Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface
ABSTRACT
Objective: Cocoa pods are abundant waste materials of cocoa plantation, which are usually
discarded onto plantation floors. However, due to poor plantation management, the discarded
cocoa pods can create suitable breeding ground for Phytophthora palmivora, which is
regarded as the causal agent of the black pod disease. On the other hand, cocoa pods
potentially contain antioxidant compounds. Antioxidant compounds are related to the
protection of skin from wrinkles and can be used as functional cosmetic ingredients.
Therefore, in this study, cocoa pods were extracted and to be used as active ingredients for
antiwrinkles. Methods: The active compounds in cocoa pod extracts (CPE) were screened
using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Fibroblast cells were used to
determine the effective concentration of CPE to maintain the viability for at least 50% of the
cells (EC50). The gel was tested by 12 panelists to determine the efficacy of CPE in gel form
using Visioscan to reduce skin wrinkles and improve skin condition. Results: CPE was
detected to contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin,
and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The
EC50 value of cocoa pod extracts was used to calculate the amount of CPE to be incorporated
into gel so that the formulated product could reach an effective concentration of extract while
being nonintoxicant to the skin cell. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to
reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the CPE gel
within 3 weeks and significantly improved further (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin
hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of the CPE gel application. Conclusion:
Flavonoid compounds in CPE contributed to the functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The
CPE which is nontoxic to skin cells help to reduce wrinkles on skin after 3 weeks of
application. CPE can be used as the active ingredients in antiwrinkle products, and prolonged
application may result in significant visual changes to the naked eyes.
Keyword: Antiwrinkles; Cell culture; Cocoa pod extracts; Efficacy; Formulation; Functional
cosmetics