Topic
Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, Delft3D, a coastal hydrodynamic modeling system, capable of simulating hydrodynamical processes due to waves, tides, rivers, winds and coastal currents, is used to predict the nearshore wave and longshore currents near Pinheiro da Cruz.
37 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a series of laboratory observations undertaken in a purpose-built wave flume was used to simulate a range of realistic ocean spectra evolving over a number of mild bed slopes (m ).
37 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the role of wave height data in ocean wave forecasting is discussed and some assumptions to obtain wave height from the radar backscattered pulse are discussed, and a method is proposed to remove this problem.
37 citations
TL;DR: The Sea Wave Attenuation Measurement Program (SWAMP) was designed to provide measurements of the attenuation of waves as they travel from deep water to relatively shallow water off the Mississippi Delta as mentioned in this paper.
Abstract: The Sea Wave Attenuation Measurement Program (SWAMP) was designed to provide measurements of the attenuation of waves as they travel from deep water to relatively shallow water off the Mississippi Delta. The soft bottom was suspected of causing strong attenuation in the area. This effect has now been measured. A wave staff and electromagnetic current meter were used to estimate directional wave spectra at the Cognac platform in 312 m (1025 feet) of water and at platform VV in South Pass Block 27 in 19 m (63 feet) of water. In addition, measurements of vertical bottom motion were made at platform VV. Seven storm periods from Sepember 1979 to February 1981 were studied. The directional spectral comparisons showed that the theoretically calculated refraction and shoaling can explain the changes in the spectra when the wave height is low. However, as the wave height increases, a nonlinear attenuation mechanism becomes increasingly strong. The attenuation is a strong function of deep-water wave height and a weak function of wave frequency. The bottom motion measurements showed that the bottom moved downward with small amplitude under wave crests.
37 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a new amplification factor method is developed that takes into account the offshore bathymetry proximal to the coastal site, and the model is the first general approximate model that quantifies inundation height uncertainty.
Abstract: Regional and global tsunami hazard analysis requires simplified and efficient methods for estimating the tsunami inundation height and its related uncertainty. One such approach is the amplification factor (AF) method. Amplification factors describe the relation between offshore wave height and the maximum inundation height, as predicted by linearized plane wave models employed for incident waves with different wave characteristics. In this study, a new amplification factor method is developed that takes into account the offshore bathymetry proximal to the coastal site. The present AFs cover the North-Eastern Atlantic and Mediterranean (NEAM) region. The model is the first general approximate model that quantifies inundation height uncertainty. Uncertainty quantification is carried out by analyzing the inundation height variability in more than 500 high-resolution inundation simulations at six different coastal sites. The inundation simulations are undertaken with different earthquake sources in order to produce different wave period and polarity. We show that the probability density of the maximum inundation height can be modeled with a log-normal distribution, whose median is quite well predicted by the AF. It is further demonstrated that the associated maximum inundation height uncertainties are significant and must be accounted for in tsunami hazard analysis. The application to the recently developed TSUMAPS-NEAM probabilistic tsunami hazard analysis (PTHA) is presented as a use case.
37 citations