Propagation and breaking characteristics of solitons and N-wave in fresh water and brine
TL;DR: In this article, the results of the study on the wave propagation and breaking of solitons and N-waves in fresh water and brine are reported, and the experiments were performed in the twin flume facility at the Franzius Institute, Leibniz University of Hannover.
Abstract: In this paper, the results of the study on the wave propagation and breaking of solitons and N-waves in fresh water and brine are reported. The experiments were performed in the twin flume facility at the Franzius Institute, Leibniz University of Hannover. Brine from Dead Sea was used for the study. The objective of the experimental study was to determine the flood safety levels along the banks of the Dead Sea and to arrive at the empirical equations for run-up. A weakly coupled numerical model based on the fully nonlinear potential flow and Navier–Stokes equation was used to validate the experimental results. The proposed numerical model is in good agreement with the present experimental results and the available analytical solutions for run-up estimation. The breaking N-waves were found to have a reduced run-up when compared to breaking solitons. The paper shows that the long wave propagation and run-up in both brine and water has similar characteristics.
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TL;DR: Sriram et al. as mentioned in this paper used the strong coupling between the fully nonlinear potential flow theory (FNPT) at the far field and Navier-Stokes (NS) equations in the nearshore.
10 citations
DOI•
21 Feb 2022
TL;DR: In this paper , the authors studied the protection of coastal dunes against tsunamis by using laboratory experiments on a laboratory scale model of the dune (rigid surface) on different plane beach slopes.
Abstract: Tsunamis are one of the most disastrous natural hazards and have a high potential to devastate coastal infrastructure which can result in a notable loss of life. When tsunami waves approach the coast, they cause runup, overtopping, and inundation, which can damage coastal infrastructure and pose a threat to human lives. The tsunami runup is an important factor in the design of coastal protection structures against tsunamis. Therefore, it is essential to predict the runup height of tsunami waves accurately and quickly. From the field observations of past tsunami events at many parts of the world, it was identified that the coastal features like dunes, dense vegetation, and combination of dunes with vegetation, acted as natural buffers and provided protection to the regions behind those coastal features [1]-[6]. In order to study the protective behavior of coastal dunes against tsunamis, laboratory experiments were conducted on a laboratory scale model of the dune (rigid surface) on different plane beach slopes (s) (s= 1/2, 1/5, 1/15 & 1/20). The maximum solitary wave runup (R) was observed on the steep beach slope (s=1/2, non-breaking wave) and the minimum runup was observed on the mild beach slope (s=1/20, breaking wave) in the range 0.05
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TL;DR: In this article, a general solution of the linear long-wave equation for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach is obtained for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion and near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.
Abstract: A general solution of the linear long-wave equation is obtained for arbitrary ground motion on a uniformly sloping beach. Numerical results are presented for specific shapes and time histories of ground motion. Near-shore large amplitude waves are also investigated using non-linear theory.
88 citations
Dissertation•
01 Jan 2011
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present experiments on run-up of solitary waves on a beach of 10-degree inclination and find out what causes the lower maximum runup heigths in experimental results compared with results from numerical models that are based on dispersive long wave theory and full potential theory.
Abstract: This thesis presents experiments on run-up of solitary waves on a beach of 10◦ inclination. The purpose of this study is to find out what causes the lower maximum run-up heigths in experimental results compared with results from numerical models that are based on dispersive long wave theory and full potential theory. The experimental work includes the surface elevation, the velocity field close to the beach and tracing of the moving shoreline. It is found that the main devitation from theory appears in the later stage of the inundation. And the conclusion made is that the descripencies between theory and experiment are most likely due to viscous effects in the boundary layer.
76 citations
"Propagation and breaking characteri..." refers background or methods or result in this paper
...In comparison, Synolakis (1986, 1987) had used the solitary wave model to estimate the run-up of long waves....
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...(9) proposed by Synolakis (1987), the difference in coefficient of about 20% was observed from the present study....
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...Similarly, Spielvogel (1976) and Synolakis (1986, 1987) extended the Carrier and Greenspan transformation to study the run-up of long waves over a slope....
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...Empirical equations were proposed in Synolakis (1986, 1987) to estimate the run-up of breaking solitary waves on slopes....
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...The experimentally obtained values were then compared with the empirical formula suggested by Synolakis (1987) for estimating the run-up of breaking solitary waves (Eq....
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TL;DR: In this paper, a Lagrangian numerical model was developed to solve the nonlinear shallow water equations and the relationship between the maximum runup height and the leading wave form was examined.
Abstract: [1] Using the records of free surface fluctuations at several locations during the 2011 Japan Tohoku tsunami, we first show that the leading tsunami waves in both near-field and far-field regions are small amplitude long waves. These leading waves are very different from solitary waves. We then focus on investigating the evolution and runup of non-breaking long waves on a plane beach, which is connected to a constant depth region. For this purpose, we develop a Lagrangian numerical model to solve the nonlinear shallow water equations. The Lagrangian approach tracks the moving shoreline directly without invoking any additional approximation. We also adopt and extend the analytical solutions by Synolakis (1987) and Madsen and Schaffer (2010) for runup and rundown of cnoidal waves and a train of multiple solitary waves. The analytical solutions for cnoidal waves compare well with the existing experimental data and the direct numerical results when wave amplitudes are small. However, large discrepancies appear when the incident amplitudes are finite. We also examine the relationship between the maximum runup height and the leading wave form. It is concluded that for a single wave the accelerating phase of the incident wave controls the maximum runup height. Finally, using the analytical solutions for the approximated wave forms of the leading tsunamis recorded at Iwate South station from the 2011 Tohoku Japan tsunami, we estimate the runup height.
60 citations
"Propagation and breaking characteri..." refers methods in this paper
...The N-waves generated for this study were based on Chan and Liu (2012)....
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TL;DR: In this article, two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer.
60 citations
"Propagation and breaking characteri..." refers background in this paper
...Similarly, Spielvogel (1976) and Synolakis (1986, 1987) extended the Carrier and Greenspan transformation to study the run-up of long waves over a slope....
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TL;DR: In this paper, the problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory, and the key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves, the face slope steepness of which exceeds the back-slope steepness, partially explaining why the tsunami waves with the steep front penetrate deeper into inland compared with symmetric waves of the same height and length.
Abstract: The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves, the face slope steepness of which exceeds the back slope steepness. Shown is that the runup height increases when the relative face slope steepness increases whereas the rundown weakly depends on the steepness. The results partially explain why the tsunami waves with the steep front (as it was for the 2004 tsunami in the Indian Ocean) penetrate deeper into inland compared with symmetric waves of the same height and length.
54 citations