Topic
Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, a new statistical, process-response model of soft cliff erosion is proposed, based on the premise that wave energy delivered to the cliff toe is the key parameter forcing erosion.
52 citations
TL;DR: In this article, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring, and a good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%).
Abstract: Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004-2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide, (ii) storm surge, and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,-1, and high tide water level – HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index.
52 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the authors examined the effect of a shallow shelf obstacle on nonlinear long wave runup and found that for weakly nonlinear waves 0.1, due to front steepening over the obstacle, greater overland velocities can result from increasing obstacle length.
Abstract: A study is presented to examine the one-horizontal dimension effect of a shallow shelf obstacle on nonlinear long wave runup. Due to the large horizontal-vertical aspect ratio of this problem, it is not well suited for experimental analysis, and therefore this study is purely numerical. Simulations are performed for various incident wave conditions, obstacle height and widths, and final beach slopes. Many of the setups involve breaking, either through approaching the obstacle as a large breaking bore, incipient breaking on top of the obstacle, or breaking during the beach uprush. The general conclusion of this study is that, for highly nonlinear waves wave height/shelf water depth 0.5, the obstacle will always act to reduce the runup and the maximum overland velocity. However, for very small obstacle lengths, particularly for extremely large waves, this reduction may be practically inconsequential. Interestingly, for weakly nonlinear waves 0.1, due to front steepening over the obstacle, greater overland velocities can result from increasing obstacle length. Consistent with previous studies, it is found that the final beach slope is of primary importance for determining the runup.
52 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that the average wave height of the 50 highest waves reaching a rubble-mound breakwater in its useful life can describe the effect of the wave height on the history of the damage caused by the wave climate during the structure's usable life.
52 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a comparison of four different numerical wave prediction models for hindcast wave conditions in Lake Michigan during a 10-day episode in October 1988 is presented, and the results show that while the individual model predictions deviate from the measurements by various amounts, they all tend to reflect the general trend and patterns of the wave measurements.
52 citations