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Wave flume

About: Wave flume is a(n) research topic. Over the lifetime, 1627 publication(s) have been published within this topic receiving 23335 citation(s).

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01 Nov 1992
Abstract: The main objective of the book is to describe from a deterministic point of view the sediment transport in the general wave-current situation. For this purpose, the book is divided into two major parts. The first part of the book is related to flow and turbulence in combined wave-current. This part covers the turbulent wave boundary layer, bed friction in combined wave-current motion, turbulence in the surf zone, and wave-driven currents in the long- and cross-shore direction. The second part treats the sediment transport as a result of the wave-current action. This part includes an introduction to basic sediment transport concepts, distribution of suspended sediment in the sheet flow regime, description of bedforms formed by current and waves, and their influence on sediment transport pattern. Finally, the modelling of cross- and long-shore sediment transport is described. This book is useful for students with a background in basic hydrodynamics.

898 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
Abstract: Salt marshes protect coastlines against waves. Wave flume experiments show that marsh vegetation causes substantial wave dissipation and prevents erosion of the underlying surface, even during extreme storm surge conditions.

470 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
Abstract: [1] The morphodynamic response of the nearshore zone of an embayed beach induced by wave groups is examined with a numerical model. The model utilizes the nonlinear shallow water equations to phase resolve the mean and infragravity motions in combination with an advection-diffusion equation for the sediment transport. The sediment transport associated with the short-wave asymmetry is accounted for by means of a time-integrated contribution of the wave nonlinearity using stream function theory. The two-dimensional (2-D) computations consider wave group energy made up of directionally spread, short waves with a zero mean approach angle with respect to the shore normal, incident on an initially alongshore uniform barred beach. Prior to the 2-D computations, the model is calibrated with prototype flume measurements of waves, currents, and bed level changes during erosive and accretive conditions. The most prominent feature of the 2-D model computations is the development of an alongshore quasi-periodic bathymetry of shoals cut by rip channels. Without directional spreading, the smallest alongshore separation of the rip channels is obtained, and the beach response is self-organizing in nature. Introducing a small amount of directional spreading (less than 2°) results in a strong increase in the alongshore length scales as the beach response changes from self-organizing to being quasi-forced. A further increase in directional spreading leads again to smaller length scales. The hypothesized correlation between the observed rip spacing and wave group forced edge waves over the initially alongshore uniform bathymetry is not found. However, there is a correlation between the alongshore length scales of the wave group-induced quasi-steady flow circulations and the eventual alongshore spacing of the rip channels. This suggests that the scouring associated with the quasi-steady flow induced by the initial wave groups triggers the development of rip channels via a positive feedback mechanism in which the small scour holes start attracting more and more discharge.

325 citations

11 Aug 2000
Abstract: Periodic Wave Pattern - the approach of differential calculus Periodic Wave Pattern - the control volume approach Wave Effects on Coasts Wind Generated Waves - basic concepts Analysis of the Sea States - the time domain The Wave Climate Design Waves and Risk Analysis Analysis of the Sea States in the Space-Time The Theory of Quasi-Determinism Uses and Consequences of the Quasi-Determinism Theory Analysis of the Wave Forces on Offshore Structures Calculation of the Wave Forces on Offshore Structures Stability Analysis of Coastal Structures Topics Calling for an Overall Overview of Offshore and Coastal Engineering.

311 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
Abstract: Landslide generated impulse waves were investigated in a two-dimensional physical laboratory model based on the generalized Froude similarity. The recorded wave profiles were extremely unsteady and nonlinear. Four wave types were determined: weakly nonlinear oscillatory wave, non-linear transition wave, solitary-like wave and dissipative transient bore. Most of the generated impulse waves were located in the intermediate water depth wave regime. Nevertheless the propagation velocity of the leading wave crest closely followed the theoretical approximations for a solitary wave. Between 4 and 50% of the kinetic slide impact energy propagated outward in the impulse wave train. The applicability ranges of the classical nonlinear wave theories to landslide generated impulse waves were determined. The main wave characteristics were related to the landslide parameters driving the entire wave generation process. The slide Froude number was identified as the dominant parameter. The physical model results were compared to the giant rockslide generated impulse wave which struck the shores of the Lituya Bay, Alaska, in 1958.

259 citations

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