Topic

# Wave height

About: Wave height is a(n) research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publication(s) have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citation(s).

##### Papers published on a yearly basis

##### Papers

More filters

••

29 Jan 1978TL;DR: In this article, a model was developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach and the probability of occurrence of breaking waves was estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth.

Abstract: A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth A comparison with measurements of wave height decay and set-up, on a plane beach and on a beach with a bar-trough profile, indicates that the model is capable of predicting qualitatively and quantitatively all the main features of the data

1,380 citations

••

TL;DR: In this paper, a model is developed for the marine atmospheric surface layer including the interfacial sublayers on both sides of the air-sea interface where molecular constraints on transports are important.

Abstract: A model is developed for the marine atmospheric surface layer including the interfacial sublayers on both sides of the air-sea interface where molecular constraints on transports are important. Flux-profile relations which are based on the postulation of intermittent renewal of the surface fluid aye matched to the logarithmic profiles and compared with both field and laboratory measurements. These relations enable numerical determination of air-sea exchanges of momentum, heat and water vapor (or bulk transfer coefficients) employing the bulk parameters of mean wind speed, temperature and humidity at a certain height in the atmospheric surface layer, and the water temperature. With increasing wind speed, the flow goes from smooth to rough and the bulk transfer coefficient for momentum also increases. The increase in roughness is associated with increasing wave height which in the present model results in sheltering at the wave troughs. Due to the decrease in turbulent transports, the transfer coef...

975 citations

••

TL;DR: In this paper, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions.

Abstract: Using shoreline water-level time series collected during 10 dynamically diverse field experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions. Runup, the height of discrete water-level maxima, depends on two dynamically different processes; time-averaged wave setup and total swash excursion, each of which is parameterized separately. Setup at the shoreline was best parameterized using a dimensional form of the more common Iribarren-based setup expression that includes foreshore beach slope, offshore wave height, and deep-water wavelength. Significant swash can be decomposed into the incident and infragravity frequency bands. Incident swash is also best parameterized using a dimensional form of the Iribarren-based expression. Infragravity swash is best modeled dimensionally using offshore wave height and wavelength and shows no statistically significant linear dependence on either foreshore or surf-zone slope. On infragravity-dominated dissipative beaches, the magnitudes of both setup and swash, modeling both incident and infragravity frequency components together, are dependent only on offshore wave height and wavelength. Statistics of predicted runup averaged over all sites indicate a − 17 cm bias and an rms error of 38 cm: the mean observed runup elevation for all experiments was 144 cm. On intermediate and reflective beaches with complex foreshore topography, the use of an alongshore-averaged beach slope in practical applications of the runup parameterization may result in a relative runup error equal to 51% of the fractional variability between the measured and the averaged slope.

892 citations

••

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors reviewed earlier models of random wave transformation and described the transformation of waves, including dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction, by an energy flux balance model, and compared results from random wave experiments in the laboratory and from an extensive set of field measurements.

Abstract: Earlier models of random wave transformation are reviewed in the first section. Then the transformation of waves, including dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction, is described by an energy flux balance model. The wave height pdf of all waves (broken and unbroken) is shown by the field data to be well described by the Rayleigh distribution everywhere. The observed distributions of breaking and broken wave heights are fitted to simple analytical forms, and breaking wave dissipation is calculated by using a periodic bore formulation. The energy flux equation is integrated to yield local values of Hrms as a function of offshore wave conditions. Both analytical and numerical models are developed. In the last section the models are compared with results from random wave experiments in the laboratory and from an extensive set of field measurements.

839 citations

••

TL;DR: This work presents the first experimental results with observations of the Peregrine soliton in a water wave tank, and proposes a new approach to modeling deep water waves using the nonlinear Schrödinger equation.

Abstract: The conventional definition of rogue waves in the ocean is that their heights, from crest to trough, are more than about twice the significant wave height, which is the average wave height of the largest one-third of nearby waves. When modeling deep water waves using the nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation, the most likely candidate satisfying this criterion is the so-called Peregrine solution. It is localized in both space and time, thus describing a unique wave event. Until now, experiments specifically designed for observation of breather states in the evolution of deep water waves have never been made in this double limit. In the present work, we present the first experimental results with observations of the Peregrine soliton in a water wave tank.

795 citations