Showing papers in "Journal of The Textile Institute Transactions in 1965"
TL;DR: In this article, the dependence of the drape of fabrics on bending stiffness and shear stiffness has been investigated, and the regression coefficients of drape coefficients were used as a measure of the fabric drape.
Abstract: The dependence of the drape of fabrics on bending stiffness and shear stiffness has been investigated A version of the Fabric Research Laboratories Drapemeter is described, and the drape coefficient obtained is used as a measure of the fabric drape The regression of the drape coefficient on bending length for a large number of fabrics was highly significant, and the addition of shear stiffness to the regression made a highly significant difference The regression equations provide the relations between the variables for the conditions used Theoretical values of drape coefficient for zero shear stiffness were lower than the measured values
157 citations
TL;DR: In this article, it was shown experimentally that the geometrical properties of worsted 1 × 1 rib fabrics can be described by sets of k values similar to those used for plain-knitted fabrics.
Abstract: It is shown experimentally that, for practical purposes, the geometrical properties of worsted 1 × 1 rib fabrics can be described by sets of k values similar to those used for plain-knitted fabrics. The results obtained are fitted to a simple model of the 1 × 1 rib stitch based on Leaf's model of the plain-knitted loop, and some causes and effects of deviation from this model are discussed.
52 citations
52 citations
TL;DR: The coaxial-helix theory as discussed by the authors assumes that the paths of all the filaments in a continuous-filament yarn are identical, except for a displacement along, and rotation about, the yarn axis.
Abstract: The theory is based on the assumption that the paths of all the filaments in a continuous-filament yarn are identical, except for a displacement along, and rotation about, the yarn axis. The path of the single filament is characterized by a regular periodic migration between the axis and the periphery; the form of this path is derived on the basis of the assumption of a uniform packing density. The equations by which the path is defined involve two dimensionless parameters, one related to the twist and the other to the period of migration. Formulae are derived for the retraction on twisting, and for the stress-strain curve, for yarns in which migration occurs. These are shown to reduce to the corresponding formulae derived from the coaxial-helix theory in the limiting case when the rate of migration is small. Numerical examples are worked out to show the effect of the rate of migration on the retraction and the stress. From these results it is concluded that for rates of migration in the range likely to b...
43 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, scaled-down versions of the classical Searle's apparatus are described in detail, and means of avoiding possible errors are indicated; the importance of measuring the linear density of individual specimens is discussed, and an instrument is described which facilitates the length measurement and mounting of the specimens under a standard tension.
Abstract: Scaled-down versions of the classical Searle's apparatus are described in detail, and means of avoiding possible errors are indicated. The importance of measuring the linear density of individual specimens is discussed, and an instrument is described which facilitates the length measurement and mounting of the specimens under a standard tension. Rigidity and modulus data are tabulated for twenty-seven samples embracing a range of fibre types.
31 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of changes in loop length and yarn diameter on the physical properties of wet-relaxed fabrics are investigated, and the results are discussed with reference to the cover factors of the fabrics studied.
Abstract: The effects of changes in loop length and yarn diameter on the physical proproperties of wet-relaxed fabrics are investigated, and the results are discussed with reference to the cover factors of the fabrics studied. The widthwise extension of 1 × 1 rib fabrics is examined in detail, and the model of the rib stitch obtained in Part I of this series1 is used in an attempt to account for the observed extension in terms of the properties of the yarn and the geometry of the fabrics.
25 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, Treloar and Riding applied the energy method to the derivation of the corresponding properties of continuous-filament cords of 2-ply, 3-ply and 7-ply construction.
Abstract: The energy method, previously used for the derivation of the stress–strain properties of continuous-filament yarns (Treloar and Riding, J. Text. Inst., 1963, 54, T156), is applied to the derivation of the corresponding properties of continuous-filament cords of 2-ply, 3-ply and 7-ply construction. The calculations make use of the author's theory of the cord geometry (Treloar, J. Text. Inst., 1956, 47, T348) whereby the torsion in the ply may be obtained from the twist in the original single yam and the geometrical parameters of the cord. The material properties are introduced in the form of the stress–strain curve of the filament material, as obtained experimentally. Equations are derived for the stress–strain properties of the cord in terms of experimentally observable parameters; these are presented in a form suitable for numerical computation.
23 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a series of physiological investigations aimed at assessing the value of sorption heat to the wearer were performed on groups of men wearing clothing assemblies of matched construction made from fabrics having very large differences in regain characteristics, namely, wool and Terylene.
Abstract: This paper gives the historical background of sorption heat in textile materials and makes an appreciation of the physics of the phenomenon, together with its physiological implications. Details are given both of the laboratory evaluation of the ‘comfort’ properties of the fabrics or garments used and of a series of physiological investigations aimed at assessing the value of sorption heat to the wearer. The physiological experiments were performed on groups of men wearing clothing assemblies of matched construction made from fihres having very large differences in regain characteristics, namely, wool and Terylene. The conditions under which experiments were made were as follows: at rest in simulated environments (indoor conditions 68°F (20°0) and 43% r.h., outdoor damp–cold at 43°F (6·1°C and 93% r.h.; as in (1) with a 5-miles/hr turbulent wind; sweating from work in a cool environment (58°F (14·4°C) and 50% r.h.); a sweating slightly at rest in a hot–dry environment (88°F (31·l°C) and 26% r.h.) and then...
17 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a theoretical model is presented that depicts the major factors contributing to the mean strength of single worsted yarns, based upon essential concepts introduced by Sullivan in 1942, including extensions that have been found necessary to give an accurate representation of the strength of such yarns.
Abstract: A theoretical model is presented that depicts the major factors contributing to the mean strength of singles worsted yarns. Based upon essential concepts introduced by Sullivan in 1942, the formulae include extensions that have been found necessary to give an accurate representation of the strength of such yarns. The most important new concept is that of an ‘ineffective’ outer layer of fibres that does not contribute directly to the strength of the yarn, though it could play a part in initiating the development of lateral pressures within the structure. It is this latter process which, in conjunction with inter-fibre frictional forces, permits a yarn made of staple fibres to function as an effective load-carrying structure.
17 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, an experimental method is described that enables the bending elastic recovery of filaments to be found for a wide range of initial strains for 15-den nylon monofilament.
Abstract: One of the main factors that determine the crease recovery of a fabric is the bending-recovery behaviour of the constituent filaments. An experimental method is described that enables the bending elastic recovery of filaments to be found for a wide range of initial strains. Possible sources of error in the method are discussed and results are presented for 15-den. nylon monofilament.
15 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, an apparatus is described that enables the torsional stress-strain curve and torsion elastic recovery to be found for filaments; this information is required for a study of the crease-recovering process.
Abstract: An apparatus is described that enables the torsional stress–strain curve and the torsional elastic recovery to be found for filaments; this information is required for a study of the crease-recover...
TL;DR: In this paper, the yarn configuration, retraction, diameter, and packing factor for yarns with filament numbers in the range 1-37 were investigated, and a new approach to the definition of yarn diameter was put forward and corroborated by experimental evidence.
Abstract: Yarn geometry, when the number of constituent filaments is small, is studied here with particular reference to yarn configuration, retraction, diameter, and packing factor. It is shown how, for twist factors within the range 20–40, yarn configuration and therefore yarn diameter remain more or less constant. A new approach to the definition of yarn diameter is put forward and corroborated by experimental evidence. A new formula for yarn retraction on twisting is determined for yarns having filament numbers in the range 1–37, and experimental evidence is given to show how it is more applicable than Treloar's formula when the number of filaments is fewer than 37. Two new definitions of packing factor are considered.
TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that pigments present in the suint are responsible for canary coloration in Indian raw wools and that these pigments enter the fibre when the grease content is low.
Abstract: It is shown that pigments present in the suint are responsible for canary coloration in Indian raw wools. These pigments enter the fibre when the grease content is low. The grease content of the fibre and the pigment content of the suint undergo a periodic change, and hence the canary coloration recurs periodically in certain breeds of sheep. Although alkali damage has been observed in the canary-coloured fleeces no correlation was found between the intensity of the canary stain and the alkalinity of the suint.
TL;DR: In this article, between-and within-bale variation of regain, cleanwool yield, vegetable-matter content, and fibre diameter from 23 Australian greasy merino-wool lots sold at auction during 1962-63 are presented.
Abstract: Estimates of between- and within-bale variation of regain, clean-wool yield, vegetable-matter content, and fibre diameter from 23 Australian greasy merino-wool lots sold at auction during 1962–63 are presented. Possible factors affecting the variability of each character are outlined. The application of clean-wool yield estimates for σ2 W and σ2 B to provide an economic core-sampling schedule for individual lots before marketing is discussed.
TL;DR: In this article, within and between-bale variance estimates have been obtained for regain, vegetable-matter content, fibre yield, and fibre thickness based on tests made on single cores with a small-diameter sampling tube from four lots of greasy merino wool of different origin.
Abstract: Some within- and between-bale variance estimates have been obtained for regain, vegetable-matter content, fibre yield, and fibre thickness. The estimates are based on tests made on single cores withdrawn with a small-diameter sampling tube from four lots of greasy merino wool of different origin.
TL;DR: In this article, the theory of the migrating-filament yarn is applied to the calculation of the form of the projection of the path of a filament onto a plane, which is a sinusoidal wave of varying amplitude.
Abstract: The theory of the migrating-filament yarn developed in the previous paper is applied to the calculation of the form of the projection of the path of a filament onto a plane. In this projection (which is a sinusoidal wave of varying amplitude) the distance between successive turning-points does not correspond exactly to one half-turn of twist, and the amplitude does not correspond exactly to the true helix radius. There is thus an apparent variation of twist with apparent radial position, whose magnitude depends on the rate of migration. This effect has been observed by means of the tracer-filament technique. Its magnitude is in agreement with that calculated from the theory, using observed values of the migration parameter.
TL;DR: In this paper, a correlation between Floor Trials on Carpets and Tests on WIRA Dynamic Loading Machines was found. But it was only for the case of floor trials on carpets.
Abstract: (1965) Correlation between Floor Trials on Carpets and Tests on WIRA Dynamic Loading Machine Journal of the Textile Institute Transactions: Vol 56, No 11, pp T646-T648
TL;DR: In this article, the making-up properties of several wool fabrics, differing in structure and finish, have been evaluated and compared with various mechanical properties of the fabrics that were considered to govern their behaviour when they were made into a man's suit, both in the makingup process and in the subsequent life of the garment.
Abstract: The making-up properties of several wool fabrics, differing in structure and finish, have been evaluated and compared with various mechanical properties of the fabrics that were considered to govern their behaviour when they were made into a man's suit, both in the making-up process and in the subsequent life of the garment. The making-up properties were evaluated by the operatives concerned, who classified the fabrics according to the ease with which they could be handled in making-up and their appearance in the finished garment. From the relations observed between evaluated and measured properties, recommendations are made for altering the measurable fkbric properties in order to effect improvements in the evaluated properties.
TL;DR: Treloar and Riding as discussed by the authors showed that the theory based on energy considerations put forward in that paper, and considered in relation to Textile Tenasco yarns, is equally applicable to a wide range of man-made continuous-filament yarns.
Abstract: In a continuation of the work first reported in a previous paper (Treloar and Riding, J. Text. Inst., 1963, 54, T156) it is shown that the theory based on energy considerations put forward in that paper, and considered in relation to Textile Tenasco yarns, is equally applicable to a wide range of man-made continuous-filament yarns. It is found, however, that for Fortisan and hightenacity Terylene there is a serious disagreement between experimental and calculated curves, for which there is no obvious explanation
TL;DR: In this paper, an apparatus is described which measures the work done in disentangling scoured wool by a carding action and the measurements correlate well with the quantity of noil produced on combing.
Abstract: An apparatus is described which measures the work done in disentangling scoured wool by a carding action. For fairly uniform wool types, the measurements correlate well with the quantity of noil produced on combing. Results obtained with the apparatus show that small variations in nozzle pressure in the jet scouring of wool may have a large effect on noil production, but that normal variations in the residual-grease content of scoured wool are unimportant.
TL;DR: The theory put forward by Treloar (Part I) is used to calculate the stressstrain curves of cords of 2-, 3-and 7-fold constructions as discussed by the authors.
Abstract: The theory put forward by Treloar (Part I) is used to calculate the stressstrain curves of cords of 2-, 3- and 7-fold constructions. In each case this is done for one particular singles twist and a range of cord twists (including some in the same direction as the single twist). The calculated curves are then compared with the corresponding experimental curves, the degree of agreement being found to be quite satisfactory.
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects on traveller temperature of traveller speed, coefficient of friction, position on the traveller of point of contact between the ring and traveller, traveller hardness, heat transfer coefficient between the traveller and air, and oxide films on traveller or ring, or both, are studied.
Abstract: The heat and temperature developed on unlubricated travellers is examined theoretically and compared with some experimental results. The effects on traveller temperature of traveller speed, coefficient of friction, position on the traveller of point of contact between the ring and traveller, traveller hardness, heat-transfer coefficient between the traveller and air, and oxide films on the traveller or ring, or both, are studied. A qualitative explanation offered for the rise in traveller temperature associated with traveller vibration, the so-called ‘chatter’, is that the movement of a hot spot on the traveller increases the traveller's share of the total frictional heat.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors defined the opacity of a textile fabric, white or plain-coloured, as the ratio of the values of surface luminance, Y, when it is lying on a black and on a white background: C = Yblack / Ywhite.
Abstract: The opacity, C, of a textile fabric, white or plain-coloured, is defined as the ratio of the values of surface luminance, Y, when it is lying on a black and on a white background: C = Yblack / Ywhite . A simple and convenient method for measuring this quantity is described. The opacity of fabrics classified by end-use is recorded. The dependence of opacity on fabric colour has been shown to agree with expectations based on an approximate theory. The screening of net curtains has been found to depend, not on opacity as defined above, but on a function, TY 2, of the open area, T, and luminance, Y.
TL;DR: Detailed information on elastic recovery is given for times up to 5 min for both secondary cellulose acetate and triacetate, and the recoveries are related to times by linear equations.
Abstract: The measured elastic recoveries of fibres or yarns are sensitive to the times allowed for extension and for recovery. Detailed information on elastic recovery is given for times up to 5 min for both secondary cellulose acetate and triacetate, and the recoveries are related to times by linear equations. Data are also presented on six other fibres, and some comparisons are made with the results of other workers.
TL;DR: In this paper, an attempt is made to widen the application of these distributions to resistance to abrasion and to fatleue by repeated extension of yarns and to fatigue by the repeated bending of fabrics.
Abstract: The application of the first and third asymptotic distributions to the statistical interpretation of fatigue testing of materials has been postulated previously and some contributions concerning certain tests on synthetic-polymer filaments and yarns have been published. In the present work, an attempt is made to widen the application of these distributions to resistance to abrasion and to fatleue by the repeated extension of yarns and to fatigue by the repeated bending of fabrics the hrst and second of these phenomena, the first asymptotic distribution gives a good tit, whereas, for the resistance of yarns to repeated extensions, Weibull's distribution, or the third asymptotic distribution, is the one that seems to give better results, although its application in a general sense is actually satisfactory in all the cases considered. The method of operation of the measuring instrument used which involves complex actions, can justify the observation that, in some cases, one distribution seems to be more conv...
TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that if a top is too "square" (i.e., too uniform in fibre length as shown in a cumulative frequency diagram), it will give an inferior spin; in other words, there is an optimum fibre-length distribution for best spinning performance and yarn properties.
Abstract: The variation in fibre length of a worsted roving has been found to have a significant effect on the spinning properties and on the levelness and strength of the yarn. Contrary to traditional ideas, it has been shown that, if a top is too ‘square’ (i.e., too uniform in fibre length as shown in a cumulative frequency diagram), it will give an inferior spin; in other words, there is an optimum fibre-length distribution for best spinning performance and yarn properties. The drawing and spinning of some 48/50s crossbred and 58/60s fine halfbred tops, produced from wools with various levels of staple strength, are described. Various commercial tops and the yarns spun from them have also been examined. Fibre breakage was least in the lots made from the wools of highest staple strength, which had previously given the best combing performance. However, it was found that these lots (made from wools sorted for length as well as strength) were too uniform in fibre length for optimum spinning performance. Commercial ...
TL;DR: In this article, a study was made of the behaviour of yarns of different fiber configurations when tested for strength at a constant rate of loading on an Uster automatic strength tester.
Abstract: A study has been made of the behaviour of singles worsted yarns of different fibre configurations when tested for strength at a constant rate of loading on an Uster automatic strength tester. The main characteristics observed could be described consistently in terms of the ‘effective linear density’ and ‘effective twist factor’ for the yarns. For normal values of this twist factor, the standard deviation of the strength of the yarn appears to be proportional to the square root of the effective linear density, expressed in tex units. Data are also given that permit the mean percentage elongation to rupture to be estimated.