Wave dynamics over Roberts Bank, British Columbia: processes and modelling
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Cites background or result from "Wave dynamics over Roberts Bank, Br..."
...Although significant wave heights reach as high as 2.5m, 97% of all hourly values are below 1m—consistent with previous observations made nearer to the radar footprint (Meulé et al. 2007)....
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...The wave conditions experienced in this region depend somewhat on the wind direction because it determines the fetch (Meulé et al. 2007)....
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References
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"Wave dynamics over Roberts Bank, Br..." refers methods in this paper
...The elliptic equation of Berkhoff (1972, 1976) was not used in its original form....
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348 citations
Additional excerpts
...For computational efficiency, the main direction of wave propagation was projected onto the X-axis and equation 2 was solved in a parabolic form (Radder, 1979): ∂ ∂ ∂ ∂ φ φ x ik kCCg kCCg x = ⎞ ⎠ ⎟ ⎛ ⎝ ⎜ + 1 2 (3) i kCCg y CCg y2 ∂ ∂ ∂ ∂ φ⎞ ⎠ ⎟ ⎛ ⎝ ⎜ where i is the imaginary number....
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109 citations
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...When waves break, the surface elevation in the surf zone is recalculated from the equation of Stive (1984): ∂ ∂ ∂ ∂ H x H h h x A h gT H h + = ⎛ ⎝ ⎜ ⎞ ⎠ ⎟ ⎞ ⎠⎟ ⎛ ⎝ ⎜⎜∈4 2 1 2 2 (4) where H is the wave height, h is the depth, A is a dimensionless dissipation factor, g is the acceleration due to…...
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