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Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface.

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TLDR
Cocoa pods are abundant waste materials of cocoa plantation, which are usually discarded onto plantation floors, but they potentially contain antioxidant compounds, which can be used as functional cosmetic ingredients for antiwrinkles.
Abstract
Objective: Cocoa pods are abundant waste materials of cocoa plantation, which are usually discarded onto plantation floors. However, due to poor plantation management, the discarded cocoa pods can create suitable breeding ground for Phytophthora palmivora, which is regarded as the causal agent of the black pod disease. On the other hand, cocoa pods potentially contain antioxidant compounds. Antioxidant compounds are related to the protection of skin from wrinkles and can be used as functional cosmetic ingredients. Therefore, in this study, cocoa pods were extracted and to be used as active ingredients for antiwrinkles. Methods: The active compounds in cocoa pod extracts (CPE) were screened using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Fibroblast cells were used to determine the effective concentration of CPE to maintain the viability for at least 50% of the cells (EC50). The gel was tested by 12 panelists to determine the efficacy of CPE in gel form using Visioscan to reduce skin wrinkles and improve skin condition. Results: CPE was detected to contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin, and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The EC50 value of cocoa pod extracts was used to calculate the amount of CPE to be incorporated into gel so that the formulated product could reach an effective concentration of extract while being nonintoxicant to the skin cell. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the CPE gel within 3 weeks and significantly improved further (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of the CPE gel application. Conclusion: Flavonoid compounds in CPE contributed to the functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The CPE which is nontoxic to skin cells help to reduce wrinkles on skin after 3 weeks of application. CPE can be used as the active ingredients in antiwrinkle products, and prolonged application may result in significant visual changes to the naked eyes.

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Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface
ABSTRACT
Objective: Cocoa pods are abundant waste materials of cocoa plantation, which are usually
discarded onto plantation floors. However, due to poor plantation management, the discarded
cocoa pods can create suitable breeding ground for Phytophthora palmivora, which is
regarded as the causal agent of the black pod disease. On the other hand, cocoa pods
potentially contain antioxidant compounds. Antioxidant compounds are related to the
protection of skin from wrinkles and can be used as functional cosmetic ingredients.
Therefore, in this study, cocoa pods were extracted and to be used as active ingredients for
antiwrinkles. Methods: The active compounds in cocoa pod extracts (CPE) were screened
using liquid chromatographymass spectrometry (LC-MS). Fibroblast cells were used to
determine the effective concentration of CPE to maintain the viability for at least 50% of the
cells (EC50). The gel was tested by 12 panelists to determine the efficacy of CPE in gel form
using Visioscan to reduce skin wrinkles and improve skin condition. Results: CPE was
detected to contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin,
and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The
EC50 value of cocoa pod extracts was used to calculate the amount of CPE to be incorporated
into gel so that the formulated product could reach an effective concentration of extract while
being nonintoxicant to the skin cell. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to
reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the CPE gel
within 3 weeks and significantly improved further (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin
hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of the CPE gel application. Conclusion:
Flavonoid compounds in CPE contributed to the functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The
CPE which is nontoxic to skin cells help to reduce wrinkles on skin after 3 weeks of
application. CPE can be used as the active ingredients in antiwrinkle products, and prolonged
application may result in significant visual changes to the naked eyes.
Keyword: Antiwrinkles; Cell culture; Cocoa pod extracts; Efficacy; Formulation; Functional
cosmetics
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References
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Negative atmospheric pressure chemical ionisation low-energy collision activation mass spectrometry for the characterisation of flavonoids in extracts of fresh herbs.

TL;DR: Negative-mode APCI-MS is demonstrated to be a good alternative to the commonly employed positive mode operation for identifying unknown flavonoids.
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Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions

TL;DR: The aquaporin‐3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit have been evidenced as potential pathways for endogenous delivery of glycerol and for its metabolism inThe skin.
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Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo.

TL;DR: Vitamin C is known for its antioxidant potential and activity in the collagen biosynthetic pathway and Photoprotective properties of topically applied vitamin C have also been demonstrated, placing it as a potential candidate for use in the prevention and treatment of skin ageing.
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Ascorbic Acid Specifically Increases Type I and Type III Procollagen Messenger RNA Levels in Human Skin Fibroblasts

TL;DR: The effects of ascorbic acid are explained by a translational control linked either to procollagen gene transcription or mRNA degradation, which is associated with a three- to fourfold increase in collagen synthesis and an increase in the levels of mRNAs for both type I and type III procollagens.
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Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) increases the steady-state mRNA levels of collagenase/MMP-1 in human dermal fibroblasts.

TL;DR: Evidence is provided that H2O2 is an important intermediate in the downstream signalling pathway finally leading to the induction of increased steady state MMP-1 mRNA levels.
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Q1. What contributions have the authors mentioned in the paper "Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface" ?

Therefore, in this study, cocoa pods were extracted and to be used as active ingredients for antiwrinkles. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6. 38 ± 1. 23 % with the application of the CPE gel within 3 weeks and significantly improved further ( 12. 39 ± 1. 59 % ) after 5 weeks.