Wave height

About: Wave height is a research topic. Over the lifetime, 5920 publications have been published within this topic receiving 100257 citations.

A Fifth‐Order Stokes Theory for Steady Waves

Abstract: An alternative Stokes theory for steady waves in water of constant depth is presented where the expansion parameter is the wave steepness itself. The first step in application requires the solution of one nonlinear equation, rather than two or three simultaneously as has been previously necessary. In addition to the usually specified design parameters of wave height, period and water depth, it is also necessary to specify the current or mass flux to apply any steady wave theory. The reason being that the waves almost always travel on some finite current and the apparent wave period is actually a Dopplershifted period. Most previous theories have ignored this, and their application has been indefinite, if not wrong, at first order. A numerical method for testing theoretical results is proposed, which shows that two existing theories are wrong at fifth order, while the present theory and that of Chappelear are correct. Comparisons with experiments and accurate numerical results show that the present theory ...

Unified View of Sediment Transport by Currents and Waves. II: Suspended Transport

Abstract: The problem of suspended sediment transport in river and coastal flows is addressed. High-quality field data of river and coastal flows have been selected and clustered into four particle size classes 60-100, 100-200, 200-400, and 400-600 m. The suspended sand transport is found to be strongly dependent on particle size and on current velocity. The suspended sand transport in the coastal zone is found to be strongly dependent on the relative wave height Hs/h, particularly for current velocities in the range 0.2-0.5 m/s. The time-averaged over the wave period advection-diffusion equation is applied to compute the time-averaged sand concentration profile for combined current and wave conditions. Flocculation, hindered settling, and stratification effects are included by fairly simple expressions. The bed-shear stress is based on a new bed roughness predictor. The reference concentration function has been recalibrated using laboratory and field data for combined steady and oscillatory flow. The computed transport rates show reasonably good agreement within a factor of 2 with measured values for velocities in the range of 0.6-1.8 m/s and sediments in the range of 60-600 m. The proposed method underpredicts in the low-velocity range 0.6 m/s. A new simplified transport formula is presented, which can be used to obtain a quick estimate of suspended transport. The modeling of wash load transport in river flow based on the energy concept of Bagnold shows that an extremely large amount of very fine sediment clay and very fine silt can be transported by the flow.

Extreme Wave Height Events in NW Spain: A Combined Multi-Sensor and Model Approach.

Abstract: The Galician coast (NW Spain) is a region that is strongly influenced by the presence of low pressure systems in the mid-Atlantic Ocean and the periodic passage of storms that give rise to severe sea states. Since its wave climate is one of the most energetic in Europe, the objectives of this paper were twofold. The first objective was to characterize the most extreme wave height events in Galicia over the wintertime of a two-year period (2015–2016) by using reliable high-frequency radar wave parameters in concert with predictions from a regional wave (WAV) forecasting system running operationally in the Iberia-Biscay-Ireland (IBI) area, denominatedIBI-WAV. The second objective was to showcase the application of satellite wave altimetry (in particular, remote-sensed three-hourly wave height estimations) for the daily skill assessment of the IBI-WAV model product. Special attention was focused on monitoring Ophelia—one of the major hurricanes on record in the easternmost Atlantic—during its 3-day track over Ireland and the UK (15–17 October 2017). Overall, the results reveal the significant accuracy of IBI-WAV forecasts and prove that a combined observational and modeling approach can provide a comprehensive characterization of severe wave conditions in coastal areas and shows the benefits from the complementary nature of both systems.

Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for ocean waves: Part I, definition, calibration and validation

Abstract: New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, the swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and dissipation due to wave breaking is non-zero only when a non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced to represent the dissipation of short waves due to longer breaking waves. Several degrees of freedom are introduced in the wave breaking and the wind-wave generation term of Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from gentle swells to major hurricanes, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations yield the best overall results to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given.

Ocean Waves: The Stochastic Approach

Abstract: This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves - information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.