Wave flume

About: Wave flume is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 1627 publications have been published within this topic receiving 23335 citations.

A Two-Dimensional Numerical Wave Flume—Part 1: Nonlinear Wave Generation, Propagation, and Absorption

Abstract: A numerical model is developed to simulate fully nonlinear transient waves in a semiinfinite, two-dimensional wave tank. A mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian formulation is adopted and a high-order boundary element method is used to solve for the fluid motion at each time step. Input wave characteristics are specified at the upstream boundary of the computational domain using an appropriate wave theory. At the downstream boundary, a damping region is used in conjunction with a radiation condition to prevent wave reflections back into the computational domain. The convergence characteristics of the numerical model are studied and the numerical results are validated through a comparison with previous published data. @DOI: 10.1115/1.1365117#

Introduction to Coastal Dynamics and Shoreline Protection

Abstract: CHAPTER 1: Integrated approach to coastal dynamics Coastal dynamics basic approach Coastal erosion and remediation study Causes of coastal erosion Space and time scales Meteomarine factors Sediment transport and coastal structures Elements of coastal management CHAPTER 2: Beach morphology and sediment analysis Introduction Beach classification Beach morphology and sediment transport Seasonal profiles, bars and berms Equilibrium beach profile Sediment analysis Case study CHAPTER 3: Linear wave analysis Introduction to linear wave theory Results of the linear theory Case study CHAPTER 4: Sea level variability Introduction Astronomical tide Long waves (tsunami and seiches) Wave set-up and set-down Storm surge Case study CHAPTER 5: Random wave measurement and analysis Wave measurements Statistical properties of random waves Statistical representation of wave climate Case study CHAPTER 6: Short term wave prediction Introduction Elements of wind measurement analysis Wave prediction on deep water CHAPTER 7: Long term wave statistics Introduction Data fitting to the probability distribution Parameter calculation CHAPTER 8: Wave transformation in the coastal zone Wave energy and energy flux Refraction and shoaling Total reflection Wave diffraction Numerical models for wave propagation Finite depth spectral wave models Wave breaking CHAPTER 7: Sediment transport Introduction Basic concepts of sediment transport Basic shore processes CHAPTER 10: Beach profile modeling Cross-shore transport Cross-shore sediment transport and equilibrium beach profile Dean's model for equilibrium beach profile Processes of accretion and erosion Erosion/accretion parameters Analytical profile modelling Numerical beach profile modeling CHAPTER 11: Shoreline modeling Introduction Longshore transport Numerical shoreline modeling CHAPTER 12: Comparison and choice among alternative protection systems Introduction Insertion of protection systems on the coastline Shoreline protection systems Hard measures Soft measures Schematic indications for the choice Mechanisms of protection CHAPTER 13: Hydraulic design Dimensional analysis Wave run-up Ru and run-down Rd Overtopping discharge Transmission coefficient Reflections Case study CHAPTER 14: Structural design Introduction Structural stability Armour layers with concrete units Low-crested structures Reef breakwaters Statically stable low-crested breakwater Submerged breakwaters Filter and core characteristics Toe stability and protection Breakwater head stability Fundamentals of probabilistic design Deterministic design - case study CHAPTER 15: Beach fills Introduction Beach fill profile Volume computation Beach planform evolution Longevity of beach fills Effect of fill length and of wave climate Compatibility of the borrow material Sediment sources Monitoring

Wave-Driven Mean Flow Dynamics in Submerged Canopies

Abstract: The physical roughness (canopies) formed by organisms within aquatic ecosystems (e.g., seagrass, kelp, and mangroves) modifies the local wave-driven hydrodynamics within coastal and estuarine regions. In wave-dominated environments, an understanding of the mean wave-driven flows generated within and above canopies is important, as it governs material transport (e.g., of nutrients, sediment, and biota). However, until recently the effect of submerged canopies on wave-current interactions and the resulting mean (wave-averaged) flow dynamics has received relatively little attention. In this study, a combination of wave flume experiments and numerical modeling is used to investigate the wave-induced mean flow profiles in the presence of a submerged canopy. The measured velocities and vegetation forces were used to derive bulk drag and inertia coefficients, and to validate a nonhydrostatic 2DV wave-flow model. The numerical model results were used to conduct an in-depth analysis of the mean horizontal momentum terms responsible for driving the mean (horizontal) flow within and above the submerged canopies. We show that the mean canopy hydrodynamics are driven by vertical gradients in wave and turbulent Reynolds stresses, balanced by the mean canopy drag forces. The wave Reynolds stress gradient is the dominant force driving the in-canopy mean flow and is directly related to the vorticity that is generated when the wave orbital motions become rotational near the canopy interface. This study provides new insight in the mechanisms responsible for wave-driven mean flows within submerged canopies and guidance for how these hydrodynamics can be predicted in coastal wave-circulation models.