Showing papers in "Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2019"

Relationship Between Cosmetics Use, Self-Esteem, and Self-Perceived Attractiveness Among Lebanese Women.

Abstract: The objective was to assess the variables related to the usage of cosmetic products among a representative sample of the Lebanese population, including self-perception, facial attractiveness satisfaction, body image, and self-esteem. This is a cross-sectional study, conducted between January 2018 and June 2018, which enrolled 2,072 female participants using a proportionate random sample from all Lebanese Mohafazat. The results of a linear regression, taking the customary cosmetic usage score as the dependent variable, showed that an increase in the self-esteem score (β = -0.21) and being of Muslim religion compared with Christianity (β = -1.39) were significantly associated with lower cosmetic usage score. On another hand, an increase in the appearance orientation (AO) score (β = 0.55) and having a high (β = 2.18) and an intermediate (β = 0.99) socioeconomic status compared with a low one were associated with a higher cosmetic usage score respectively. According to our study, the use of cosmetic products by Lebanese women is associated with many factors such as AO, self-esteem, socioeconomic status, religion, and marital status. These results can open a window to other studies that might consider the relationship between personality traits, depression, and anxiety with the frequency of makeup use.

Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles in Sunscreens: A Review of Toxicological Data.

Abstract: The positive effects of sunlight have been known for many years, and the negative ones, too. Sunscreens are physical and chemical UV absorbers. Nanotechnology has developed nanoparticles of physical blockers: titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO). Their smaller diameter and increased bioreactivity are the focus of many toxicological studies. The usage of sunscreens has increased around the world, so all toxicological aspects should be carefully considered. There are in vitro and in vivo studies: studies on animal and human skin; investigations of potential genotoxicity and cytotoxicity; generation of reactive oxygen species; penetration; skin irritation; acute, subchronic, and chronic toxicity; and carcinogenesis. The experimental conditions of these studies differ from study to study, but most authors agree that there is no penetration of nanoparticles into viable skin layers. Risk-benefit analysis of TiO2 and ZnO nanoparticles (NPs) usage in sunscreens strongly indicates that potential risks are vastly outweighed over the benefits. Because of the results of some authors indicating possible penetration through damaged skin, further studies should be conducted, primarily addressed on skin penetration mechanisms.

Antioxidant, UV Protection, and Antiphotoaging Properties of Anthocyanin-Pigmented Lipstick Formulations.

Abstract: Consumer demand for foods and cosmetics containing naturally derived ingredients has been increasing. Naturally derived anthocyanins (ACNs), from fruits and vegetables, were previously demonstrated to provide a wide range of hues as lipstick colorants with high stability. Therefore, the objective of this study was to evaluate the use of ACNs as bioactive pigments in lipstick formulations. Commercially available sources of nonacylated and acylated derivatives of the six major ACN aglycones were incorporated into a commercial lipstick base. The ACN-containing lipsticks were evaluated for their ability to act as ultraviolet (UV) absorbers [a source of sun protection factor (SPF)], free radical scavengers against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and preventers of melanin formation through tyrosinase inhibition. All formulas showed increased UV absorption over the lipstick base, and acylated ACNs contributed to the highest in vitro SPF (UVB) values (≥15.8) in formulations. All formulas exhibited high inhibition of DPPH free radicals and inhibition of melanin production by tyrosinase at microgram per milligram concentrations similar to or less than kojic acid (2.41 ± 0.06 µg/mg). This is physiologically relevant because lipstick use is on average 24 mg/day. This study suggests the potential for ACNs to be used as biologically active ingredients in lipstick formulations by acting as antioxidants and UV-protection and antiaging compounds.

Optimization of the Surface Activity of Biosurfactant-Surfactant Mixtures.

Abstract: The impact that rhamnolipid (RL) and sophorolipid (SL) biosurfactants has on solution surface activity when used in conjunction with the commercially important zwitterionic surfactant cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is highlighted for the first time through surface tension and surface rheology measurements on binary and ternary mixtures of these surfactants. It was observed that in both the binary (CAPB/RL) and the ternary (CAPB/RL/SL) mixtures, RL tends to dominate at the air-water interface and primarily control both surface tension and surface elasticity behavior. Significant reduction of surface tension and enhancement of surface elasticity is observed as a result of the competitive adsorbtion/dominance of the RL at the air-water interface and this leads to performance enhancements in terms of foam stability.

Comparing Surfactant Penetration into Human Skin and Resulting Skin Dryness Using In Vivo and Ex Vivo Methods.

Abstract: Numerous tests have been developed to estimate a surfactant's mildness in rinse-off formulations. In this study, mixed surfactant systems were examined for their impact on surfactant penetration into the skin and skin hydration using in vivo and ex vivo methods. A forearm controlled application test (FCAT) was conducted, and skin hydration was evaluated using corneometry and visual dryness grading. Tape strip and cup scrub extractions were completed within the FCAT to examine the penetration of five individual surfactants into the skin in vivo. The ratio of surfactant mass extracted by five pooled tape strips to surfactant mass extracted by cup scrubs was found to be in the range of 40-59%. Furthermore, cup scrub collection and analysis was less time-consuming and less expensive to conduct than tape stripping. Thus, we recommend cup scrub extraction as a suitable substitute for tape stripping in future surfactant skin penetration analyses. In vivo results were compared with ex vivo 14C-sodium dodecyl sulfate (14C-SDS) penetration into human cadaver skin from the same surfactant systems. In vivo measurements conducted in the FCAT, including corneometer reading, visual dryness score, and individual surfactant (sodium laureth (1) ether sulfate and cocamidopropyl betaine) extracted from the skin, were found to correlate well with 14C-SDS penetration into the skin ex vivo for anion-based surfactant systems. Thus, 14C-SDS skin penetration may be a useful preclinical test for skin dryness induced by rinse-off products containing anionic surfactants.

Facile Synthesis of Titanium Phosphates from Ilmenite Mineral Sand: Potential White Pigments for Cosmetic Applications.

Abstract: Ilmenite mineral sand was used to synthesize titanium bismonohydrogen orthophosphate monohydrate, Ti(HPO4)2·H2O, and titanium phosphate, TiP2O7, two white pigments suitable in cosmetic applications. Ti(HPO4)2·H2O was obtained after digesting ilmenite in 85% phosphoric acid at 150 °C for 5 hours. On standing, unreacted ilmenite and white Ti(HPO4)2·H2O solid separated into two layers and Ti(HPO4)2·H2O was calcined at 900 °C to obtain the crystalline TiP2O7. Chemical and morphological characteristics were investigated using X-ray diffraction, transmission electron microscopy, scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy dispersive X-ray analysis, Fourier-transform infrared, and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopic techniques. The water retention (WR) capacities were measured at a relative humidity of 57% and indicate that Ti(HPO4)2·H2O and TiP2O7 have increased WR ability when compared with the pigment grade (PG) TiO2. The optical properties of Ti(HPO4)2·H2O, TiP2O7, and PG-TiO2 were compared using Ultraviolet-visible diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. The relative photoactivity of Ti(HPO4)2·H2O and TiP2O7 was determined using a chemical method based on the photobleaching behavior of a stable radical, 1,1-diphenyl 2-picrylhydrazyl. The photoactivities of Ti(HPO4)2·H2O and TiP2O7 are lower than that of PG-TiO2.

Effect of Palmitic Acid Conjugation on Physicochemical Properties of Peptide KTTKS: A Preformulation Study.

Abstract: Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (KTTKS) minimally crosses the skin because of hydrophilicity; therefore, its palmitoyl derivative, palmitoyl-KTTKS (Pal-KTTKS), is used in cosmetic products. In spite of this, there is insuffi cient information on its physicochemical properties and the effects of palmitoylation on such properties. The aim of this study was to investigate these properties. Such information would help appropriate formulation development. KTTKS and Pal-KTTKS were synthesized and characterized for ultra violet (UV) absorption, structure [X-ray diffraction (XRD)], morphology (electron microscopy), birefringence (polarized light microscopy), partitioning,solubility, thermal behavior (melting, thermogravimetric analysis, and differential scanning calorimetry), surface activity, critical micelle concentration (CMC, by tensiometry), and stability. KTTKS and Pal-KTTKS decomposed at about 154 and 150°C, respectively, and did not show a melting point before decomposition. The maximum UV absorbance of peptides was less than 200 nm. Both peptides showed birefringence, irregular flake morphologies, and hygroscopicity. KTTKS was freely soluble in water at room temperature (logP = -1.6 ± 0.15), indicating its hydrophilic nature. logP of Pal-KTTKS was calculated to be about 3.7, indicating a lipophilic compound. Pal-KTTKS showed surface activity with a CMC value of 0.024 ± 0.004 mM (19.25 ± 2.9 mg/L),whereas KTTKS did not show such surface activity. Palmitoylation demonstrated sharp peaks in the XRD pattern of KTTKS. KTTKS and Pal-KTTKS differ mainly in terms of chemical properties and show some similarity in physical properties. These results can be used for formulation developments.

Utilization of Coffee Silverskin By-Product from Coffee Roasting Industry through Extraction Process for the Development of Antioxidant Skin Gel

Abstract: Coffee roasting industries generate a by-product called coffee silverskin that is usually disposed of as waste. The valorization of this abundant waste is necessary because of the antioxidant compounds in coffee silverskin. In this study, coffee silverskin was extracted in different extraction conditions to obtain an extract with high antioxidant activity and to use it as an additive for antioxidant skin gel. The extracts were characterized for the total phenolic content by using the Folin-Ciocalteu method. The antioxidant activity was determined by using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free radical scavenging assay. It was found that the extraction time and temperature strongly affected the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the extracts. The extraction at 40°C and 60 min resulted in an extract with a high total phenolic content of 31.15 ± 2.77 mg Gallic Acid Equivalent/g coffee silverskin and a high antioxidant activity of 68.44 ± 0.76%. The extract solution was spray-dried to produce extract powder, which was then added to a basic skin gel with different extract concentrations. It was observed that the antioxidant activity of the gel increased with increasing extract concentration in the gel. This result showed that coffee silverskin has great potential as a source of antioxidants for various skin care products.

Evaluating the Moisturizing Abilities and Sun Protection Factor of New Lip Balm Formulations.

Abstract: This report explores dry-skin models to assess the potential of a new lip balm formulation to hydrate dry skin or lips, and presents sun protection factor (SPF) values for five new lip balm formulations. Evaporimeter [for transepidermal water loss (TEWL)], Skicon®, and Corneometer® were used to measure hydrating effects of lip balm formulations in a dry-skin leg model, and TEWL, DermaLab® Moisture Meter, Corneometer®, and visual assessments were used with a dry-lip model. SPF studies were conducted in accordance with either the U.S. Food and Drug Administration monograph final rule or international standard ISO 24444. Data from dry-skin leg model demonstrate that a new lip balm formulation significantly improves skin hydration compared with untreated leg skin and four comparator products. Data obtained from a dry-lip model proved unreliable. Five new lip balm formulations exhibited sunscreen capability; however, they did not meet the intended SPF. There were no product-related adverse events with the formulations. Although the new lip balm formulation improved hydration, data from a novel dry-lip model proved unreliable therefore further testing is required to confirm these benefits. Five new lip balm formulations provided sunscreen capability but did not meet the intended SPF, and will undergo reformulation and retesting.

Microbiological Tests of Natural Limonene and the Compounds Obtained after Isomerization of Limonene in the Presence of Ti-SBA-15 Catalyst-α-Terpinene, γ-Terpinene, Terpinolene, and p-Cymene

Abstract: The antimicrobial properties of natural limonene and the compounds obtained after isomerization of limonene (α-terpinene, γ-terpinene, terpinolene, and p-cymene) were studied. The following microorganisms were selected for the tests: Gram-negative bacteria Escherichia coli K12 (ACCT 25922), Gram-positive Staphylococcus epidermidis (ACCT 49461), yeast fungi Candida albicans, and fungi Trichophyton rubrum, Aspergillus niger, Penicillium commune, Trichoderma viride, and Cladosporium cladosporioides. During the studies, terpinolene showed the highest activity, and therefore, this compound was chosen for the preparation of therapeutic creams (content of terpinolene: 0.5 and 2 wt%). The obtained creams were active in the microbiological tests even at the lowest content of terpinolene. The mixture of products obtained after the isomerization of limonene also showed antimicrobial activity. Probably, in the future, this mixture of products can be used as a potential and relatively inexpensive ingredient in therapeutic and protective creams that can be applied for the relief of skin lesions and in the treatment of acne or atopic dermatitis.

Does Salt and Mineral Content of Dead Sea Mud Affect Its Irritation Potential: A Laser Doppler Flowmetry Study.

Abstract: The aim of the study was to investigate skin microcirculation, flux, and temperature changes induced by the application of Dead Sea mud (DSM) formulas with different mud salts and mineral contents using laser Doppler flowmetry. Instrumental analysis of eight over-the-shelf DSM products and four different samples of nonformulated Dead Sea mud were carried out to determine their contents of various salts and elements, including K, Na, Cl, Mg, Mn, Ca, SO3, SiO2, Al, Br, Fe, Hg, Cr, Co, Ni, Cu, Zn, As, Cd, Pb, and Sr. Three DSM samples with different levels of salts were then used to study the influence of salt content on skin irritation potential using laser Doppler flowmetry. Fifteen healthy nonsmoking females aged 18-45 years participated in the study. Subjects were randomly assigned to either "Salted" mud group (n = 5), "As is" mud group (n = 5), or "Over-the-Shelf" mud group (n = 5). Five circular areas were marked on the ventral aspect of each forearm. One forearm was assigned randomly for mud treatment and the other forearm was untreated. Ten milliliters of mud was applied on the assigned forearm and left for 30 minutes. Two reading protocols were designed and used to study the effects of tested type of mud on skin blood flux and temperature during mud application (protocol 2) as well as before and after mud removal (protocol 1). All types of tested mud were not associated with a significant measurable elevation in skin temperature and skin blood flow. All types of Dead Sea mud did not cause detectable microcirculatory and skin temperature changes regardless of their different mineral and salts contents.

Clinical Skin Mildness Evaluations of Direct and Indirect Exposure to Two Commercial Laundry Detergents with Markedly Different pH Designed for Sensitive Skin Using a Hand-Laundering Model.

Abstract: The skin mildness of two commercial laundry detergents designed for sensitive skin, Tide Free and Gentle® (TFG) versus All Free Clear® (AFC), was compared in clinical studies, and the role of marked product pH differences was assessed. Two double-blind randomized human studies were conducted. Study 1 was a 1-day repeat insult forearm test, in which four exposures to solutions of TFG or AFC were performed to mimic direct exposure to dilute detergent during hand-laundering. Corneometer, erythema and dryness grading, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin surface pH evaluations were carried out. Study 2 was a 21-day arm patch test of fabrics washed with TFG or AFC to mimic indirect contact to skin of detergent residues, with erythema grading. Separately, pH and reserve alkalinity were determined for each detergent. In Study 1, TFG was significantly milder than AFC in all measures except TEWL (no significant difference). In Study 2, the detergents were approximately equivalent in erythema grading. Analysis showed AFC was substantially more alkaline (pH 10.8) than TFG (pH 7.9) with higher reserve alkalinity. TFG was significantly milder than AFC in Study 1, which may be due in part to the increased skin surface pH seen with direct exposure to AFC's high alkalinity.

Influence of Sex Ratio and Density on the Comparative Repellency of IR3535® Against Caged Aedes, Anopheles, and Culex Mosquitoes.

Abstract: Studies on topical repellent efficacy conducted with caged mosquitoes in the laboratory are important to both the development and regulation of insect repellents. Guidelines for laboratory studies stipulate specific densities, sex ratios, and biting rates, whereas those for field studies are governmentally required before a promising repellent can be registered for human use. These protocols stipulate minimum biting rates alone. Relatively little is known, however, about the influence of mosquito density and sex ratio on their biting propensity, either in the field or laboratory. Using Environmental Protection Agency guidelines for cage testing, we studied the influence of mosquito density and sex ratio in laboratory repellency tests of the biopesticide Ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate (IR3535™) (20%) against three mosquito species (Aedes aegypti, Anopheles aquasalis, and Culex quinquefasciatus). DEET [3-(N-acetyl-N-butyl) aminopropionic acid ethyl ester] (20%) in a laboratory prepared formulation was used as a comparison article. Studies were conducted by trained investigators at the BioAgri Laboratories in Brazil. We found that higher mosquito density generally decreased protection time, but that the influence of sex ratio was more complex. The presence of male mosquitoes increased protection times against Aedes and Anopheles perhaps because mate-seeking males interfered with female feeding. Interestingly, by contrast, protection times decreased against Culex in the presence of males. Such considerations may potentially assist in improving the match between cage and field testing under a broader range of conditions that permit more accurate labeling of repellents for safe and effective use by consumers.

Disparate SPF Testing Methodologies Generate Similar SPFs. II. Analysis of P2 Standard Control SPF Data.

Abstract: In the original scientific publication evaluating sunscreen methodologies, Garzarella and Caswell showed there to be no clinically significant or statistically significant difference in the average Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of a sunscreen formulation between any of three methodologies, Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Final Monograph, Australia/New Zealand, and European Cosmetics Association (COLIPA) International, suggesting that any differences in methodology were insignificant in the resulting SPF determined. These three major older methodologies have coalesced into two methodologies, 2011 FDA-Final Rule and ISO 24444, so that current sunscreen SPF testing is mostly 2011 FDA-Final Rule and ISO 24444. Another approach to evaluating the impact of methodological differences in sunscreen testing is to compare data on a control standard or reference sunscreen. If the difference between the two SPF values of P2 is statistically significant for the two different methodologies, then this would present evidence for a clinically significant difference in the SPF value between the two methodologies. For 2011 FDA-Final Rule, the expected SPF of P2 is 16.3 ± 3.43; for ISO 24444, the expected SPF of P2 is 16.1 ± 2.42. Using least squares average and standard error on 952 observations, the 2011 FDA-Final Rule SPF of P2 is 15.4 ± 0.12; using least squares average and standard error on 1,551 observations, the ISO 24444 SPF of P2 is 15.6 ± 0.10. The data described herein indicate no clinically significant nor statistically significant difference between the SPF average of P2 using the 2011 FDA-Final Rule methodology versus that using ISO 24444 methodology. Further statistical analysis indicates that the average SPF of P2 is independent of solar simulator type, time of year (month), age of subject, gender of subject, or Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype of subject. A statistically significant negative correlation was found between a subject's SPF of P2 and the subject's unprotected minimal erythemal dose. The implications of this relationship on SPF testing are explored.

Protective Effects of Sacran, a Natural Polysaccharide, Against Adverse Effects on the Skin Induced by Tobacco Smoke.

Abstract: Recent increases in air pollution have raised concerns about its adverse effects on human health. Sacran is a natural polysaccharide isolated from a cyanobacterium. We previously reported that sacran improves skin conditions because of its effects as an artificial barrier against external stimuli, which suggested that sacran might protect the skin against air pollutants. The goal of this study was to characterize the potential of sacran to protect human skin against damage from air pollutants and to compare sacran with hyaluronic acid (HA). Sacran that was topically applied on the skin stayed on the surface or in the stratum corneum. Sacran-treated filters had a shielding effect against benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) and aldehyde compounds contained in tobacco smoke. Sacran suppressed the upregulation of cytochrome P4501A1 messenger ribonucleic acid (mRNA), which is a xenobiotic-metabolizing enzyme induced by BaP, and other responses against tobacco smoke in HaCaT keratinocytes. Furthermore, topical application of a serum containing 0.04% sacran on the skin reduced levels of carbonylated proteins in corneocytes of tobacco smokers. Sacran showed superior effects in every characteristic measured, compared with HA. We conclude that sacran ameliorates the oxidative stress initiated by tobacco smoke by shielding the skin surface and protects human skin.