Topic
Wave flume
About: Wave flume is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 1627 publications have been published within this topic receiving 23335 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, the authors used an iterative focussing procedure to generate a wave group with a pre-defined spectrum related to a modelled sea state with spilling breaking at a prescribed position.
30 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a set of Boussinesq equations were used to study the transformation of waves before, during and after wave breaking provided the bed slope is relatively gentle, and the ability of the developed model to compute wave-induced setdown and setup of regular waves propagating onto a submerged coral reef consisting of relatively steeper slopes.
30 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of specific surface s, the fluid-solid contact surface per volume unit, on the wave energy dissipation by porous structures consisting in dense arrays of emergent vertical cylinders was studied.
30 citations
DOI•
24 Jun 1993TL;DR: In this article, six different models for short term coastal profile modelling for direct incoming waves are compared and discussed, including wave height distribution, cross-shore current profiles and sediment transport.
Abstract: The present paper briefly presents 6 different models for short term coastal profile modelling for direct incoming waves. The models have been tested against measured profile evolutions from a large wave flume. Features such as wave height distribution, cross shore current profiles and sediment transport are compared and discussed.
29 citations