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Wave height

About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.


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Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors presented the first global verification of the WAM model over a full 1-year period, where the hindcast wave heights were compared with measurements obtained by the Geosat radar altimeter.
Abstract: The high quality of wave fields simulated by the third-generation wave model WAM has already been demonstrated in various validation studies using in situ measurements as well as data from satellites as reference. However, owing to limitations of the reference data sets, the previous studies concentrated on relatively small regions or short time periods only, for which adequate measurements were available. In this paper the first global verification of the WAM model over a full 1-year period is presented. The significant wave heights hindcast for 1988 by the WAM model as implemented at the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts are compared with measurements obtained by the Geosat radar altimeter. The wave heights from WAM and Geosat show good agreement in general. However, significant regional and seasonal differences are found. The underestimation of WAM wave heights in the southern hemisphere, which was already known from a validation study for the Seasat period, shows significant seasonal variations. The hindcast wave heights are underestimated by about 20% in large parts of the southern hemisphere and the tropical region during May-;September. For the rest of the time, the agreement with Geosat data is fairly good. Together with the fact that also the rms variability of wave heights in the tropical region is clearly underestimated by WAM, this can possibly be attributed to simplifications like the neglect of atmospheric stratification effects when converting wind speeds to the wind stress fields driving WAM. Furthermore, the intercomparison indicates that low wave heights below ∼ 1.5 m are generally overestimated by WAM. As it is planned to use altimeter wave heights for updating wave models in future data assimilation systems, it is quite important to have efficient quality control criteria for these data. We show that some additional Geosat parameters, e.g., the off-nadir angle of the altimeter, can be useful quality parameters. The difference between the Geosat and WAM wave heights shows a clear dependence on the additional parameters in some cases, which must be related to quality problems of the Geosat data. Some new criteria for the rejection of incorrect Geosat data points are obtained.

47 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a 3D computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model based on the RANS equations and volume of fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme was developed and validated against the experimental data, and an extensive campaign of computational tests was performed to discover the impact of testing such an offshore OWC in a 2D domain or a wave flume on device efficiency.

47 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, an intertidal bar and trough system on the beach of Noordwijk, The Netherlands was monitored over a 15-month period in order to examine the daily to seasonal sequential cross-shore behaviour and to establish which conditions force or interrupt this cyclic bar behaviour.
Abstract: In this study, an intertidal bar and trough system on the beach of Noordwijk, The Netherlands was monitored over a 15-month period in order to examine the daily to seasonal sequential cross-shore behaviour and to establish which conditions force or interrupt this cyclic bar behaviour. The beach morphology (bars and troughs) was classified from low-tide Argus video images based on surface composition. From the classified images, time series of the landward boundary of the bar and of the trough were extracted. The time series of the alongshore-averaged boundary positions described sawtooth motion with a period between 1 and 4 months, comprising gradual landward migration followed by abrupt seaward shifts. The abrupt seaward shift appeared to be a morphological reset induced by storm events, which lasted at least 30 h with a large average root-mean-square wave height (≥2 m) and offshore surge level (≥0·5 m), and a small trough (<20 m wide) in the pre-storm beach morphology. The time series of the boundary positions exhibited very little longer (seasonal) scale variability, but somewhat larger smaller (daily) scale variability. The bar boundary was found to be more dynamic than the trough boundary. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

47 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
23 Sep 2017-Energy
TL;DR: In this article, a reanalysis of the past century ERA20 has been calibrated via quantile-matching against the reanalysis ERA-Interim in their intersection period (1979-2010).

47 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the inherent directionality of sea states is used to develop a model for the directional dependence of distributions of storm maxima, and an objective risk-cost approach is proposed for optimising directional criteria, while preserving overall reliability.

47 citations


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Performance
Metrics
No. of papers in the topic in previous years
YearPapers
2023166
2022326
2021251
2020262
2019272
2018242