Showing papers on "Wave height published in 2010"

Global trends in wind speed and wave height over the past 25 years

Abstract: Wind speeds over the world’s oceans have increased over the past two decades, as have wave heights. Studies of climate change typically consider measurements or predictions of temperature over extended periods of time. Climate, however, is much more than temperature. Over the oceans, changes in wind speed and the surface gravity waves generated by such winds play an important role. We used a 23-year database of calibrated and validated satellite altimeter measurements to investigate global changes in oceanic wind speed and wave height over this period. We find a general global trend of increasing values of wind speed and, to a lesser degree, wave height, over this period. The rate of increase is greater for extreme events as compared to the mean condition.

Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves: Part I, definition, calibration and validation. Fabrice ArdhuinJean-Francois Filipot and Rudy Magne Service Hydrographique et Oceanographique de la Marine, Brest, France

Abstract: New parameterizations for the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and wave breaking only affects spectral components such that the non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced, together with a reduction of wind-wave generation term for short waves, otherwise taken from Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations probably yield the most accurate overall estimate of wave parameters to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.

Influence of storm surges and sea level on shallow tidal basin erosive processes

Abstract: [1] The finite-element model WWTM is applied to a system of lagoons at the Virginia Coast Reserve, USA. The model solves the shallow water equations to compute tidal fluxes, and is equipped with a wave propagation module to calculate wave height during local wind events. The model is validated using measured water elevations, wave heights, and periods at five locations within the lagoon system. Scenarios with different wind conditions, storm surges, and relative sea level are simulated. Results are analyzed in terms of bottom shear stresses on the tidal flats, a measure of sediment resuspension potential, and total wave energy impacting the marsh boundaries, which is the chief process driving lateral marsh erosion. Results indicate that wave energy at the marsh boundaries is more sensitive to wind direction than are bottom shear stresses. Wave energy on marsh boundaries and bottom shear stresses on the tidal flats increase with sea level elevation, with the former increasing almost ten times more than the latter. Both positive and negative feedbacks between wave energy at the boundaries and bottom shear stresses are predicted, depending on the fate of the sediments eroded from the salt marsh boundaries.

Wave setup over a Pacific Island fringing reef

Abstract: [1] Measurements obtained across a shore-attached, fringing reef on the southeast coast of the island of Guam are examined to determine the relationship between incident waves and wave-driven setup during storm and nonstorm conditions. Wave setup on the reef flat correlates well (r > 0.95) and scales near the shore as approximately 35% of the incident root mean square wave height in 8 m water depth. Waves generated by tropical storm Man-Yi result in a 1.3 m setup during the peak of the storm. Predictions based on traditional setup theory (steady state, inviscid cross-shore momentum and depth-limited wave breaking) and an idealized model of localized wave breaking at the fore reef are in agreement with the observations. The reef flat setup is used to estimate a similarity parameter at breaking that is in agreement with observations from a steeply sloping sandy beach. A weak (∼10%) increase in setup is observed across the reef flat during wave events. The inclusion of bottom stress in the cross-shore momentum balance may account for a portion of this signal, but this assessment is inconclusive as the reef flat currents in some cases are in the wrong direction to account for the increase. An independent check of fringing reef setup dynamics is carried out for measurements at the neighboring island of Saipan with good agreement.

Modeling wave impact on salt marsh boundaries

Abstract: [1] Wind-wave attack is the fundamental cause of erosion of salt marsh boundaries. Tidal forcing acts as a proxy determining at which elevation waves pound against the marsh edge and conditioning the propagation and transformation of wave trains as they move toward these boundaries. The objective of the present work is to evaluate, through analysis of the results of a numerical model, the effect of wave action on marsh boundaries as a function of tidal elevation and wave height for different edge configurations. In order to link numerical simulations to field conditions, the model inputs are based on topographical and hydrodynamical surveys conducted at a study site at the Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR), VA. Model results show that the wave thrust on the marsh scarp strongly depends on tidal level. The thrust increases with tidal elevation until the marsh is submerged and then rapidly decreases. The wave thrust is maximum for a vertical scarp and minimum for a terraced scarp. Similarly, wave energy dissipation is maximized just above the marsh platform elevation, when wave reflection is reduced and wave breaking occurs at the marsh edge.

Wave-Breaking Model for Boussinesq-Type Equations Including Roller Effects in the Mass Conservation Equation

Abstract: We investigate the ability of a 1D fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.

Influence of storm surges and sea level on shallow tidal basin erosive processes

Abstract: [1] The finite-element model WWTM is applied to a system of lagoons at the Virginia Coast Reserve, USA. The model solves the shallow water equations to compute tidal fluxes, and is equipped with a wave propagation module to calculate wave height during local wind events. The model is validated using measured water elevations, wave heights, and periods at five locations within the lagoon system. Scenarios with different wind conditions, storm surges, and relative sea level are simulated. Results are analyzed in terms of bottom shear stresses on the tidal flats, a measure of sediment resuspension potential, and total wave energy impacting the marsh boundaries, which is the chief process driving lateral marsh erosion. Results indicate that wave energy at the marsh boundaries is more sensitive to wind direction than are bottom shear stresses. Wave energy on marsh boundaries and bottom shear stresses on the tidal flats increase with sea level elevation, with the former increasing almost ten times more than the latter. Both positive and negative feedbacks between wave energy at the boundaries and bottom shear stresses are predicted, depending on the fate of the sediments eroded from the salt marsh boundaries.

Wind-enhanced resuspension in the shallow waters of South San Francisco Bay: Mechanisms and potential implications for cohesive sediment transport

Abstract: [1] We investigated the driving forces of sediment dynamics at the shoals in South San Francisco Bay. Two stations were deployed along a line perpendicular to a 14 m deep channel, 1000 and 2000 m from the middle of the channel. Station depths were 2.59 and 2.19 m below mean lower low water, respectively. We used acoustic Doppler velocimeters for the simultaneous determination of current velocities, turbulence, sediment concentration and fluxes. Maximum current shear velocities were 0.015 m s−1 at the station further from the channel (closer to the shore) and 0.02 m s−1 at the station closer to the channel. Peak wave-induced shear velocities exceeded 0.015 m s−1 at both stations. Maximum sediment concentrations were around 30 g m−3 during calm periods (root mean square wave height 0.10 g m−2 s−1) at the station further from the channel 0.36 m above the bed. Closer to the channel, sediment concentrations and vertical fluxes due to wind wave resuspension were persistently lower (maximum concentrations around 50 g m−3 and maximum fluxes around 0.04 g m−2 s−1). Most resuspension events occurred during flood tides that followed wave events during low water. Although wave motions are able to resuspend sediment into the wave boundary layer at low tide, the observed large increases in sediment fluxes are due to the nonlinear interaction of wind waves and the tidal currents.

Short-term statistics of waves observed in deep water

Abstract: The short?term statistics of 10 million individual waves observed with buoys in deep water have been investigated, corrected for a sample?rate bias, and normalized with the standard deviation of the surface elevation (the range of normalized wave heights is 0 < H < 10). The observed normalized trough depths are found to be Rayleigh distributed with near?perfect scaling. The normalized crest heights are also Rayleigh distributed but 3% higher than given by the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The observed normalized wave heights are not well predicted by the conventional Rayleigh distribution (overprediction by 9.5% on average), but they are very well predicted by Rayleigh?like distributions obtained from linear theories and by an empirical Weibull distribution (errors <1.5%). These linear theories also properly predict the observed monotonic variation of the normalized wave heights with the (de?)correlation between crest height and trough depth. The theoretical Rayleigh?like distributions may therefore be preferred over the empirical Weibull distribution and certainly over the conventional Rayleigh distribution. The values of the observed expected maximum wave height (normalized) as a function of duration are consistent with these findings. To inspect nonlinear effects, the buoy observations were supplemented with 10,000 waves observed with laser altimeters mounted on a fixed platform (0 < H< 7). The (normalized) crest heights thus observed are typically 5% higher than those observed with the buoys, whereas the (normalized) trough depths are typically 12% shallower. The distribution of the normalized wave heights thus observed is practically identical to the distribution observed with the buoys. These findings suggest that crest heights and trough depths are affected by nonlinear effects, but wave heights are not. One wave in our buoy observations may qualify as a freak wave.

Observations of Turbulence within a Natural Surf Zone

Abstract: Here, the Reynolds stresses 〈u′w′〉 and 〈υ′w′〉, where u′, υ′, and w′ are the cross-shore, alongshore, and vertical turbulence velocities, respectively, and the angle brackets represent time averaging, are used to diagnose turbulence dynamics beneath natural breaking surf-zone waves. The data were collected at Truc Vert Beach, France, during a 12-day period in 1–3-m water depth with strong cross-shore and alongshore currents under high-energy wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights ranged between 2 and 8 m). The 〈u′w′〉 term is predominantly negative, increases with the ratio of wave height Hs to water depth h (∼degree of wave breaking), and decreases in magnitude toward the bed. This supports the view that the cross-shore shear stress is due to breaking-induced vortices that transport high-speed cross-shore flow downward and disintegrate close to the bed. The occasional positive sign of 〈u′w′〉 within the lower 15%–20% of the water column indicates that sometimes surface-generated turbule...

Investigation of Ocean Surface Wave Refraction Using TerraSAR-X Data

Abstract: As a scientific and technological continuation of the X-band Synthetic Aperture Radar (X-SAR) and Shuttle Radar Topography Mission (SRTM) missions, the new X-SAR, namely, TerraSAR-X (TSX), was launched on June 15, 2007. Since then, it has provided numerous high-quality data over land and ocean operationally. In this paper, surface wave refraction and diffraction are investigated using TSX imagery acquired over the coast of Terceira island situated in the North Atlantic. Peak wavelength and wave direction are determined by SAR 2-D image spectra. They are compared to measurements of X-band marine radar and results of the WAve prediction Model (WAM). Significant wave height in the near-shore shallow water region is estimated from TSX Spotlight mode data following the wave refraction laws and using the developed XWAVE empirical algorithm. Image spectra of the TSX subscenes in the full-coverage region are given to investigate significant changes of wave direction and length. By analyzing another TSX image acquired in StripMap mode, a shadow zone in the lee side of Terceira island is identified. It is influenced jointly by wave refraction and diffraction. Furthermore, a cross-sea pattern revealed in the image spectra is investigated. The cross sea is generated by the diffracted wave rays from the northern and southern coasts of the island. Less wave directional spreading for the cross-sea situation is observed as well when compared to the image spectra at the origin of diffraction.

Method and apparatus for coherent marine radar measurements of properties of ocean waves and currents

Abstract: A method and apparatus of determining a wave height directional spectrum of an ocean wave field using the intermediate-frequency (IF) signal from marine radars with a rotating antenna, using either a fully coherent or a standard non-coherent transmitter/receiver modified for coherent-on-receive use. The method may include receiving the IF radar ocean surface echo signal for a series of transmit pulses, at a sequence of azimuthal antenna positions, and a number of antenna rotations covering several minutes, then generating a matrix of complex IF signal samples from these, deriving phases for each sample, generating the difference in phase for consecutive azimuths, then Doppler shifts, and finally radial velocities. These are interpolated to a Cartesian-transformed representation cube of samples, a subset of which is Fourier transformed in three dimensions, filtered, and the resulting power spectrum generated is used to derive ocean wave height directional spectra, frequency spectra, and root-mean-squared wave height.

Data assimilation and bathymetric inversion in a two‐dimensional horizontal surf zone model

Abstract: [1] A methodology is described for assimilating observations in a steady state two-dimensional horizontal (2-DH) model of nearshore hydrodynamics (waves and currents), using an ensemble-based statistical estimator. In this application, we treat bathymetry as a model parameter, which is subject to a specified prior uncertainty. The statistical estimator uses state augmentation to produce posterior (inverse, updated) estimates of bathymetry, wave height, and currents, as well as their posterior uncertainties. A case study is presented, using data from a 2-D array of in situ sensors on a natural beach (Duck, NC). The prior bathymetry is obtained by interpolation from recent bathymetric surveys; however, the resulting prior circulation is not in agreement with measurements. After assimilating data (significant wave height and alongshore current), the accuracy of modeled fields is improved, and this is quantified by comparing with observations (both assimilated and unassimilated). Hence, for the present data, 2-DH bathymetric uncertainty is an important source of error in the model and can be quantified and corrected using data assimilation. Here the bathymetric uncertainty is ascribed to inadequate temporal sampling; bathymetric surveys were conducted on a daily basis, but bathymetric change occurred on hourly timescales during storms, such that hydrodynamic model skill was significantly degraded. Further tests are performed to analyze the model sensitivities used in the assimilation and to determine the influence of different observation types and sampling schemes.

Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking

Abstract: The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell's law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.

Are wind wave heights increasing in south-eastern south American continental shelf between 32°S and 40°S?

Abstract: In this paper, a possible increase in wind wave heights in the south-eastern south American continental shelf between 32°S and 40°S is investigated. Both time series of in situ (1996–2006) and topex (1993–2001) annual mean significant wave heights gathered at the continental shelf and adjacent ocean present apparent positive trends. Even though these trends are not statistically different from zero, it must be taken into account that the available in situ and satellite data have a short span and, moreover, in situ data present several gaps. Several papers presented evidence about a possible change on the low atmospheric circulation in this region of the southern hemisphere. Consequently, a weak increase in wave height might be occurring, which would be hard to quantify due to the shortness and the insufficiency of the available observations. In order to study a possible trend in mean annual wind wave heights simulating waves nearshore (swan) model forced with ncep/ncar surface wind was implemented in a regional domain for the period 1971–2005. The annual root-mean-square heights of the simulated wave show significant trends at several locations of the inner continental shelf and the adjacent ocean. The most significant increase is observed between 1991–2000 and 1981–1990 decades. The largest difference (0.20 m, 9%) occurs around 34°S–48°W. The wave height increase is somewhat lower, 7%, in the continental shelf and in the rio de la plata estuary. The annual mean energy density (spatially averaged) also presents a significant positive trend (0.036 m2/yr) and relatively high inter-annual variability. The possible link between this inter-annual variability and el nino–southern oscillation (enso) was investigated but no apparent relationship was found. A possible increase in the annual mean energy density of waves would be able to produce changes in the littoral processes and, consequently, in the erosion of the coast.

A note on Doppler processing of coherent radar backscatter from the water surface: With application to ocean surface wave measurements

Abstract: [1] The technique for extracting wave period and wave direction from radar backscattering intensity is well developed, but the determination of spectral density or wave height is hindered by the complex nature of the modulation transfer function. In contrast to backscattering intensity, the Doppler signal of a coherent radar is originated from the radial velocity of the scattering objects. Its oscillatory component is contributed by ocean waves. The peak component of the Doppler velocity spectrum can be used to obtain the spectral peak wave period and the significant wave height can be calculated from the variance of the Doppler velocity. Analyses of coherent radar measurements collected from the ocean show that with radar range coverage on the order of 10 dominant wavelengths, a good estimate of peak wave period and significant wave height is achievable with radar data as short as a few seconds.

Nearshore wave height variation in unsaturated surf

Abstract: The nearshore evolution of wave height is presented from field observations during unsaturated surf conditions from 10 different beaches characterized by microtidal conditions and predominantly swell-dominated wave climates. Wave evolution is presented in terms of wave height to water depth ratio (gamma) for comparison with previous data from saturated surf. Both conventional time-averaged (gamma(rms)) and a new wave-by-wave analysis (gamma(w)) are performed. Values of gamma increase with increasing offshore wave height, indicating unsaturated surf. The observations show a variation in gamma values from near constant values in the mid surf zone to rapidly and asymptotically increasing gamma values in the inner surf zone. In contrast to previous data from saturated surf, gamma shows no dependence on either the absolute beach slope or the relative beach slope beta/k (h) over bar. The skewness of the distributions of gamma(w) is consistent with waves that are not depth limited. The inner surf zone wave heights are approximately equally dependent on the water depth and offshore wave height. The previous observations of gamma from saturated surf are shown to be consistent with a terminal bore height at the shoreline which is in excellent agreement with a previously derived value for the Miche parameter. In contrast, for the present unsaturated surf conditions, the terminal bore height at the shoreline can be approximated by H-b approximate to 0.12H(o), which is consistent with recent laboratory data sets.

Vortex shedding from a submerged rectangular obstacle attacked by a solitary wave

Abstract: This study investigates the two-dimensional flow of a solitary wave that passes over a submerged rectangular obstacle using a Lagrangian-type numerical method. The main purpose is to investigate vortex generation and evolution caused by the obstacle. The numerical method is based on the combination of vortex methods and boundary integral methods using the Helmholtz decomposition. The simulated flow pattern is compared with the experimental measurements in detail, and the overall agreement is reasonably good. A series of simulations were performed with various wave heights to study the effect of wave height on vortex generation and evolution. The relation between the vorticity field and the drag experienced by the obstacle is also discussed. In the presented cases, the effects of the generated vortices are preserved over a long period, and may cause local scouring of the foundation at the lee side of the obstacle. The deformation of the solitary wave is not much affected by the presence of the vortices, but the drag is significantly affected by the vorticity field. An almost linear relationship between the Reynolds number and the maximum magnitude of the drag (positive and negative) is observed.

Numerical simulation of a tsunami event during the 1996 volcanic eruption in Karymskoye lake, Kamchatka, Russia

Abstract: . Karymskoye caldera lake is a nearly circular body of water with a diameter of approximately 4 km and a depth of up to 60 m. The sublacustrine, Surtseyan-type eruption in the lake on 2–3 January 1996 included a series of underwater explosions. A field survey conducted the following summer showed signs of tsunami wave runup around the entire coastline of the lake, with a maximum of 29 m runup at the north shore near the source of the eruption, and 2–5 m runup at locations on the east and south shore far away from the source. The tsunami has been simulated using the numerical long wave model COULWAVE, with input from reconstructed realistic pre-eruption bathymetry. The tsunami source was chosen as suggested by Le Mehaute (1971) and Mirchina and Pelinovsky (1988). The initial wave was prescribed by a parabolic shape depression with a radius of R=200 m, and a height of 23 m at the rim of the parabola. Simulations were conducted to show principle directions for wave propagation, wave speed and arrival time for the leading wave group at the shore, and the distribution of wave height throughout the lake. Estimated result for wave runup are of the same order of magnitude as field measurements, except near the source of the eruption and at a few locations where analysis show significant wave breaking.