Topic
Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, a Takagi-Sugeno-rule-based Fuzzy Inference System (FIS) was developed aiming at forecasting wave parameters based on the wind speed and direction, and the lagged-wave characteristics.
40 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the wave attenuation through mangrove forests has received more and more attention, especially in the context of increasing coastal erosion and sea-level-rise, and a method to quantify vegetation attenuation induced by vegetation is presented.
40 citations
TL;DR: Based on wind data from the Vilsandi meteorological station and a 5-month calibration measurement with a bottom-mounted Recording Doppler Current Profiler (RDCP), a semi-empirical hindcast of wave parameters near the quickly developing accumulative Kelba Spit is presented for the period 1966-2006 as mentioned in this paper.
40 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a model for predicting the rate of short-term bluff recession, originally derived from wave-tank experiments, was tested under field conditions, and the model was applied to two eroding Tertiary cliffs in Japan, both facing the Pacific Ocean.
Abstract: A model for predicting the rate of short-term bluff recession, originally derived from wave-tank experiments, is tested under field conditions. The fundamental equation is dX/dt = k[C + ln (ρgH/Sc)] where dX/dt is the recession rate, H is the wave height at the cliff base, Sc is the compressive strength of the cliff-forming material, ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, C is a nondimensional constant, and k is a constant with units of [LT-1]. The critical wave height to initiate erosion, Hcrit., is given by Hcrit. = Sce-C/ρg. This model is applied to two eroding Tertiary cliffs in Japan, both facing the Pacific Ocean. Results show that (1) the larger but rarer waves only cause cliff erosion, compared with the smaller but more common waves, and (2) the erosion rate at each site is greatly affected by the occurrence frequency of waves higher than Hcrit..
40 citations
TL;DR: A hybrid model developed by combining the empirical orthogonal function analysis and wavelet analysis with the neural network is proven to be a promising tool for forecasting wave heights at multiple locations where the past wave height data and the past and future meteorological data in the surrounding area are available.
40 citations