Topic
Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, the spatial and temporal variability of the beach is split by empirical orthogonal function decomposition, with a decoupling in spatial shoreline response to wave climate with a more immediate effect in cross-shore sediment transport than in alongshore sediment transfer.
32 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the maximum stable wave height, compatible with the depth, is approached from above, while in bottom up environments, it is approaching from below, and the analyses of field data from these two environments are compared.
32 citations
29 Jan 1966
TL;DR: In this paper, a series of experiments were run in a two-dimensional wave channel to study solitary wave deformation on plane slopes ranging from horizontal to vertical, and the results showed that the deformation process can be classified as a function of the ratio of initial wave height to water depth and beach slope.
Abstract: A series of experiments were run in a two-dimensional wave channel to study solitary wave deformation on plane slopes ranging from horizontal to vertical. The test objectives included verification of deformation theories, delineation of the shoaling processes associated with various beach slopes, and examination of the limit-height-wave concept. The results showed that the deformation process can be classified as a function of the ratio of initial wave height to water depth and beach slope. The deformation theory for reflection from a vertical wall was verified, but the theory for low slopes was found to be only qualitatively accurate. Finally, a redefinition of the limit-height wave on sloping beaches is suggested.
32 citations
TL;DR: A theoretically founded parametric model for the estimation of duration statistics for significant wave height is established in this paper, which requires information both on the distribution and the average absolute rate of change of significant wave length.
32 citations
DOI•
29 Jan 1978TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focused upon four elements of breaking wave behavior: 1) Relative breaking depth criteria 2) Breaking wave classification 3) Evaluation of the plunge distance 4) Break wave height prediction.
Abstract: This study focuses upon four elements of breaking wave behavior: 1) Relative breaking depth criteria 2) Breaking wave classification 3) Evaluation of the plunge distance 4) Breaking wave height prediction The data set is 116 waves filmed at Virginia Beach, Va., on the Atlantic U.S. coast. The cine-photographic observation technique permitted the viewer to freeze the free surface profile at successive time steps as the waves passed an upright plane grid placed perpendicular to the beach. The results indicate that: 1) While the average value of %/d^ - 0.78, there was a significant difference between plunging and nonplunging waves. 2) Neither the breaker classification of Galvin nor that of Battjes successfully discriminated between plunging and spilling breakers. 3) The distance travelled by the foreface of a plunging wave was found to be underestimated by the free fall trajectory model advanced by Galvin. The field observations show the weakness to be in the plunge time arising from neglect of the vertical velocity component. 4) The breaking wave height prediction formulation advanced by Komar and Gaughan adequately predicts the breaking wave height within the constraints of calculating deep water wave characteristics, neglecting wave refraction and frictional effects. The combined data set covers the breaker wave height between laboratory scale observations to greater than 3 m.
32 citations