ± 15 nm and a polydispersity of 0.31 ± 0.02. The depigmenting efficacy was then observed following topical application of the formulated nanoemulsion to UVB-stimulated hyperpigmented dorsal skin of C57BL/6 mice. A strongly visible decrease in hyperpigmentation was observed after six weeks of treatment with the formulated nanoemulsion. The degree of pigmentation decreased after the application was 84 ± 4 units, while that after the application of the extracted prepared into solution was 51 ± 3 units. The applied areas would return to their original color after treatment was stopped for four weeks.

Inhibition of UV-induced ROS and collagen damage by Phyllanthus emblica extract in normal human dermal fibroblasts.

Abstract: As a part of ongoing research for novel natural cosmeceutical actives from plant extracts, this study demonstrates that Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract has shown its efficacy in protection against ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and collagen damage in normal human dermal fibroblasts. At a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml, emblica extract showed a significant response of 9.5 ± 0.28-fold protection from UVB induced-collagen damage as compared to untreated cells. A known active, ascorbic acid, at a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml, showed 3.7 ± 0.07-fold protection from UVB-induced collagen damage. While the untreated cells showed 84 ± 1.4% induction in ROS on UVB irradiation as compared to the non-irradiated cells, emblica extract treatment inhibited the induction of ROS to 15 ± 4% at a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml. Ascorbic acid inhibited the induction in ROS to 64 ± 2% at a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml. Emblica extract is a significantly better natural active, with promising cosmeceutical benefits against photoaging.

Use of non-melanocytic HEK293 cells stably expressing human tyrosinase for the screening of anti-melanogenic agents.

Abstract: Tyrosinase (TYR) from mushrooms has been inappropriately used in the screening assay for hypopigmenting agents even though its biochemical properties are different from those of human TYR. Cell-free extracts of human epidermal melanocyes (HEMs) could be another choice for the assay, but HEMs grow too slowly to get a sufficient amount of cell-free extracts. In the present study, human embryonic kidney (HEK) 293 cells were transfected with a human TYR construct to establish a cell line that grows rapidly and expresses human TYR constitutively. Cell-free extracts of the established cell line, HEK293-TYR, were tentatively used in the screening assays for 11 phenylpropanoids that have chemical structures similar to that of L-tyrosine, the substrate of TYR. Of the 11 compounds, the strongest inhibition of TYR activity was shown by p-coumaric acid (IC50, 3 μM), followed by 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propionic acid (50 μM) and 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid (70 μM). The results indicate that p-coumaric acid has an optimal chemical structure for the inhibition of TYR. The effects of these phenylpropanoids on melanin synthesis in HEMs correlated well with their effects on TYR activity in vitro. This study demonstrated that HEK293-TYR cells can be a good source of the human TYR enzymes needed in the screening assay of anti-melanogenic agents.

Advanced carrier systems in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: A review

Abstract: Carrier systems refer to carrier vesicles such as liposomes, nano/microparticles, emulsions, etc., that are coupled with active agents and applied to products to achieve the promoted effects of the active ingredients. This article reviews the recent research on carrier systems, focusing on cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications; the pros and cons of each carrier system and products on the market utilizing the technologies are discussed.

Graying of the human hair follicle.

Abstract: Quality of life in our society depends crucially on healthy aging, a hallmark of which is the graying hair follicle. During anagen melanocyte precursors migrate to the hair bulb to form the pigmentary unit where they mature and synthesize melanin. Melanin is transferred to the hair shaft forming keratinocytes giving the hair its colour. Graying is the process in which distinct mechanisms lead to deterioration of the hair follicle melanocyte population. We briefly review the hair graying process and state that the aging hair follicle is a valid model for tissue specific aging and a promising target to test therapeutic intervention.

Vitamin A palmitate and α-lipoic acid stability in o/w emulsions for cosmetic application.

Abstract: Fil: Moyano, M. A.. Universidad de Buenos Aires. Facultad de Farmacia y Bioquimica. Departamento de Tecnologia Farmaceutica; Argentina

The uptake of water hardness metals by human hair.

Abstract: The objective of this work was to examine the variables that influence the interaction between water hardness metals and human hair. Hair extracts various constituents from the tap water used during daily hygiene practices and chemical treatments. Calcium and magnesium metal ions are the most prevalent and give water "hardness." Inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectroscopy (ICP-AES) was employed to quantify the metal content of hair, which was studied as a function of the following variables: hair condition (oxidative damage), level of water hardness, and water pH. We have demonstrated that these variables impact water hardness metal uptake to varying extents, and the effects are driven primarily by the binding capacity (available anionic sites) of the hair. The condition of the hair, a key representation of the binding capacity, was most influential. Interestingly, water hardness levels had only a small effect on uptake; hair became saturated with notable amounts of water hardness metals even after repeated exposure to soft water. Water pH influenced metal uptake since side chains of hair proteins deprotonate with increasing alkalinity. These insights highlight the importance to the hair care industry of understanding the interaction between water hardness metals and hair.

Use of statistical modeling to predict the effect of formulation composition on coacervation, silicone deposition, and conditioning sensory performance of cationic cassia polymers

Abstract: Formulation composition has a dramatic influence on coacervate formation in conditioning shampoo. The purpose of this study is to correlate the amount of coacervate formation of novel cationic cassia polymers to the corresponding conditioning profiles on European brown hair using silicone deposition, cationic polymer deposition and sensory evaluation. A design of experiments was conducted by varying the levels of three surfactants (sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and cocamidopropyl betaine) in formulations containing cationic cassia polymers of different cationic charge density (1.7 and 3.0m Eq/g). The results show formulation composition dramatically affects physical properties, coacervation, silicone deposition, cationic polymer deposition and hair sensory attributes. Particularly, three parameters are of importance in determining silicone deposition: polymer charge, surfactant (micelle) charge and total amount of surfactant (micelle aspect ratio). Both sensory panel testing and silicone deposition results can be predicted with a high confidence level using statistical models that incorporate these parameters.

Evaluation of anti-cellulite efficacy: a topical cosmetic treatment for cellulite blemishes - a multifunctional formulation.

Abstract: Cellulite is thought to affect 80-90% of postpubertal women, and is considered much of a cosmetic concern by the large majority of them. In this study, the objective was to assess the efficacy of a topical cosmetic product containing various active ingredients of botanical origin on cellulite blemishes on female volunteers affected by fat accumulations, as well as by slight-to-moderate cellulite in the lower limbs. The assessment was performed by means of various objective evaluations, including contact thermography, morphometric measures of thigh circumference, and microcirculation evaluation. The obtained results indicate that the use of synergistic botanical standardized extracts, through the exploitation of different mechanisms of action and acting on different biological targets, provides visible and measurable results in the improvement of cellulite signs and symptoms.

The effects of water on heat-styling damage

Abstract: Heated styling appliances, such as straightening irons, have grown in popularity in recent years, as have hair products such as heat-protection sprays. In this study we investigate whether the water in a heat-protection spray can affect the level of damage caused by heat styling. Tryptophan damage from heat styling was measured using fluorescence spectroscopy, and structural damage was investigated using light microscopy and single-fiber tensile testing. Hair samples were heat treated with straightening irons, following treatment with either a water-based, "wet," heat-protection spray or an ethanol-based, "dry," spray. Results showed that, as expected, tryptophan damage was reduced by repeated applications of both the "wet" and "dry" heat-protection sprays. However, no differences were seen between the "wet" versus the "dry" product. Light microscopy studies showed greater structural damage to hair treated with water and the "wet" spray. Tensile tests confirmed that there was greater damage to hair treated with the "wet" spray. Decreases in Young's modulus were greater in the presence of the "wet" spray. The results of this study suggest that the type of damage caused by heat treatments is different in wet versus dry hair. In dry hair, thermal treatments cause chemical damage and some structural damage. However, in wet hair, thermal treatments cause the same chemical damage, but considerably more structural damage, which causes significant changes in the physical properties of the hair. It is likely that the rapid evaporation of water from the hair is the main causal factor. Our experiments suggest that the effectiveness of commercial heat-protection sprays can be improved by the removal of water and by the use of volatile ingredients, such as ethanol, as base solvents.

Clinical efficacy of facial masks containing yoghurt and Opuntia humifusa Raf. (F-YOP).

Abstract: Facial packs or masks are popular beauty treatments that are thought to improve skin quality. We formulated a yoghurt pack using natural ingredients (F-YOP), with consideration of skin affinity, safety, health, and beauty. Then, we performed an in vitro assessment of biological activity and in vivo assessments of moisture, TEWL, melanin content, and elasticity. Facial areas treated with F-YOP showed increased moisture compared to control regions: 89±6.26% (forehead), 140.72±10.19% (cheek), and 123.29±6.67% (chin). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values were decreased in the treated areas compared to control: 101.38±6.95% (forehead), 50.37±5.93% (cheek), and l57.81±10.88% (chin). Elasticity was decreased in the control region, whereas the treatment region did not change. The initial elasticity was maintained in the cheek. F-YOP exhibited activity on DPPH radical scavenging, SOD-like activity, and lipoxygenase activity. F-YOP treatment successfully improved the moisture, brightness, and elasticity of treated skin.

Anionic/cationic complexes in hair care.

Abstract: The formulation of cosmetic products is always more complicated than studying the individual components in aqueous solution. This is because there are numerous interactions between the components, which make the formulation truly more than the sum of the parts. This article will look at interactions between anionic and cationic surfactants and offer insights into how to use these interactions advantageously in making formulations.

Thermal styling: efficacy, convenience, damage tradeoffs.

Abstract: We introduce a simple method to explore the effi cacy of thermal styling, By using a temperature gradient curling iron we rapidly explore a range of thermal treatment conditions. The thermodynamic literature on the glass transition in keratin fi bers explains the surprisingly limited role of elevated temperature in improvements in the effi cacy of holding the styled curvature of the fi bers. The onset of damage, however, is strongly temperature dependent. This combination of measurements of damage and effi cacy shows the range of conditions over which thermal protection products must be functional.

Hair breakage by combing and brushing--a comment on: T. A. Evans and K. Park, A statistical analysis of hair breakage. II. Repeated grooming experiments, J. Cosmet. Sci., 41, 439-456 (2010).

Abstract: Literature dealing with the mechanisms of hair breakage in combing and brushing published so far has been reviewed as a background for the critical evaluation of the method and data analysis of the paper “Statistical Analysis of Hair Breakage. II” by Evans and Park (1). Accumulated knowledge about hair breakage in these grooming processes indicates that hair breakage in combing and brushing results from tangling, looping, knotting, and impact loading. Fatiguing, though responsible for some weakening of the fi ber in the grooming process, it is unlikely to be a signifi cant factor in hair breakage in combing and brushing.

Hair breakage index: An alternative tool for damage assessment of human hair

Abstract: Improper hair care, mechanical abrasion, sun damage and chemical treatment changes the physical and morphological characteristics of hair. Several methods involving microscopic techniques, protein loss and assessment of tensile properties of the hair are generally used to evaluate the extent of damage caused. These are also used to determine the protective effect of hair care products. In the present investigation, the hair breakage index (HBI) was used as an alternative tool to determine the change in the properties of hair on weathering. HBI is a measure of the diameter of hair in a given cross sectional area of a marked region of hair on the scalp. The hair diameter changes as we progress towards the tip of the hair due to breakage. The ratio of the diameter of hair bundle in the distal region to the diameter of hair bundle in the proximal region from the scalp is used as an indicator of hair breakage. Higher HBI value is an indicator of hair damage.A study was conducted for duration of 16 weeks to assess the effect of weathering due to grooming practices on HBI values. The HBI and break stress for a group of 30 subjects were measured at baseline and at the end of 16 weeks (NU). Since Coconut oil (CNO) is known to have a positive benefit on tensile properties of hair, another matched group of 30 subjects who oiled their hair daily with CNO was used as a positive control (CNO). The HBI and break stress for this group were also measured at the baseline and after 16 weeks. It was observed that the HBI significantly increased in the NU group versus the CNO user group. The break stress also significantly decreased in the NU group suggesting its correlation with the HBI data. This study demonstrates the usefulness of HBI as a simple and effective tool for determining hair damage and its protection by different hair care products.

Freshness evaluation of refreshing creams: influence of two types of peppermint oil and emulsion formulation.

Abstract: The aim of the present work was to study the influence of emulsion composition and two types of peppermint oil (common and dementholated) on freshness perception (skin feel) of refreshing creams, as evaluated by trained assessors and two consumer panels. Both common peppermint oil (PO) and dementholated peppermint oil (DPO) were added in a 1% concentration to two base emulsions formulated with high (emulsion A) and low (emulsion B) concentration of apolar components. The samples' freshness was evaluated by a panel of trained assessors and by consumers. Results showed that the freshness sensation was higher when formulation B was considered, which indicates that its low proportion of apolar components might have enhanced peppermint oil liberation and penetration into the skin, increasing freshness perception. On the other hand, no significant differences in freshness intensity after 5 min of application were found between creams formulated containing DPO or PO, suggesting that other components different from menthol might have contributed to the immediate perception of freshness. Results from the present work showed that emulsion formulation has a great effect on freshness perception, suggesting that different formulations should be considered and tested when developing refreshing cosmetics.

Fiber orientation measurement using polarization imaging.

Abstract: Synopsis In this paper, we present a new technique to determine the orientation of hair fi ber, a key parameter in the evaluation of visual appearance of hair. Using polarization imaging and image analysis tools, we are able to measure the orientation of hair fi ber for each pixel in the image. A theoretical analysis of the optical set-up is presented. Experimental data on a single fi ber, hair tress, and complete head are given. Application to shampoo and conditioner is also demonstrated.

Prevention of hair surface aging

Abstract: The hydrophobic character of the surface of human hair is particularly attributed to the lipid components of the epicuticle and to a layer of covalently bound fatty acids. This outer f-layer mainly consists of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), which is covalently bound to the underlying protein matrix, forming the epicuticle as composite surface structure. Daily weathering and chemical treatments, specifically oxidative bleaching, decrease the hydrophobicity of the outer hair surface drastically.Multiple daily stress, simulated by an automatic test device including shampooing, blow drying and sun light exposure, changed the lipid composition of hair significantly. A marked loss of 18-MEA was observed. Decreasing contact angles are the direct consequence. A new method to determine the "pseudo-static" contact angle on hair was developed. The results correlate with the corresponding data obtained by dynamic contact angle measurements according to Wilhelmy. Besides that, the resorption time of water droplets by the hair surface provides additional information about the intactness of the outer f-layer.Specific proteolipids, which are lipid-modified keratins, are able to reconstruct the surface layer of damaged hair by creating renewed surface hydrophobicity and extending the water resorption time by the hair surface.

A study of the distribution of polymer/surfactant coacervate between solution and foam in archetypal shampoo systems.

Abstract: Synopsis The research reported here attempted to answer the question, “is the foam important in delivering coacervates from shampoos.” In order to answer this question, we have measured the amount of polymer in the foam and in the liquid phases of several cationic polymer/anionic surfactant systems by gravimetry and by FTIR techniques. In all cases studied, we discovered that the concentration of solids and, especially the polymer, in the liquid phase and in the foam phase were essentially the same. We conclude that the foam is unlikely to be an important factor in the topical delivery of polymer/surfactant coacervates.

Genotoxic potential evaluation of a cosmetic insoluble substance by the micronuclei assay.

Abstract: An optical brightener (OB) powder (INCI: sodium silicoaluminate (and) glycidoxypropyl trimethyloxysilane/PEI-250 cross fluorescent brightener 230 salt (and) polyvinylalcohol crosspolymer) that is used in cosmetic facial products was tested for its genotoxic potential using the micronuclei test (MNT). It is a solid dry powder with an average size of 5 microns that is insoluble but dispersible in water. This study describes the exposure of cell culture to positive controls with and without enzymatic activation and to the test compound in different concentrations. We evaluated three end points: microscopic observation and quantification of micronuclei formation, and cell viability and proliferation. Both positive controls induced significant changes that were observed under the microscope and quantified. Based on its chemical nature, it was not anticipated that the test substance will degrade under the conditions of the experiments. However, the test is required to make sure that when solublized, impurities that may be present, even at trace levels, will not induce a genotoxic effect. The test compound did not promote micronuclei formation or change the viability or proliferation rate of cells. During this study we faced challenges such as solubilization and correlating viability data to genotoxicity data. These are described in the body of the paper. We believe that with the emergence of the 7(th) European amendment that bans animal testing, sharing these data and the study protocol serves as a key in building the understanding of the utilization of in vitro studies in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients.

Elaboration, characterization, and stability study of a sunscreen emulsion for use as a towelette application in pediatric photoprotection.

Abstract: The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that as much as 80% of the solar radiation that an adult receives throughout his/her life is received during the first 18 years (1). Skin protection against harmful solar radiation during this early stage of life is therefore a highly important factor in the prevention of future skin-related diseases. In this respect, recent developments in pediatric dermatology and cosmetic technology have led to remarkable improvements in child skin protection products. However, in spite of these scientific breakthroughs, many currently available commercial sunscreen formulations have not been well received by the general public, due to inadequate sensory properties, chemical instability, undesirable side effects, and low effectiveness. These disadvantages are not only attributable to the formulations themselves, active principle, and excipients, but also, to a large extent, galenic aspects. The objective of this work was to develop and characterize a sunscreen emulsion for pediatric use, using a towelette as vehicle, to overcome problems of ineffectiveness and formulation instability, and to improve skin-sensory properties. The composition of the towelette, the emulsion, and the presentation format were selected on the basis of the differences between children's and adult skin. In order to evaluate the chemical stability of the formulation, a study of the organoleptic, physicochemical, microbiological, and rheological characteristics was carried out at 4°, 25°, and 40°C over a period of 30 days. Tests were performed on both the sunscreen emulsion only and the same formulation impregnated within a towel, to test the influence the towel may have on the stability of the emulsion.

From conditioning shampoo to nanomechanics and haptics of human hair.

Abstract: Shampoo treatment and hair conditioning have a direct impact on our wellbeing via properties like combability and haptic perception of hair. Therefore, systematic investigations leading to quality improvement of hair care products are of major interest. The aim of our work is a better understanding of complex testing and the correlation with quantitative parameters. The motivation for the development of physical testing methods for hair feel relates to the fact that an ingredient supplier like BASF can only find new, so far not yet toxicologically approved chemistries for hair cosmetics, if an in-vitro method exists.In this work, the effects of different shampoo treatments with conditioning polymers are investigated. The employed physical test method, dry friction measurements and AFM observe friction phenomena on a macroscopic as well as on a nanoscale directly on hair. They are an approach to complement sensoric evaluation with an objective in-vitro method.