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Book ChapterDOI

Mechanics of Ocean Waves

TL;DR: In this article, the authors review the mechanics of water waves and wave-body interactions pertaining to ocean and coastal engineering based on linear and weakly nonlinear wave theories and present numerical methods based on Green's theorem and mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation for fully nonlinear Wave and Wave-Body interaction problems.
Abstract: This chapter reviews mechanics of water waves and wave–body interactions pertaining to ocean and coastal engineering based on linear and weakly nonlinear wave theories. Numerical methods based on Green’s theorem and mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation for fully nonlinear wave and wave–body interaction problems are also discussed. The discussion also covers methods to determine the wave forces on fixed and floating structures, including the viscous drag force.
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A comprehensive review on bio-inspired fish robots has been done in this article with an enhanced focus on swimming styles, actuators, hydrodynamics, kinematic-dynamic modeling, and controllers.

51 citations

01 Jul 1978
TL;DR: In this paper, a parabolic approximation to the reduced wave equation was proposed for the propagation of periodic surface waves in shoaling water. The approximation is derived from splitting the wave field into transmitted and reflected components, and the asymptotic form of the solution was compared with the geometrical optics approximation.
Abstract: A parabolic approximation to the reduced wave equation is investigated for the propagation of periodic surface waves in shoaling water. The approximation is derived from splitting the wave field into transmitted and reflected components. In the case of an area with straight and parallel bottom contourlines, the asymptotic form of the solution fer high frequencies is compared with the geometrical optics approximation. Two numerical solution techniques are applied to the propagation of an incident plane wave ever a circular shoal.

22 citations

References
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Book
01 Jan 1966

2,470 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the stability of steady nonlinear waves on the surface of an infinitely deep fluid with a free surface was studied. And the authors considered the problem of stability of surface waves as part of the more general problem of nonlinear wave in media with dispersion.
Abstract: We study the stability of steady nonlinear waves on the surface of an infinitely deep fluid [1, 2]. In section 1, the equations of hydrodynamics for an ideal fluid with a free surface are transformed to canonical variables: the shape of the surface η(r, t) and the hydrodynamic potential ψ(r, t) at the surface are expressed in terms of these variables. By introducing canonical variables, we can consider the problem of the stability of surface waves as part of the more general problem of nonlinear waves in media with dispersion [3,4]. The resuits of the rest of the paper are also easily applicable to the general case.

2,425 citations

Book
01 Jan 1983
TL;DR: In this article, the authors present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from a deterministic point of view, and the bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Abstract: The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.

2,003 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: The radiation stresses in water waves play an important role in a variety of oceanographic phenomena, for example in the change in mean sea level due to storm waves (wave set-up), the generation of "surf-beats", the interaction of waves with steady currents, and the steepening of short gravity waves on the crests of longer waves as discussed by the authors.

1,567 citations