# Standing wave pressures on walls

TL;DR: In this paper, the Fourier series approximation method was used to calculate the pressure variations exerted on a vertical wall in a constant water depth, and the numerical results have been compared with experimental results from literature.

About: This article is published in Ocean Engineering.The article was published on 2001-05-01. It has received 11 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Standing wave.

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TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the characteristics of wave loading on submerged circular-front breakwaters due to irregular waves and found that wave-induced vortices at the structure had a substantial influence on the wave loading.

25 citations

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TL;DR: In this paper, a solution of shallow water wave force, using small amplitude linear wave theory on two-dimensional vertically submerged circular thin plates under three different configurations: (1) a surface-piercing circular thin plate, (2) a submerged circular-thin plate, and (3) a bottom-standing circular-flat plate.

16 citations

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TL;DR: In this article, the second-order free surface displacement and velocity potential when a high crest occurs at some fixed point on, or close to, the vertical wall is obtained, and the solution is exact for any water depth, and it is given as a function of the frequency spectrum of the incident waves.

Abstract: Nonlinear random wave groups interacting with a vertical wall are investigated. The analytical solution for the second-order free surface displacement and velocity potential when a high crest occurs at some fixed point on, or close to, the vertical wall is obtained. The solution is exact for any water depth, and it is given as a function of the frequency spectrum of the incident waves. It is obtained that the effects of nonlinearity strongly modify the linear structure of wave groups both in the space and the time domain. The maximum effect of nonlinearity occurs when the high wave hits the wall. Furthermore, it is shown that in finite water depth, the nonlinearity increases as the bottom depth decreases. Finally, a validation by means of Monte Carlo simulations of nonlinear random waves in reflection is given.

15 citations

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TL;DR: In this paper, the wave pressure intensity at the still water level exerted on a vertical type of breakwater with irregular waves is investigated, and a comparison is made between the first, second-order theories, Goda's formula and the experimental data.

10 citations

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TL;DR: In this article, a parametric study was made on the interaction between nonlinear focused wave groups and a vertical wall by considering the effects of angles of incidence, wave steepness, focal positions, water depth, frequency bandwidth and the peak lifting factor.

8 citations

##### References

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TL;DR: In this article, the surface profile, potential function, pressure and frequency of the motion are determined (to third order) as series in powers of the amplitude divided by the wavelength, and graphs of the surface profiles and of the pressure as a function of depth are included.

Abstract: Gravity waves on the surface of an inviscid incompressible fluid of finite depth are considered. The waves are assumed to be periodic in time and in the horizontal direction. The surface profile, potential function, pressure and frequency of the motion are determined (to third order) as series in powers of the amplitude divided by the wavelength. It is found that the frequency increases with amplitude for depths less than a certain multiple of the wavelength and decreases with increasing amplitude for greater depths. Graphs of the surface profile and of the pressure as a function of depth are included.

217 citations

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TL;DR: In this paper, the variables of a short-crested wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method, under the assumption of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid.

Abstract: Short-crested wave systems, as produced by two progressive waves propagating at an oblique angle to each other, have an extremely important effect on a sedimentary bed. The complex water-particle motions are conducive to lifting material into suspension and sustaining it in motion. In order to study this phenomenon rigorously, the variables of this wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method. The case of waves reflecting obliquely from a vertical wall is examined under the assumptions of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid. The new formulation reduces to standing or Stokes waves at the limiting angles of approach. Expressions for kinematic quantities are also presented.

103 citations

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TL;DR: In this article, the authors give a model for the force exerted on vertical walls by the reflection of water waves with an arbitrary angle of incidence, and show that the maximum force per unit length can be caused by obliquely-incident waves rather than standing waves.

Abstract: Formulae are given for the force exerted on vertical walls: by the reflection of water waves with an arbitrary angle of incidence. The variation of the loads with all design variables show a number of unusual features, including the fact that the maximum force per unit length can be caused by obliquely-incident waves rather than standing waves. It is important for design that the whole range of possible wave conditions be considered. A method is developed for the numerical solution of the problem, which unlike the theory on which the above-mentioned formulae are based, solves the stated problem exactly. Results from the approximate formulae are compared with those from the numerical method, and are found to be surprisingly accurate over a wide range of wave conditions.

55 citations

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TL;DR: In this paper, the fourth order approximation to the pressure of standing waves has been studied in the context of coastal engineering in Japan, and the authors propose a method to estimate the fourth-order approximation of standing wave pressure.

Abstract: (1967). The Fourth Order Approximation to the Pressure of Standing Waves. Coastal Engineering in Japan: Vol. 10, No. 1, pp. 1-11.

54 citations

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TL;DR: In this paper, a numerical method involving truncated Fourier series is presented for the calculation of properties of short-crested water waves over much of the nonlinear regime.

Abstract: A numerical method involving truncated Fourier series is presented for the calculation of properties of short‐crested water waves. The method produces accurate results over much of the nonlinear regime. In the case of infinite water depth, calculated results include a representative wave profile and the variation in frequency and energy densities with wave steepness and planform skewness.

51 citations