Run Up of Surface and Internal Waves
01 Jul 2007-
TL;DR: In this article, the authors focused on the breaking and energy transfer mechanisms common to surface and internal waves in the swash-zone and discussed the mathematical model taking into account turbulent mixing and dispersion effects.
Abstract: The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for surface waves ; b) laboratory stratified flow experiments and c) on field data describing the internal wave run up. The presentation is focused on the breaking and energy transfer mechanisms common to surface and internal waves in the swash-zone. The mathematical model taking into account turbulent mixing and dispersion effects is discussed.
References
More filters
01 Jan 2004
TL;DR: In this article, an experiment was conducted in the ESIM wave tank in Marseilles in order to study the space/time evolution of the flow field under waves breaking on an 1/15 beach slope.
Abstract: Experiment were conducted in the ESIM wave tank in Marseilles in order to study the space/time evolution of the flow field under waves breaking on an 1/15 beach slope. Fluid particles velocities were measured at different depths, before, during and after the breaking event using the Particle Imaging Velocimetry (PIV) technique. The mean and fluctuant components of the flow were calculated.
19 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a mathematical model that takes into account both the dispersion effects and the formation of a turbulent upper layer due to the breaking of surface gravity waves is proposed, and the conditions of transition from smooth flows to breaking waves are obtained for steady-state supercritical flow over a local obstacle.
Abstract: Homogeneous heavy fluid flows over an uneven bottom are studied in a long-wave approximation. A mathematical model is proposed that takes into account both the dispersion effects and the formation of a turbulent upper layer due to the breaking of surface gravity waves. The asymptotic behavior of nonlinear perturbations at the wave front is studied, and the conditions of transition from smooth flows to breaking waves are obtained for steady-state supercritical flow over a local obstacle.
5 citations