Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-asce 

About: Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-asce is an academic journal published by American Society of Civil Engineers. The journal publishes majorly in the area(s): Wind wave & Wave propagation. It has an ISSN identifier of 0733-950X. Over the lifetime, 1946 publications have been published receiving 50226 citations. The journal is also known as: ASCE waterway, port, coastal and ocean engineering & ASCE journal of waterway, port, coastal and ocean engineering.

Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation

Abstract: Boussinesq‐type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. Different linear dispersion relations can be obtained by expressing the equations in different velocity variables. In this paper, a new form of the Boussinesq equations is derived using the velocity at an arbitrary distance from the still water level as the velocity variable instead of the commonly used depth‐averaged velocity. This significantly improves the linear dispersion properties of the Boussinesq equations, making them applicable to a wider range of water depths. A finite difference method is used to solve the equations. Numerical and experimental results are compared for the propagation of regular and irregular waves on a constant slope beach. The results demonstrate that the new form of the equations can reasonably simulate several nonlinear effects that occur in the shoaling of surface waves from deep to shallow w...

Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. ii: 2d

Abstract: In this paper, we focus on the implementation and verification of an extended Boussinesq model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions The time-domain numerical model is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations As described in Part I of this two-part paper, the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled by introducing an eddy viscosity term into the momentum equations, with the viscosity strongly localized on the front face of the breaking waves Wave runup on the beach is simulated using a permeable-seabed technique We apply the model to simulate two laboratory experiments in large wave basins They are wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal and solitary wave runup on a conical island Satisfactory agreement is found between the numerical results and the laboratory measurements

Solitary Waves on a Cretan Beach

Abstract: In this paper, we describe experiments and computer simulations of the run-up and return of a solitary wave traveling over shallowing water and then onto a dry beach backed by a vertical wall. This topography is similar to that of beaches on the north coast of Crete, where narrow coastal plains are backed by steeply rising mountains. The experiments show that the solitary wave collapses onto the dry beach without curling over. It then flows to the vertical wall where it rises up, splashes, curls over, and finally returns as a turbulent bore. On reaching the original water's edge, the bore produces a zig-zag surface perturbation. The simulations reproduce the experiments accurately.

Time-Dependent Numerical Code for Extended Boussinesq Equations

Abstract: The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Nwogu (1993) significantly improve the linear dispersive properties of long-wave models in intermediate water depths, making it suitable to simulate wave propagation from relatively deep to shallow water. In this study, a numerical code based on Nwogu's equations is developed. The model uses a fourth-order predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms retained by the model. The basic numerical scheme and associated boundary conditions are described. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable depth, and computed solutions are compared with experimental data. These initial results indicate that the model is capable of simulating wave transformation from relatively deep water to shallow water, giving accurate predictions of the height and shape of shoaled waves in both regular and irregular wave experiments.

A Fifth‐Order Stokes Theory for Steady Waves

Abstract: An alternative Stokes theory for steady waves in water of constant depth is presented where the expansion parameter is the wave steepness itself. The first step in application requires the solution of one nonlinear equation, rather than two or three simultaneously as has been previously necessary. In addition to the usually specified design parameters of wave height, period and water depth, it is also necessary to specify the current or mass flux to apply any steady wave theory. The reason being that the waves almost always travel on some finite current and the apparent wave period is actually a Dopplershifted period. Most previous theories have ignored this, and their application has been indefinite, if not wrong, at first order. A numerical method for testing theoretical results is proposed, which shows that two existing theories are wrong at fifth order, while the present theory and that of Chappelear are correct. Comparisons with experiments and accurate numerical results show that the present theory ...