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Wave height

About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.


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Journal ArticleDOI
Robert M. Sorensen1
TL;DR: In this article, the maximum ship-generated wave heights and the related wave half-periods were measured at various distances from the sailing line for several vessels operating at a range of speeds in the Oakland Estuary.
Abstract: Maximum ship-generated wave heights and the related wave half-periods were measured (with a step-resistance wave gage) at various distances from the sailing line for several vessels operating at a range of speeds in the Oakland Estuary. The methods and results of these measurements are reported and evaluated together with the pertinent background information on the nature of ship-generated waves.

30 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors evaluated the long-term variations of the main wave parameters using data provided by the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) based on these values, the nearshore and offshore conditions from the Black Sea were evaluated.
Abstract: In the present work the Black Sea wave climate is assessed using a total of 38 years of data (1979–2016). As a first step, the long-term variations of the main wave parameters were evaluated using data provided by the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). Based on these values, the nearshore and offshore conditions from the Black Sea were evaluated. Moreover, the Sea of Azov was also targeted in this study, since in some cases the conditions are comparable with those of the Black Sea. Going up to the present day, the regional wave climate was assessed through satellite measurements provided by the AVISO project, at the same time indicating the differences between these data and the ECMWF reanalysis dataset. In general, the conditions reported in the northwestern sector of the Black Sea seem to be more energetic, indicating more frequently the presence of rough conditions. Finally, it can be concluded that the results presented in the present study cover a broad range of applications in climatological studies and other types of research related to coastal protection.

30 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
29 Jan 1970
TL;DR: In this article, it was shown that piston-type wavemakers rarely fit the tank dimensions exactly, and an approximate evaluation indicates that the discrepancy between predicted and observed wave heights can be attributed to the effects of leakage around the piston.
Abstract: When a wavemaker generates a finite number of waves, it has been found that one of the first and one of the last waves in such a burst is considerably larger than the average A mathematical model, based on the linearized governing equations, is used for the particular problem of the waves generated by a sinusoidally moving piston-type wavemaker starting from rest Theoretical results for the magnitude of the large wave relative to the average agree fairly well with experiments, however, the actual wave height is smaller in the experiments than predicted by theory It is shown, by extending the classical wavemaker theory to second order, that finite amplitude effects do not offer an explanation However, pistons rarely fit the tank dimensions exactly, and an approximate evaluation indicates that the discrepancy between predicted and observed wave heights can be attributed to the effects of leakage around the piston.

30 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
29 Jan 2011
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of wave height and sediment size on the shore line movement and equilibrium beach profiles are discussed based on the results of experiments made by the authors and other experiments with smaller and larger scales by some researchers.
Abstract: In order to disclose the essential relationship between the beach processes and wave characteristics, two dimensional model tests are often performed for beach profile changes due to incident breaking waves normal to the beach In applying the results of such experiments to the prototype of beaches, the scale effects of waves and sediments on the beach processes with equilibrium beach profiles should necessarily be considered In this paper, as an approach to solve this problem in two dimensional beach studies, the effects of wave height and sediment size on the shore line movement and equilibrium beach profiles are discussed based on the results of experiments made by the authors and other experiments with smaller and larger scales by some researchers It has been found that the ratio of wave height to sediment diameter is a very significant factor in this problem In addition, the changes m a character of breaking waves during the time period of wave action from the beach having an initial constant slope to that with an equilibrium profile are presented

30 citations

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, in situ measurements of currents and waves were obtained with an instrumented system deployed at a low tidal zone over a neap-spring tidal period in February 1999.
Abstract: On the open shores of the Yellow Sea along Korea's Baeksu coast, a severe erosional phase in a tidal flat has been attributed to hydrodynamic processes in winter To investigate the hydrodynamic behavior of winter storms on the intertidal flat, in situ measurements of currents and waves were obtained with an instrumented system deployed at a low tidal zone over a neap–spring tidal period in February 1999 The measurements included two storm events under different tidal conditions, ie the first storm occurred during a neap tide and the second weaker storm during a spring tide Near-bottom velocities recorded during storm conditions at an elevation of 15 cm show that currents were dominantly directed alongshore with a maximum speed of 055 m/s and that the wave orbital velocity and significant wave height reached up to 1 m/s and 3 m, respectively In particular, it was observed that the magnitude of wave-related parameters was greater during the spring tide (the weaker storm) than during the neap tide, regardless of the intensity of the storms Analysis of the relationship between wave height and water depth, and temporal variations in wave velocity spectra and skewness, show that the effect of storm conditions on waves was relevant to wave-breaking processes The occurrence of harmonics in the broad-banded spectra of wave velocity demonstrates redistribution of wave energy due to the breaking of waves Wave height (Hs) was linearly related to water depth (h) fluctuating with tides, yielding a correlation coefficient of 07 (=Hs/h), which was close to the breaking limit This tidal modulation of storm waves associated with wave-breaking processes is possibly responsible for the observed discrepancy between the intensity of storms and their hydrodynamic consequences on the intertidal flat

30 citations


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Performance
Metrics
No. of papers in the topic in previous years
YearPapers
2023166
2022326
2021251
2020262
2019272
2018242