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Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this paper, a special form of two-parameter Weibull distribution for wave heights in the inundated wetland was derived from the field measurement of random waves propagating through salt marsh vegetation during a tropical storm.
30 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the attenuation of regular waves propagating in a channel through flexible vegetation is investigated, and different plant densities and arrangements are tested, as well as different submergence ratios.
Abstract: Vegetation plays a pivotal role in fluvial and coastal flows, affecting their structure and turbulence, thus having a strong impact on the processes of transport and diffusion of nutrients and sediments, as well as on ecosystems and habitats. In the present experimental study, the attenuation of regular waves propagating in a channel through flexible vegetation is investigated. Specifically, artificial plants mimicking Spartina maritima are considered. Different plant densities and arrangements are tested, as well as different submergence ratios. Measurements of wave characteristics by six wave gauges, distributed all along the vegetated stretch, allow us to estimate the wave energy dissipation. The flow resistance opposed by vegetation is inferred by considering that drag and dissipation coefficients are strictly related. The submergence ratio and the stem density, rather than the wave characteristics, affect the drag coefficient the most. A comparison with the results obtained in the case when the same vegetation is placed in a uniform flow is also shown. It confirms that the drag coefficient for the canopy is lower than for an isolated cylinder, even if the reduction is not affected by the stem density, underlining that flow unsteadiness might be crucial in the process of dissipation.
30 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, wave data derived from radar altimeters carried on four satellite missions are combined into a wave climatology for New Zealand waters, which provides extensive observations of wave conditions around New Zealand, where the paucity of measurements has previously hindered definition of the wave climate.
Abstract: Wave data derived from radar altimeters carried on four satellite missions are combined into a wave climatology for New Zealand waters. These data provide extensive observations of wave conditions around New Zealand, where the paucity of measurements has previously hindered definition of the wave climate. The data span the period 1985 to the present with the exception of a 2‐year gap in 1989–91. The spatial distribution of the long‐term mean of significant wave heights (SWH) indicates a strong latitudinal variation in the south‐west Pacific, with values of over 4 m at latitudes of 50–60°S and under 2.5 m towards the tropics. The shadowing of New Zealand is quite marked; a result of the dominant contribution of south‐westerly wave events. The annual range of the mean SWH also varies over the region; within 0.6 m in the north and 1.3 m in the south. A principal component analysis of the monthly anomalies in mean SWH identifies spatial patterns of variation. Some components vary with the local wind ...
30 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a process for computation of bathymetry in and near the surf zone, from spatially varying celerity and breakpoint location data, is described, which includes the use of three submodels: (1) a wave shoaling model (outside of the surf zones); (2) wave breaking model (defining the offshore boundary of the ocean); and (3) wave dissipation model (inside the ocean).
Abstract: A process is described for computation of bathymetry in and near the surf zone, from spatially varying celerity and breakpoint location data. The procedure involves the use of three submodels: (1) a wave shoaling model (outside of the surf zone); (2) a wave breaking model (defining the offshore boundary of the surf zone); and (3) a wave dissipation model (inside the surf zone). Influence of wave amplitude on the wave dispersion relation and celerity is included. Output includes wave height and water depth throughout the domain. In the application described here, oblique digital video served as the initial data source, although the model could be applied to data derived from other sources. Results are compared with data recorded by in situ sensors and beach profile survey data acquired by traditional means. Results suggest that water depths can be computed within 15% normalized error (equally, less than 0.1 m in biased depth error) for in and near the surf zone characterized by high wave nonlinearity.
30 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a physical model for sea wave period from altimeter data is presented, which operates with wave height and its spatial derivative and does not refer to normalized radar cross-section σ 0 measured by the altimeter.
Abstract: A physical model for sea wave period from altimeter data is presented. Physical roots of the model are in recent advances of the theory of weak turbulence of wind-driven waves that predicts the link of instant wave energy to instant energy flux to/from waves. The model operates with wave height and its spatial derivative and does not refer to normalized radar cross-section σ0 measured by the altimeter. Thus, the resulting formula for wave period does not contain any empirical parameters and does not require features of particular satellite altimeter or any calibration for specific region of measurements. A single case study illustrates consistency of the new approach with previously proposed empirical models in terms of estimates of wave periods and their statistical distributions. The paper brings attention to the possible corruption of dynamical parameters such as wave steepness or energy fluxes to/from waves when using the empirical approaches. Applications of the new model to the studies of sea wave dynamics are discussed.
30 citations