Wave flume

TL;DR: In this article, an innovative large scale experimental program is applied to develop runup equations for long propagating waves using a pneumatic generator with a controlled valve system, capable of exchanging large volumes of water with the propagation flume.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors examined the influence of the energy transformation and the energy dissipation on the hydrodynamic behavior of wave response around resonant conditions and showed that when slightly away from the resonant frequency, the energy disipation becomes the dominant factor for the decrease of the wave response in the narrow gap with increasing the incident wave amplitude.

TL;DR: In this article, a four-layer submerged horizontal porous plate breakwater is proposed to improve the wave-dissipation efficiency under a wide range of incident wave frequencies, especially long incident waves, and also discusses the design of the geometrical parameters, i.e., plate submergence and porosity.

TL;DR: In this article, an experimental study of the Eulerian drift induced by weakly asymmetrical progressive waves in the bottom boundary layer over rippled beds in the transitional flow regime is presented.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors present the wave energy resource assessment having in view the construction of an OWC (oscillating water column) to be integrated into a new breakwater at the mouth of the Douro River in Porto (northern Portugal).