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Wave height
About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.
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TL;DR: In this article, a coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport (COAWST) model was used to investigate atmosphere-ocean-wave interactions in November 2009 during Hurricane Ida and its subsequent evolution to Nor’Ida.
139 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a new method for calculating steep gravity waves (of less than the maximum height) was proposed, which is valid when the radius of curvature R at the crest becomes small compared with the wavelength L, or some other typical length scale.
Abstract: Most methods of calculating steep gravity waves (of less than the maximum height) encounter difficulties when the radius of curvature R at the crest becomes small compared with the wavelength L, or some other typical length scale. This paper describes a new method of calculation valid when R/L is small.For deep-water waves, a parameter e is defined as equal to q/2½c0, where q is the particle speed at the wave crest, in a frame of reference moving with the phase speed c. Hence e is of order (R/L)½. Three zones are distinguished: (1) an inner zone of linear dimensions e2L near the crest, where the flow is described by the inner solution found previously by Longuet-Higgins & Fox (1977); (2) an outer zone of dimensions O(L) where the flow is given by a perturbed form of Michell's solution for the highest wave; and (3) a matching zone of width O(L). The matching procedure involves complex powers of e.The resulting expression for the square of the phase velocity is found to be
\[
c^2 = (g/k)\{1.1931-1.18\epsilon^3\cos(2.143\ln \epsilon + 2.22)\}
\]
(see figures 5a, b), which is in remarkable agreement with independent calculations based on high-order series. In particular, the existence of turning-points in the phase velocity as a function of wave height is confirmed.Similar expressions, valid to order e3, are found for the wave height, the potential and kinetic energies and the momentum flux or impulse of the wave.The velocity field is extended analytically across the free surface, revealing the existence of branch-points of order ½, as predicted by Grant (1973).
139 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the wave energy resource of the SE Bay of Biscay was investigated using wave buoy data and a hindcast data set covering a 44-year period (1958-2001).
139 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a spectral wave model based on a numerical solution of the radiative transfer equation is used to create a synthetic data base on wave conditions within hurricanes, and an equivalent fetch for hurricane wave generation that is a function of these two parameters is proposed.
Abstract: A spectral wave model based on a numerical solution of the radiative transfer equation is used to create a synthetic data base on wave conditions within hurricanes. The results indicate that both the velocity of forward movement and maximum wind velocity within the storm play an important role in determining both the magnitude of the waves generated and the spatial distribution of these waves. An equivalent fetch for hurricane wave generation that is a function of these two parameters is proposed. This concept, combined with the standard JONSWAP fetch-limited growth relationships, provides a simple means for estimating wave conditions within hurricanes.
137 citations
TL;DR: This paper presents a pragmatic automated, simple and computationally inexpensive threshold selection method based on the distribution of the difference of parameter estimates when the threshold is changed, and applies it to a published rainfall and a new wave height data set.
135 citations