Topic
Wave flume
About: Wave flume is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 1627 publications have been published within this topic receiving 23335 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, a wave flume with regular waves of very small amplitude-to-wavelength ratio (less than 0.01) was used to validate the oscillating surface pressure theory applied to wave energy absorption by oscillating water column (OWC) devices.
Abstract: Experiments were performed in a wave flume with regular waves of very small amplitude-to-wavelength ratio (less than 0.01). Their purpose was mainly the validation of the oscillating surface pressure theory of Sarmento and Falcao (1985) applied to wave energy absorption by oscillating water column (OWC) devices. Experimental and theoretical curves for the efficiency and for the reflection and transmission coefficients were obtained and compared. The test also included the validation of the two-wave-gauge experimental procedure used to decouple direct and reflected wave trains, as well as the effects of increasing the depth of immersion of the OWC overhang on the efficiency-wave period curves.
81 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the predictions of four sediment transport models have been compared with detailed laboratory data sets obtained in the bottom boundary layer beneath regular waves, asymmetrical waves, and regular waves superimposed co-linearly on a current.
81 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the theory of mass transport in water waves is re-examined and boundary-layer arguments are incorporated into the Lagrangian equations of motion, and the mass transport velocity is conveniently derived for both monochromatic and random waves.
Abstract: The theory of mass transport in water waves is re-examined. Boundary-layer arguments are incorporated into the Lagrangian equations of motion, and the mass transport velocity is conveniently derived for both monochromatic and random waves. For finite depth, Longuet-Higgins' result is confirmed. Conditions at the far end of a wave tank are found to be related to a mean pressure gradient, and results are also obtained for a truly infinite channel. The nonuniformity of the solution for the deep-water limit is discussed.
80 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of emergent coastal forests on the propagation of long surface waves of small amplitude were studied, where simple models were employed to represent bed friction and to simulate turbulence generated by flow through the tree trunks.
Abstract: We study the effects of emergent coastal forests on the propagation of long surface waves of small amplitude. The forest is idealized by an array of vertical cylinders. Simple models are employed to represent bed friction and to simulate turbulence generated by flow through the tree trunks. A multi-scale (homogenization) analysis similar to that for seepage flows is carried out to deduce the effective equations on the macro-scale. The effective coefficients are calculated by numerically solving the micro-scale problem in a unit cell surrounding one or several cylinders. Analytical and numerical solutions for wave attenuation on the macro-scale for different bathymetries and coastal forest configurations are presented. For a transient incident wave, analytical results are discussed for the damping of a leading tsunami. For comparison series of laboratory data for periodic and transient incident waves are also presented. Good agreement is found even though some of the measured waves are short or nonlinear.
80 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the process of sediment transport by non-breaking waves over horizontal, rippled beds is presented by three different models which are evaluated through comparison with wave flume data.
79 citations