46—the dependence of fabric drape on bending and shear stiffness
TL;DR: In this article, the dependence of the drape of fabrics on bending stiffness and shear stiffness has been investigated, and the regression coefficients of drape coefficients were used as a measure of the fabric drape.
Abstract: The dependence of the drape of fabrics on bending stiffness and shear stiffness has been investigated A version of the Fabric Research Laboratories Drapemeter is described, and the drape coefficient obtained is used as a measure of the fabric drape The regression of the drape coefficient on bending length for a large number of fabrics was highly significant, and the addition of shear stiffness to the regression made a highly significant difference The regression equations provide the relations between the variables for the conditions used Theoretical values of drape coefficient for zero shear stiffness were lower than the measured values
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TL;DR: A review article of the various experimental approaches used for measuring fabric mechanical properties important in apparel handling, including the biaxial tension and in-plane shear parameters, is presented in this article.
Abstract: This is a review article of the various experimental approaches used for measuring fabric mechanical properties important in apparel handling, including the biaxial tension and in-plane shear parameters. First, the paper discusses the important issues encountered during such a fabric test. Then most existing biaxial tension and shear fabric testers are introduced and critically analyzed. Based on this information, a new tester concept is proposed in which tensile and shear forces can be applied simultaneously.
131 citations
Cites background from "46—the dependence of fabric drape o..."
...Another option for testing cylindrical specimens of permeable fabric is to use some sort of bladder inside the specimen [20]....
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TL;DR: In this article, it is shown how the method of measuring fabric drape by supporting a circular specimen of fabric between smaller horizontal circular plates has been modified to allow a more sensitive test to be made on very stiff and very limp fabrics.
Abstract: It is shown how the method of measuring fabric drape by supporting a circular specimen of fabric between smaller horizontal circular plates has been modified to allow a more sensitive test to be made on very stiff and very limp fabrics. The use of diverging light instead of parallel light is described, and the correction of the results for this change is calculated. A method of determining the drape coefficient by a paper-weighing method is also described.
108 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the relationship between the fabric drape coefficient from the Cusick drapemeter and mechanical properties tested on the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) for woven fabrics is investigated.
Abstract: We investigate the relationship between the fabric drape coefficient from the Cusick drapemeter and mechanical properties tested on the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) for woven fabrics. This is the first attempt at determining a compre hensive relationship between the fabric drape coefficient and mechanical properties. Drape coefficient (DC) is the dependent variable. Sixteen mechanical properties tested on the KES-F system and their transformed forms are the independent variables. Four regression models are proposed: the multiple linear regression of the DC with KES-F original data, Niwa's model, logarithms for KES-F data, and logarithms for both the DC and KES-F data. Except for an initial run with Niwa's model, the mechanical properties correlated to drape coefficient are reduced to three or four by screening out intercor related parameters using stepwise regression. The regression results are analyzed in terms of correlation coefficients, residuals. and T values. The version with logar...
99 citations
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TL;DR: In this article, an instrument is described on which it is possible to measure the angle through which a specimen of cloth droops when a definite length is held out over an edge.
Abstract: In judging the feel or “handle” of a material, use is made of such sensations as stiffness or limpness, hardness or softness, and roughness or smoothness. It is desirable to devise physical tests that analyse and reflect the sensations felt and assign numerical values to the measurements. The present paper describes tests that reflect the first groups of sensations, namely, stiffness and hardness, whilst the sensation that is experienced in stroking a material, obviously connected with frictional properties, will be dealt with in another paper. An instrument is described on which it is possible to measure the angle through which a specimen of cloth droops when a definite length is held out over an edge. By means of a mathematical formula that is fully developed in an appendix to the paper this angle is converted into a term called the bending length of the material. This quantity may be defined as the length of fabric that will bend under its own weight to a definite extent. It is strictly a meas...
605 citations
TL;DR: The textile industry realizes the importance of understanding the phenomenon of drape and is anxious to be able to measure it quantitatively as mentioned in this paper, but none have presented any correlation between the data obtained and subjective evaluations, largely because of the failure to realize that drape may not be determined conclusively by those tests which involve two-dimensional distortions of the fabric samples.
Abstract: is said to have good draping qualities when the configuration is pleasing to the eye. Obviously, then, the word &dquo;drape&dquo; is a qualitative term. The textile industry realizes the importance of understanding the phenomenon of drape and is anxious to be able to measure it quantitatively. Numerous &dquo;drape tests&dquo; have been reported in the literature, but none have presented any correlation between the data obtained and subjective evaluations. This is largely because of the failure to realize that drape may not be determined conclusively by those tests which involve two-dimensional distortions of the fabric samples. (These
147 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the effect of tension on the specimen has been measured and a model is given which may be used to explain the shape of the hysteresis diagrams, and methods of expressing the results are given and the variability of the results have been measured.
Abstract: As part of a study of fabric drape, the fabric-shearing apparatus due to Morner and Eeg-Olofsson has been built and studied. Methods of expressing the results are given and the variability of the results has been measured. The effect of tension on the specimen has been measured and a model is given which may be used to explain the shape of the hysteresis diagrams.
73 citations
TL;DR: The t'tanonex of I)reby as mentioned in this paper measures the deformation in degree at which creasing begins, and is designed to evaluate the stiffness of similar fabrics.
Abstract: F()IZ fabrics in ordinary use it may be assumed that the stresses applied are small. A suit, for instance, must follow the wearer’s movements without uncomfortable hindrance. The fact that relatively large deformations may be produced 1>v small -,tresses i....1B1(’ to the pliability of fabric structures. Small forces can alter the angle between warp and weft, i.e., give rise to &dquo;shear&dquo; (Figure 1), until creasing occurs. This property of course varies from one type of fabric to another. Together with the bending properties and weight of a fabric, the shear properties should 1>e of great importance for the pliability and drape, or hand. Methods for measuring the bending and drape properties of fabrics are described in the literature 11, 5 ~ . liut there is no published method for determining the relation shearing force and shear deformation. The t’tanonex of I)reby ( 2, 31 1 (FigUft’ 2) merely measures the deformation in degree at which creasing begins, and is designed to evaluate the stiffness of similar fabrics nnished in various
64 citations