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Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, the results of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), carried out in the North Sea in 1969, are used to derive formulae for significant wave height and wave period in terms of the wind speed (assumed constant) and fetch or duration.
148 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a nearshore-bar system was surveyed periodically through a storm and the following recovery period and the data showed a very rapid response of morphology to changing wave conditions and allowed various models on bar formation to be tested.
147 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the average shape of a large crest is found to be the scaled auto-correlation function, as is shown mathematically by Lindgren [Lindgren G. 1970;41:1870-83] and Boccotti [Boccotti P. 1983;5:134-40].
146 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors compared the wave height analysis from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) wave forecasting system over a 4-yr period with independent buoy data and dependent European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeter wave height data, which were used in the wave analysis.
Abstract: Triple collocation is a powerful method to estimate the rms error in each of three collocated datasets, provided the errors are not correlated. Wave height analyses from the operational European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) wave forecasting system over a 4-yr period are compared with independent buoy data and dependent European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeter wave height data, which have been used in the wave analysis. To apply the triple-collocation method, a fourth, independent dataset is obtained from a wave model hindcast without assimilation of altimeter wave observations. The seasonal dependence of the respective errors is discussed and, while in agreement with the properties of the analysis scheme, the wave height analysis is found to have the smallest error. In this comparison the altimeter wave height data have been obtained from an average over N individual observations. By comparing model wave height with the altimeter superobservations for different v...
145 citations
01 Jul 2013
TL;DR: In this paper, a new 109 year numerical wind-wave hindcast is developed for the North Atlantic Ocean based on the 20th century atmospheric reanalysis (20CR), validated directly against data originating from voluntary observing ships and satellite altimetry in the North-east Atlantic Ocean.
Abstract: article i nfo A new 109 year numerical wind-wave hindcast is developed for the North Atlantic Ocean based on the 20th century atmospheric reanalysis (20CR). Wave results are validated directly against data originating from voluntary observing ships and satellite altimetry in the North-East Atlantic Ocean. The normalized error for yearly-mean significant wave height (Hs) is shown to be of the order of 5% for the second part of the 20th century. An indirect validation is also performed through 10 m wind speed and suggests that the accuracy of yearly-mean Hs only slightly decreases for the beginning of the 20th century. The comparison between Hs and the index of the North Atlantic Oscillation revealed that this phenomenon partly controls Hs inter-annual variability, with a positive (negative) correlation in the northeastern (southwestern) part of the study area. The analysis of model results shows an increase in Hs over the whole North Atlantic Ocean superimposed to the inter-annual variability, reaching 0.01 m.yr −1 (20 to 40% over the 20th century) north of 50°N. This increase is explained by a rise in wind speed exceeding 20% north of 50°N. The roughening in the wave climate demonstrated in this study is expected to have strong implications for the development of coastal zones and could explain the increase in erosion along the North Atlantic shorelines.
145 citations