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Showing papers on "Breaking wave published in 2003"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a review of gravity wave sources and characteristics, the evolution of the gravity wave spectrum with altitude and with variations of wind and stability, the character and implications of observed climatologies, and the wave interaction and instability processes that constrain wave amplitudes and spectral shape are discussed.
Abstract: [1] Atmospheric gravity waves have been a subject of intense research activity in recent years because of their myriad effects and their major contributions to atmospheric circulation, structure, and variability. Apart from occasionally strong lower-atmospheric effects, the major wave influences occur in the middle atmosphere, between ∼ 10 and 110 km altitudes because of decreasing density and increasing wave amplitudes with altitude. Theoretical, numerical, and observational studies have advanced our understanding of gravity waves on many fronts since the review by Fritts [1984a]; the present review will focus on these more recent contributions. Progress includes a better appreciation of gravity wave sources and characteristics, the evolution of the gravity wave spectrum with altitude and with variations of wind and stability, the character and implications of observed climatologies, and the wave interaction and instability processes that constrain wave amplitudes and spectral shape. Recent studies have also expanded dramatically our understanding of gravity wave influences on the large-scale circulation and the thermal and constituent structures of the middle atmosphere. These advances have led to a number of parameterizations of gravity wave effects which are enabling ever more realistic descriptions of gravity wave forcing in large-scale models. There remain, nevertheless, a number of areas in which further progress is needed in refining our understanding of and our ability to describe and predict gravity wave influences in the middle atmosphere. Our view of these unknowns and needs is also offered.

2,206 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present information of coastal processes on these time scales and assess the predictive capabilities of Profile models with respect to hydrodynamics and morphodynamics at sandy beaches on the time scales of storms and seasons.

448 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
03 Apr 2003-Nature
TL;DR: In the observations, dissipation rates and accompanying mixing across density surfaces near the Equator are less than 10% of those at mid-latitudes for a similar background of internal waves, which will have to be taken into account in numerical simulations of ocean dynamics.
Abstract: In the oceans, heat, salt and nutrients are redistributed much more easily within water masses of uniform density than across surfaces separating waters of different densities. But the magnitude and distribution of mixing across density surfaces are also important for the Earth's climate as well as the concentrations of organisms. Most of this mixing occurs where internal waves break, overturning the density stratification of the ocean and creating patches of turbulence. Predictions of the rate at which internal waves dissipate were confirmed earlier at mid-latitudes. Here we present observations of temperature and velocity fluctuations in the Pacific and Atlantic oceans between 42 degrees N and 2 degrees S to extend that result to equatorial regions. We find a strong latitude dependence of dissipation in accordance with the predictions. In our observations, dissipation rates and accompanying mixing across density surfaces near the Equator are less than 10% of those at mid-latitudes for a similar background of internal waves. Reduced mixing close to the Equator will have to be taken into account in numerical simulations of ocean dynamics--for example, in climate change experiments.

382 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focus on the results of theoretical work, making particular note of the value of considering pressure impulse, and highlight the aspects that are poorly understood, including the role of entrained and trapped air in wave impacts.
Abstract: ▪ Abstract The more violent impacts of water waves on walls create velocities and pressures having magnitudes much larger than those associated with the propagation of ordinary waves under gravity. Insight into these effects has been gained by irrotational-flow computations and by investigating the role of entrained and trapped air in wave impacts. This review focuses on the results of theoretical work, making particular note of the value of considering pressure impulse, and highlights the aspects that are poorly understood.

344 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a physical model that takes into account not only the Bragg mechanism, but also the non-Bragg scattering mechanism associated with wave breaking was developed to explain the background behavior of the NRCS and the wave radar Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) at HH and VV polarization.
Abstract: [1] Multiscale composite models based on the Bragg theory are widely used to study the normalized radar cross-section (NRCS) over the sea surface. However, these models are not able to correctly reproduce the NRCS in all configurations and wind wave conditions. We have developed a physical model that takes into account, not only the Bragg mechanism, but also the non-Bragg scattering mechanism associated with wave breaking. A single model was built to explain on the same physical basis both the background behavior of the NRCS and the wave radar Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) at HH and VV polarization. The NRCS is assumed to be the sum of a Bragg part (two-scale model) and of a non-Bragg part. The description of the sea surface is based on the short wind wave spectrum (wavelength from few millimeters to few meters) developed by Kudryavtsev et al. [1999] and wave breaking statistics proposed by Phillips [1985]. We assume that non-Bragg scattering is supported by quasi-specular reflection from very rough wave breaking patterns and that the overall contribution is proportional to the white cap coverage of the surface. A comparison of the model NRCS with observations is presented. We show that neither pure Bragg nor composite Bragg model is able to reproduce observed feature of the sea surface NRCS in a wide range of radar frequencies, wind speeds, and incidence and azimuth angles. The introduction of the non-Bragg part in the model gives an improved agreement with observations. In Part 2, we extend the model to the wave radar MTF problem.

248 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a sequence of three internal solitary waves of elevation were observed propagating shoreward along a near-bottom density interface over Oregon's continental shelf, consistent with increased suspended sediments in the bottom boundary layer.
Abstract: [1] A sequence of three internal solitary waves of elevation were observed propagating shoreward along a near-bottom density interface over Oregon's continental shelf. These waves are highly turbulent and coincide with enhanced optical backscatter, consistent with increased suspended sediments in the bottom boundary layer. Non-linear solitary wave solutions are employed to estimate wave speeds and energy. The waves are rank ordered in amplitude, phase speed, and energy, and inversely ordered in width. Wave kinetic energy is roughly twice the potential energy. The observed turbulence is not sufficiently large to dissipate the waves' energy before the waves reach the shore. Because of high wave velocities at the sea bed, bottom stress is inferred to be an important source of wave energy loss, unlike near-surface solitary waves. The wave solution suggests that the lead wave has a trapped core, implying enhanced cross-shelf transport of fluid and biology.

237 citations


Journal Article
TL;DR: In this paper, a physical model that takes into account not only the Bragg mechanism, but also the non-Bragg scattering mechanism associated with wave breaking was developed to explain the background behavior of the NRCS and the wave radar Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) at HH and VV polarization.
Abstract: [1] Multiscale composite models based on the Bragg theory are widely used to study the normalized radar cross-section (NRCS) over the sea surface. However, these models are not able to correctly reproduce the NRCS in all configurations and wind wave conditions. We have developed a physical model that takes into account, not only the Bragg mechanism, but also the non-Bragg scattering mechanism associated with wave breaking. A single model was built to explain on the same physical basis both the background behavior of the NRCS and the wave radar Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) at HH and VV polarization. The NRCS is assumed to be the sum of a Bragg part (two-scale model) and of a non-Bragg part. The description of the sea surface is based on the short wind wave spectrum (wavelength from few millimeters to few meters) developed by Kudryavtsev et al. [1999] and wave breaking statistics proposed by Phillips [1985]. We assume that non-Bragg scattering is supported by quasi-specular reflection from very rough wave breaking patterns and that the overall contribution is proportional to the white cap coverage of the surface. A comparison of the model NRCS with observations is presented. We show that neither pure Bragg nor composite Bragg model is able to reproduce observed feature of the sea surface NRCS in a wide range of radar frequencies, wind speeds, and incidence and azimuth angles. The introduction of the non-Bragg part in the model gives an improved agreement with observations. In Part 2, we extend the model to the wave radar MTF problem.

205 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a phase-decoupled refraction-diffraction approximation is proposed to accommodate diffraction in spectral wave models, which is expressed in terms of the directional turning rate of the individual wave components in the two-dimensional wave spectrum.

204 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors proposed that the body force that accompanies wave breaking is potentially an important linear mechanism for generating secondary waves that propagate into the mesosphere and lower thermosphere, which can explain some of the mean wind and secondary wave features generated from wave breaking in a 2D nonlinear model study.
Abstract: The authors propose that the body force that accompanies wave breaking is potentially an important linear mechanism for generating secondary waves that propagate into the mesosphere and lower thermosphere. While the focus of this paper is on 3D forcings, it is shown that this generating mechanism can explain some of the mean wind and secondary wave features generated from wave breaking in a 2D nonlinear model study. Deep 3D body forces, which generate secondary waves very efficiently, create high-frequency waves with large vertical wavelengths that possess large momentum fluxes. The efficiency of this forcing is independent of latitude. However, the spatial and temporal variability/intermittency of a body force is important in determining the properties and associated momentum fluxes of the secondary waves. High spatial and temporal variability accompanying a wave breaking process leads to large secondary wave momentum fluxes. If a body force varies slowly with time, negligible secondary wave fluxes result. Spatial variability is important because distributing ‘‘averaged’’ body forces over larger regions horizontally (as is often necessary in GCM models) results in waves with smaller frequencies, larger horizontal wavelengths, and smaller associated momentum fluxes than would otherwise result. Because some of the secondary waves emitted from localized body force regions have large vertical wavelengths and large intrinsic phase speeds, the authors anticipate that secondary wave radiation from wave breaking in the mesosphere may play a significant role in the momentum budget well into the thermosphere.

193 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a new functional form for γ is derived empirically by an inverse modelling of γ from a high-resolution (in the cross-shore) 300-h H rms data set collected at Duck, NC, USA.

192 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the spectral energy of high-frequency internal waves in large stratified lakes was studied. But the spectral properties of these waves were not analyzed. But they were reasonably described by nonlinear wave and linear stability models, respectively, and they were observed to have wavelengths between 28.37 and 9.35 m.
Abstract: Observations are presented from Lake Biwa and Lake Kinneret showing the ubiquitous and often periodic nature of high-frequency internal waves in large stratified lakes. In both lakes, high-frequency wave events were observed within two distinct categories: (1) Vertical mode 1 solitary waves near a steepened Kelvin wave front and vertical mode 2 solitary waves at the head of an intrusive thermocline jet were found to have wavelengths ;64‐670 m and ;13‐65 m, respectively, and were observed to excite a spectral energy peak near 10 23 Hz. (2) Sinusoidal vertical mode 1 waves on the crests of Kelvin waves (vertically coherent in both phase and frequency) and bordering the thermocline jets in the high shear region trailing the vertical mode 2 solitary waves (vertically incoherent in both phase and frequency) were found to have wavelengths between 28‐37 and 9‐35 m, respectively, and excited a spectral energy peak just below the local maximum buoyancy frequency near 10 22 Hz. The waves in wave event categories 1 and 2 were reasonably described by nonlinear wave and linear stability models, respectively. Analysis of the energetics of these waves suggests that the waves associated with shear instability will dissipate their energy rapidly within the lake interior and are thus responsible for patchy turbulent events that have been observed within the metalimnion. Conversely, the finite-amplitude solitary waves, which each contain as much as 1% of the basinscale Kelvin wave energy, will propagate to the lake perimeter where they can shoal, thus contributing to the maintenance of the benthic boundary layer.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a simulation of surface wave dynamics of vertical falling films under monochromatic-frequency flowrate-forcing perturbations is computed by direct simulation of Navier-Stokes equations using the VOF method to track free surfaces and the Continuum Surface Force (CSF) model to account for dynamic boundary conditions at free surfaces.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a time domain Boussinesq model for nearshore hydrodynamics is improved to obtain the conservation of vertical vorticity correct to second order and extended for use on an open coast using longshore periodic boundary conditions.
Abstract: [1] A time domain Boussinesq model for nearshore hydrodynamics is improved to obtain the conservation of vertical vorticity correct to second order and extended for use on an open coast using longshore periodic boundary conditions. The model is utilized to simulate surface waves and longshore currents under laboratory and field conditions. Satisfactory agreement is found between numerical results and measurements, including root mean square wave height, mean water level, and longshore current. One striking result of the simulations is the prediction of the strong longshore current in the trough shoreward of the bar as observed during the Duck Experiment on Low-frequency and Incident-band Longshore and Across-shore Hydrodynamics field campaign. The model results give insight into the spatial and temporal variability of wave-driven longshore currents and the associated vertical vorticity field under the phase-resolving, random wave forcing with wave/current interaction. Numerical experiments are carried out to examine the response of the modeled longshore currents to the randomness of surface waves and the cross-shore distributions of bed shear stress coefficient. We find that both regular and irregular waves lead to very similar mean longshore currents, while the input of monochromatic, unidirectional waves results in much more energetic shear waves than does the input of random waves. The model results favor Whitford and Thornton's [1996] finding that the bed shear stress coefficient for the area offshore the bar is larger than that in the trough, as better agreement with the field data for both regular and irregular waves is found if such coefficients are used in the Boussinesq model.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, scaling analysis of the equations governing water wave propagation shows that near-field wave amplitude and wavelength should depend on certain measures of mass flow dynamics and volume, and the scaling analysis motivates a successful collapse (in dimensionless space) of data from two distinct sets of experiments with solid block wave makers.
Abstract: [1] Tsunamis generated in lakes and reservoirs by subaerial mass flows pose distinctive problems for hazards assessment because the domain of interest is commonly the “near field,” beyond the zone of complex splashing but close enough to the source that wave propagation effects are not predominant. Scaling analysis of the equations governing water wave propagation shows that near-field wave amplitude and wavelength should depend on certain measures of mass flow dynamics and volume. The scaling analysis motivates a successful collapse (in dimensionless space) of data from two distinct sets of experiments with solid block “wave makers.” To first order, wave amplitude/water depth is a simple function of the ratio of dimensionless wave maker travel time to dimensionless wave maker volume per unit width. Wave amplitude data from previous laboratory investigations with both rigid and deformable wave makers follow the same trend in dimensionless parameter space as our own data. The characteristic wavelength/water depth for all our experiments is simply proportional to dimensionless wave maker travel time, which is itself given approximately by a simple function of wave maker length/water depth. Wave maker shape and rigidity do not otherwise influence wave features. Application of the amplitude scaling relation to several historical events yields “predicted” near-field wave amplitudes in reasonable agreement with measurements and observations. Together, the scaling relations for near-field amplitude, wavelength, and submerged travel time provide key inputs necessary for computational wave propagation and hazards assessment.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, two-and three-dimensional numerical simulations are performed to study interfacial waves in a periodic domain by imposing a source term in the horizontal momentum equation, and the maximum instantaneous mixing efficiency is found to be 0.36 ± 0.02.
Abstract: Two- and three-dimensional numerical simulations are performed to study interfacial waves in a periodic domain by imposing a source term in the horizontal momentum equation. Removing the source term before breaking generates a stable interfacial wave. Continued forcing results in a two-dimensional shear instability for waves with thinner interfaces, and a convective instability for waves with thick interfaces. The subsequent three-dimensional dynamics and mixing is dominated by secondary cross-stream convective rolls which account for roughly half of the total dissipation of wave energy. Dissipation and mixing are maximized when the interface thickness is roughly the same size as the amplitude of the wave, while the mixing efficiency is a weak function of the interface thickness. The maximum instantaneous mixing efficiency is found to be 0.36 ± 0.02.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors compare spectral refraction computations and wave measurements collected on the North Carolina-Virginia continental shelf in the autumn of 1999 to show that strong dissipation of wave energy takes place in the bottom boundary layer.
Abstract: Extensive wave measurements were collected on the North Carolina–Virginia continental shelf in the autumn of 1999. Comparisons of observations and spectral refraction computations reveal strong cross-shelf decay of energetic remotely generated swell with, for one particular event, a maximum reduction in wave energy of 93% near the Virginia coastline, where the shelf is widest. These dramatic energy losses were observed in light-wind conditions when dissipation in the surface boundary layer caused by wave breaking (whitecaps) was weak and wave propagation directions were onshore with little directional spreading. These observations suggest that strong dissipation of wave energy takes place in the bottom boundary layer. The inferred dissipation is weaker for smaller-amplitude swells. For the three swell events described here, observations are reproduced well by numerical model hindcasts using a parameterization of wave friction over a movable sandy bed. Directional spectra that are narrow off the s...

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors examine the significance of wave-current interaction as it affects the subsequent development of the currents, in particular when the currents are weak compared to the wave speed, and describe the dynamics of currents using the shallow water equations with linear bottom friction and wave forcing parameterized utilizing the radiation stress concept.
Abstract: [1] The time evolution of rip currents in the nearshore is studied by numerical experiments. The generation of rip currents is due to waves propagating and breaking over alongshore variable topography. Our main focus is to examine the significance of wave-current interaction as it affects the subsequent development of the currents, in particular when the currents are weak compared to the wave speed. We describe the dynamics of currents using the shallow water equations with linear bottom friction and wave forcing parameterized utilizing the radiation stress concept. The slow variations of the wave field, in terms of local wave number, frequency, and energy (wave amplitude), are described using the ray theory with the inclusion of energy dissipation due to breaking. The results show that the offshore directed rip currents interact with the incident waves to produce a negative feedback on the wave forcing, hence to reduce the strength and offshore extent of the currents. In particular, this feedback effect supersedes the bottom friction such that the circulation patterns become less sensitive to a change of the bottom friction parameterization. The two physical processes arising from refraction by currents, bending of wave rays and changes of wave energy, are both found to be important. The onset of instabilities of circulations occurs at the nearshore region where rips are “fed,” rather than offshore at rip heads as predicted with no wave-current interaction. The unsteady flows are characterized by vortex shedding, pairing, and offshore migration. Instabilities are sensitive to the angle of wave incidence and the spacing of rip channels.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, four different two-equation turbulence models for geophysical flows are compared: the k − ϵ model, two new versions of the k - ω model, and the Mellor-Yamada model.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, numerical evidence is presented which suggests that there is a close connection between the limiting behaviour of large-amplitude solitary waves and the formation of such waves via shoaling.
Abstract: Shoaling solitary internal waves are ubiquitous features in the coastal regions of the world's oceans where waves with a core of recirculating fluid (trapped cores) can provide an effective transport mechanism. Here, numerical evidence is presented which suggests that there is a close connection between the limiting behaviour of large-amplitude solitary waves and the formation of such waves via shoaling. For some background states, large-amplitude waves are broad, having a nearly horizontal flow in their centre. The flow in the centre of such waves is called a conjugate flow. For other background states, large-amplitude waves can reach the breaking limit, at which the maximum current in the wave is equal to the wave's propagation speed. The presence of a background current with near-surface vorticity of the same sign as that induced by the wave can change the limiting behaviour from the conjugate-flow limit to the breaking limit. Numerical evidence is presented here which suggests that if large solitary waves cannot reach the breaking limit in the shallow water, that is if the background flow has a conjugate flow, then waves with trapped cores will not be formed via shoaling. It is also shown that, due to a change in the limiting behaviour of large waves, an appropriate background current can enable the formation of waves with trapped cores in stratifications for which such waves are not formed in the absence of a background current.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a three-dimensional numerical model was used to simulate planetary waves and diagnose the physical processes involved, and several model runs that isolate specific processes were used to determine the relative importance of two forcing mechanisms.
Abstract: Satellite observations indicate that quasi-stationary planetary waves often exist to at least 100 km in the winter mesosphere. Waves are also seen in the summer upper mesosphere. A three-dimensional numerical model was used to simulate these waves and to diagnose the physical processes involved. The waves simulated in the model closely resemble observed waves. Several model runs that isolate specific processes are used to determine the relative importance of two forcing mechanisms. In the model, planetary waves that propagate from below are significantly damped at the altitude where gravity wave drag becomes large (about 75 km in the winter midlatitudes) or below if a reversal in the mean wind is encountered. Momentum forcing associated with breaking gravity waves that have been filtered by planetary-scale wind variations below acts to generate planetary waves in the middle and upper mesosphere. The amplitude from in situ forcing by gravity wave breaking exceeds the amplitude from the upward-prop...

Journal ArticleDOI
Nicolas Reul1, Bertrand Chapron1
TL;DR: In this article, the authors developed a dynamical model for the conditional fraction of sea-surface covered by whitecaps with given thickness, as a function of wind speed, which is an integrated function of the foam-layer lifetime and of the distribution of the total length of breaking fronts at given scale.
Abstract: [1] Foam formations at the sea surface significantly contribute to microwave brightness temperature signatures over the ocean for moderate to high wind speeds. The thickness of foam layers generated by breaking waves follows a specific distribution due to unsteadiness of breaking and the large range of wave scales involved in the phenomenon. Although the effect of a distributed thickness-parameter on the foam-induced microwave brightness temperature may be comparable to or larger than the fractional whitecap coverage, it is not yet included in brightness models. To fill this gap, we develop a dynamical model for the conditional fraction of sea-surface covered by whitecaps with given thickness, as a function of wind speed. It is an integrated function of the foam-layer lifetime and of the distribution of the total length of breaking fronts at given scale. The depth at which air bubbles are injected into the water column is scaled with breaking front velocity using reported dynamical properties of unsteady breaking regions. For wind speed less than 20 m/s, the model predicts that two thirds of the fractional whitecap coverage is due to layers on average thinner than 60 cm and 35 cm for crest- and static-foam formations, respectively. In unstable atmospheric conditions, an increase in wind speed from 7 to 20 m/s corresponds to a coverage-weighted foam-layer thickening of about 1 cm and 3.5 cm, respectively. In neutral conditions, the thickening is approximately 2 times lower. Still, this will induce doubling of foam emissivity at Ku and C bands.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, Denny et al. measured the maximum hydrodynamic forces imposed on organism-sized benthic objects and related these forces to nearshore significant wave heights.
Abstract: Hydrodynamic forces from breaking waves are among the most important sources of mortality in the rocky intertidal zone. Information about the forces imposed by breaking waves is therefore critical if we are to interpret the mechanical design and physiological performance of wave-swept organisms in an ecologically and evolutionarily relevant context. Wave theory and engineering experiments predict that the process of wave breaking sets a limit on the maximum force to which organisms can be subjected. Unfortunately, the magnitude of this limit has not been determined on rocky shores. To this end, at a moderately exposed shore in central California, we measured the maximum hydrodynamic forces imposed on organism-sized benthic objects and related these forces to nearshore significant wave heights. At 146 of 221 microsites, there was a significant and substantial positive correlation between force and wave height, and at 130 of these microsites, force increased nonlinearly toward a statistically defined limit. The magnitude of this limit varied among sites, from 19 to 730 newtons (N). At 37 other sites, there was no significant correlation between surf zone force and wave height, indicating that increased wave height did not translate into increased force at these sites either. At only 16 sites did force increase in proportion to wave height without an apparent upper bound. These results suggest that for most microsites there is indeed a limiting wave height beyond which force is independent of wave height. The magnitude of the limit varies substantially among microsites, and an index of local topography was found to predict little of this variation. Thus, caution must be exercised in any attempt to relate observed variations in ocean ‘‘waviness’’ to the corresponding rates of microsite disturbance in intertidal communities. Rocky intertidal invertebrates and algae live in a world of extreme environmental severity, and the risk of damage or dislodgment from wave-generated forces is thought to be among the most important determinants of survival in this habitat (e.g., Dayton 1971; Levin and Paine 1974; Koehl 1979; Paine 1979; Paine and Levin 1981; Sousa 1984; Denny 1987, 1988; Carrington 1990, 2002; Bertness et al. 1991; Hunt and Scheibling 1996; Blanchette 1997). Quantifying the hydrodynamic forces acting on organisms, and how they vary in space and in time, is therefore key to understanding the evolutionary and ecological consequences of morphological design and the subsequent effects of wave-driven forces on the dynamics of intertidal ecosystems (Denny 1988; Koehl 1996; Denny and Wethey 2001; Carrington 2002).

Journal ArticleDOI
01 Mar 2003
TL;DR: In this paper, the average dissipation rate of the turbulent kinetic energy in the upper few meters of the ocean was observed to be 3-20 times larger than the logarithmic layer prediction.
Abstract: Dissipation rate statistics in the near-surface layer of the ocean were obtained during the month-long COARE Enhanced Monitoring cruise with a microstructure sensor system mounted on the bow of the research vessel. The vibration contamination was cancelled with the Wiener filter. The experimental technique provides an effective separation between surface waves and turbulence, using the difference in spatial scales of the energy-containing surface waves and small-scale turbulence. The data are interpreted in the coordinate system fixed to the ocean surface. Under moderate and high wind-speed conditions, we observed the average dissipation rate of the turbulent kinetic energy in the upper few meters of the ocean to be 3–20 times larger than the logarithmic layer prediction. The Craig and Banner (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 24 (1994) 2546) model of wave-enhanced turbulence with the surface roughness length from the water side z 0 parameterized according to the Terray et al. (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 26 (1996) 792) formula z 0 = cH s provides a reasonable fit to the experimental dissipation profile, where z is the depth (defined here as the distance to the ocean surface), c ≈0.6, and H s is the significant wave height. In the wave-stirred layer, however, the average dissipation profile deviates from the model (supposedly because of extensive removing of the bubble-disturbed areas close to the ocean surface). Though the scatter of individual experimental dissipation rates (10-min averages) is significant, their statistics are consistent with the Kolmogorov's concept of intermittent turbulence and with previous studies of turbulence in the upper ocean mixed layer.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy has been measured with airfoil probes mounted on an autonomous vehicle, Autosub, on constant-depth legs at 2-10 m below the surface in winds up to 14 m s−1.
Abstract: The rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy has been measured with airfoil probes mounted on an autonomous vehicle, Autosub, on constant-depth legs at 2–10 m below the surface in winds up to 14 m s−1. The observations are mostly in an area limited by fetch to 26 km where the pycnocline depth is about 20 m. At the operational depths of 1.55–15.9 times the significant wave height Hs, and in steady winds of about 11.6 m s−1 when the wave age is 11.7–17.2, dissipation is found to be lognormally distributed with a law-of-the-wall variation with depth and friction velocity. Breaking waves, leaving clouds of bubbles in the water, are detected ahead of the Autosub by a forward-pointing sidescan sonar, and the dissipation is measured when the clouds are subsequently reached. Bands of bubbles resulting from the presence of Langmuir circulation are identified by a semiobjective method that seeks continuity of band structure recognized by both forward- and sideways-pointing sidescan sonars. The times...

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, an empirical method was developed based on energy conservation principles to provide an estimate of the runup of breaking solitary waves on a plane slope, and the results from this highly simplified energy conservation model agree reasonably well with experiments, and this model appears to be useful in predicting the breaking solitary wave runup.
Abstract: The runup of breaking solitary waves on a plane beach has been investigated. Experimental measurements demonstrate the effect of the impact of the jet from a plunging breaking solitary wave and the postbreaking bore formed on the resultant runup. An empirical method was developed based on energy conservation principles to provide an estimate of the runup of breaking solitary waves on a plane slope. Energy dissipation associated with wave breaking was estimated using the results from a numerical model developed by Li. The results from this highly simplified energy conservation model agree reasonably well with experiments, and this model appears to be useful in predicting breaking solitary wave runup on a plane beach.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the wave forces acting on a three-dimensional body on a submerged breakwater were estimated by combining the VOF model and porous body model to simulate the nonlinear wave deformation including wave breaking and its interaction with a porous structure.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors compare idealized high-resolution simulations of turbulence arising due to Kelvin-Helmholtz shear instability and gravity-wave breaking, believed to be the two major sources of turbulence generation near the mesopause.
Abstract: [1] We describe and compare idealized high-resolution simulations of turbulence arising due to Kelvin-Helmholtz shear instability and gravity-wave breaking, believed to be the two major sources of turbulence generation near the mesopause. The two flows both share characteristics related to turbulence transition, evolution, and duration and exhibit a number of differences that have important implications for layering, layered structures, and atmospheric observations at mesopause altitudes. Common features related to layering include sharp local gradients in turbulent kinetic energy production, dissipation, and magnitude and a clear spatial separation of the maxima of turbulent kinetic energy dissipation and thermal dissipation accompanying vigorous turbulence. Differences arise because shear instability causes turbulence and mixing confined by stratification to a narrow layer, whereas gravity-wave breaking leads to a maximum of turbulence activity that moves with the phase of the wave. As a result, the effects of turbulence due to shear instability likely persist for much longer than those of turbulence due to gravity-wave breaking. We also discuss the implications of these results for a number of atmospheric measurements employing radar.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a rigorous derivation of terms describing the thermal effects of gravity waves on the mean flow, based on the corresponding energy cycle for wave/mean flow interactions, is presented.
Abstract: [1] Breaking/saturating gravity waves (GWs) not only exert drag on the mean flow due to their momentum deposition but also affect the background thermally because of the associated energy flux divergence. We present a rigorous derivation of terms describing the thermal effects of GWs on the mean flow, based on the corresponding energy cycle for wave/mean flow interactions. The combined effect of saturating GWs is to produce both differential heating and cooling by inducing a downward wave heat flux, and an irreversible conversion of wave energy into heat. The former effect can also be represented as thermal diffusion acting on the mean potential temperature gradient. This rigorous theory for the thermal exchange between waves and the mean flow can be closed once the mechanism for GW dissipation is parameterized. To illustrate the procedure, we employ our recent nonlinear theory of GW spectra to derive expressions for the wave-induced heating rates. This yields a parameterization of the thermal effects of GWs, which is suitable for use in general circulation models and requires the source GW spectrum as the only tunable parameter. We present results of numerical calculations of wave heating terms for typical wind and temperature profiles as well as simulations with the full-scale Canadian Middle Atmosphere Model (CMAM).

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TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that the intensity of the near-surface baroclinic development influences the upper-level wave to such an extent that it could produce cyclonic or anticyclonic wave breaking.
Abstract: By analyzing a number of very high resolution, nonhydrostatic experiments of baroclinic lifecycles, it was concluded that the intensity of the near-surface baroclinic development influences the upper-level wave to such an extent that it could produce cyclonic or anticyclonic wave breaking. Since the final jet position is equatorward or poleward, the position depends on whether the waves break cyclonically or anticyclonically, respectively. The low-level baroclinicity plays a very important role in the outcome of the wave and feedback to the mean circulation. Using a shallow water model the hypothesis that the intensity of the eddy forcing from the lower layers of the atmosphere can have a profound effect on the disturbances of the upper layers is tested. From these experiments the following is concluded. For weak intensities, the strong effective beta asymmetries due to the earth’s sphericity produce anticyclonic wave breaking and a poleward shift of the zonal jet will occur. For moderate forcing, anticyclonic wave breaking occurs and consequently, as before, a poleward shift of the zonal jet will occur. However, there is an important distinction between weak and moderate forcing. In the latter case, the eddy anticyclonic centers are very intense. The influence of the two anticyclones produces a difluence field that will strain the cyclonic vortex along the SW‐NE direction. Consequently, the meridional vorticity flux y9z9 is positive in the north and negative in the south. This process has two effects: thinning the cyclone and producing positive vorticity fluxes on the north, negative fluxes on the south and moving the jet poleward. By increasing the forcing, the cyclone centers become considerably more intense than the anticyclones (CVC) and they are able to deform and thin the anticyclones, thus moving the jet equatorward. This transition is very abrupt; above a threshold amplitude, the life cycle bifurcates to a cyclonic wave breaking. The implications for storm track variability are quite direct. In normal years, at the entrance of the storm track, intense baroclinicity produces CVCs with a slight shift of the jet equatorward. At the last half of the storm track, due to much weaker baroclinicity, anticyclonic wave breaking occurs (AVCs) displacing the jet poleward. The eddies at the entrance of the storm track develop from the baroclinicity of the subtropical jet. Downstream fluxing and weaker surface baroclinicity make the upper-level waves more aloft and barotropic by the middle of the storm track. These waves normally break anticyclonically, enhancing the subpolar eddy-driven jet. In the warm phase of ENSO, more baroclinicity (and subtropical moisture flux) is present in the eastern Pacific Ocean. This enhanced baroclinicity could support more CVCs in the eastern basin, maintaining the subtropical jet further east.

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TL;DR: In this paper, a simple model is used to examine the qualitative effect of Langmuir circulation on the vertical diffusion of bubbles and the representation of the circulation in models of gas transfer.
Abstract: Concurrent measurements of the rate of dissipation of turbulent kinetic energy and the void fraction and size distribution of near-surface bubbles are described. Relatively high dissipation rates and void fractions are found in bubble bands produced by Langmuir circulation. The mean dissipation rates observed in the bands are close to those at which the dynamics of algae is significantly affected. The data are used to test basic assumptions underpinning models of subsurface bubbles and associated air–sea gas transfer. A simple model is used to examine the qualitative effect of Langmuir circulation on the vertical diffusion of bubbles and the representation of Langmuir circulation in models of gas transfer. The circulation is particularly effective in vertical bubble transfer when bubbles are injected by breaking waves to depths at which they are carried downward by the circulation against their tendency to rise. The estimated value of the ratio r of the eddy diffusivity of particles (resembling b...