Topic
Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
Papers published on a yearly basis
Papers
More filters
TL;DR: Wave data from five 12-13 MHz SeaSondes radars along the central California coast were analyzed to evaluate the utility of operational wave parameters, including significant wave height, period, and direction, and compared favorably among radars, buoys, and the CDIP model.
Abstract: Wave data from five 12-13 MHz SeaSondes radars along the central California coast were analyzed to evaluate the utility of operational wave parameters, including significant wave height, period, and direction. Data from four in situ wave buoys served to verify SeaSonde data and independently corroborate wave variability. Hourly averaged measurements spanned distance is 150 km alongshore × 45 km offshore. Individual SeaSondes showed statistically insignificant variation over 27 km in range. Wave height inter-comparisons between regional buoys exhibit strong correlations, approximately 0.93, and RMS differences less than 50 cm over the region. SeaSonde-derived wave data were compared to nearby buoys over timescales from 15 to 26 months, and revealed wave height correlations 𝑅 = 0 . 8 5 − 0 . 9 1 and mean RMS difference of 53 cm. Results showed that height RMS differences are a percentage of significant wave height, rather than being constant independent of sea state. Period and directions compared favorably among radars, buoys, and the CDIP model. Results presented here suggest that SeaSondes are a reliable source of wave information. Supported by buoy data, they also reveal minimal spatial variation in significant wave height, period, and direction in coastal waters from ~45 km × ~150 km in this region of the central California coast. Small differences are explained by sheltering from coastal promontories, and cutoff boundaries in the case of the radars.
32 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a high-resolution numerical wave tank (NWT) is established using the open-source flow solver REEF3D, which solves the governing equations of the incompressible two-phase flow on a staggered mesh and captures the interface between air and water using a high resolution level-set method.
32 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that a deep water limit for cnoidal wave shoaling exists and the nature of this limit and the behaviour of the waves close to it are analyzed.
32 citations
TL;DR: In this article, an investigation was made to test the hypothesis that the heights of ocean waves generated by a moving storm can be described by a Rayleigh distribution, and the results are from studies of wave-height data measured in the Gulf of Mexico during two hurricanes and two tropical storms.
Abstract: An investigation was made to test the hypothesis that the heights of ocean waves generated by a moving storm can be described by a Rayleigh distribution. Although chi-squared tests do not substantiate this hypothesis, the assumption of a Rayleigh distribution to describe wave heights yields results in several areas of practical importance that agree with measured data. The results are from studies of wave-height data measured in the Gulf of Mexico during two hurricanes and two tropical storms. The Rayleigh distribution appears to be justified for practical use by forecasters to calculate certain statistical parameters such as the ratio between the average of the highest 1/n waves (H\D1/n\N) or the highest wave in a group of N waves (H\Dmax\N) and the average wave height (H\Davg\N) or the root mean square wave height (H\Drms\N). This conclusion agrees with the results of other investigators who studied data gathered under different and, in general, less severe oceanographic conditions.
32 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a 3-week period on Vabbinfaru platform, North Male Atoll, Maldives, during the westerly monsoon in June 2010 was studied, where nine pressure sensors recording near continuous data for 19 days around the reef and shoreline of a small circular sand cay.
32 citations