Topic
Wave flume
About: Wave flume is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 1627 publications have been published within this topic receiving 23335 citations.
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TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the generation and propagation of water waves in a numerical viscous wave flume and showed that the wave height attenuation caused by the energy dissipation in the wave motion was consistent with the theoretical results.
Abstract: This study investigated the generation and propagation of water waves in a numerical viscous wave flume. The numerical scheme developed by Huang and collaborators for solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations for wavemaking problems was employed to generate different incident waves, including small- and finite-amplitude waves and solitary waves. The accuracy of the numerical results for the wave and velocity profiles was verified by comparison with the analytical solutions. The wave propagation in a numerical wave flume was also investigated. For periodic gravity waves on finite water depth, the results showed that waves with larger Ursell numbers are more stable than those with smaller Ursell numbers. The propagation of solitary waves in the channel is stable. For stable waves, the wave height attenuation caused by the energy dissipation in the wave motion was shown to be consistent with the theoretical results.
50 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the results of a study carried out in the Large Wave Flume (Groser Wellenkanal, GWK), where waves of periods between 30 s and more than 100 s at 1 m water depth were successfully generated with a piston type wave maker.
50 citations
01 Jan 2000
TL;DR: In this paper, Wiegel and Johnson proposed linearized wave theories for wave transformation in shoaling water, and showed the limits of applicability of these theories as applied to wave shapes and motion; including the effect of beach slope.
Abstract: Wiegel and Johnson (1950) summarized useable wave theories for deep and shallow water. Mason (1950) discussed waves in shoaling water and compared theoretical predictions with measurements. The theories are shown to apply, within practical limits, to periodic systems of deep water waves, and to periodic waves progressing over a shoaling bottom to wave positions near the breaking point.
Near and at the breaking position the wave features are not predicted from theory with desired accuracies and measured characteristics are used to describe breakers. The available measurements are limited and do not show the effects of variables such as the beach slope.
Recent work at the University of California has resulted in information on the limits of applicability of the linearized wave theories as applied to wave transformation in shoaling water, and on breaker shapes and motion; including the effect of beach slope.
50 citations
01 Sep 1959
TL;DR: In this paper, a laboratory investigation was conducted at the United States Army Engineer Waterways experiment station, Vickburg, Mississippi, to determine criteria for the design and construction of rubble mound breakwaters.
Abstract: This paper reports on a laboratory investigation conducted at the United States Army Engineer Waterways experiment station, Vickburg, Mississippi, to determine criteria for the design and construction of rubble mound breakwaters. Small-scale breakwater sections are hand-constructed in a concrete wave flume 119 ft long, 5ft wide, 4 ft deep, and subjected to mechanically generated waves to determine the stability of the armor units. A general stability equation has been derived and is being used to guide the experimental program and correlate the test data. From the test data obtained important unknown functions in the general stability equation have been determined for selected breakwater and test-wave conditions, and a new breakwater stability formula has been obtained. In conjunction with the stability tests, wave run-up data are obtained for each breakwater section and wave condition tested. Also, measurements are obtained that enable the thickness and porosity of cover layers composed of different types of armor units to be determined. The new stability formula and the experimental data obtained so far have provided essential information for an improved method of designing rubble-mound breakwaters with protective cover layers composed of quarry-stone and tetrapod armor units. Tests in progress (1959) to obtain experimental data for other special shapes of cast concrete armor units (cubes, tetrahedrons, and tribars) should increase considerably the accuracy of rubble-mound breakwater design.
48 citations